Jinma 184 vs 224??

[bluechip]

Per the Yangdong Y80 manual, the intake valve lash is .20-.25mm (cold) the exhaust is .25-.30mm.

The Y380 can make up to 20.5 KW at 3000 rpm, depending on application.

My 224s are labled 14.7 KW too, never even noticed before, perhaps I should order 204s with big tires and save the cost of the more expensive hood decal! Still thie is RATED POWER not PEAK HP. so by rights it is at least 22HP. (of course the 204 probably is as well...

Like JohnS says, no real noticable difference in real world use anyway.

 

[JINMA224XR]

Hey John,

Good to hear from you. You know these tractors inside and out I think. I was getting worried a little bit, cause I like my little 224 and it has been doing a whole lot more work than I could ever do manually. And I hope that I never have to sell this one. It's not too big and not too little for my size place,, it is about right. Oh by the way, the 80w90 gear oil at WalMart in the Blue Gallon Container(I think it is Super Tech), anyway, it is antifoaming, and best of all, it's cheap. That's what I used for the transmission and front Drive. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Hey Rick,

My Cooling system appears to be tight so far. On my First Chinese Tractor,, It developed a radiator leak that ultimately got the engine too hot and I had problems with my head Gasket, even after replacing the Head Gasket, it was still leaking so the Head Mechanic told me to put some Bars Leak in the cooling system. Now I use it in every water cooled motor that I have from the get go and everytime that I change the coolant. And when I got this little 224, that is one of the first things that I did, "Add a small container of Bars Leak to the cooling system. If you use Bars Leak,, I can just about guarantee that the coolant weeping will stop. But be sure to follow the directions exactly. Don't use too much and Shake the container up really good and then run the motor for a good while to make sure that it is all mixed up good in the coolant. I use the Bars Leak in the Gray Plastic container.

Hey BlueChip,

I was afraid that you would quote the books Specs. Nortrac is saying that the Books Specs are not correct. And I got an email from Terry at Tractor Outlet that says the books values gets the engine too hot. My Dealer also confirmed the new valve setting. But I have yet to see anything official in writing from either Jinma or YangDong. We had a very long discussion about this under the Y380T/385 ENGINE HEADING @ the NYCTO FORUM. You might find that discussion interesting reading.

Unless I learn something more, I am going to follow JohnS advice and check the valve lash to see where it is at, before I make any adjustments. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

Have a nice day,
Joe /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[bluechip]

Joe,
I typically run my valves a touch on loose (bigger number) anyway, bad things happen fast if they dont transfer heat to the head. Perfomance can be slightly reduced if the gap is too much, not as much lift and duration, so I would humbly disagree with the increased gap increasing performance, unless it is by reducing poor performance caused by the valves not seating fully at higher rpm. I will say that I have always thought the clearances the Yangdong factory recommends are a little tight... I'm kinda weird I guess, I still like to "feel" the rocker arm free movement and I like to hear solid lifters click a little.

 

[greg_g]

Valve lash specifications start with the type of metal or alloy from which the valves and pushrods are manufactured. Each metal/alloy has a known expansion factor relative to temperature. Valve lash (gap) is set to compensate for valve stems and pushrods getting longer as the engine heats up. As a rule of thumb, the cheaper the metal, the more it expands, the wider the gap. High end stuff (racing alloys/sodium filled/etc) expands less - smaller gap.

So the valve lash on a cold engine starts out roughly equal to the amount of expansion anticipated in the pushrods and valve stems within engineered operating parameters. Performance and/or economy are of secondary consideration when arriving at the final valve lash spec for any given engine application.

That's why - short of a printing error - I pretty much go by what's in the engine manual. That number came from the design engineers for a reason.

Chip, if you think Y380/Y385 specs are tight, you'd get real nervous doing a valve adjust on my Mercedes turbo-diesel. The intakes get dogged all the way down to 0.10mm

//greg//

 

[JINMA224XR]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Joe,
I typically run my valves a touch on loose (bigger number) anyway, bad things happen fast if they dont transfer heat to the head. I will say that I have always thought the clearances the Yangdong factory recommends are a little tight... I'm kinda weird I guess, I still like to "feel" the rocker arm free movement and I like to hear solid lifters click a little. )</font>

Hey BlueChip,

Sounds Good, Better a little bit too Loose, than a little bit too tight. /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif

Pretending the "woman" that told me ,"That I was deaf and that I couldn't hear what she was saying", is correct. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Which Feeler Gauge do you use for the Intake Valve Lash and the Exhaust Valve Lash on a YangDong Y380T Engine? /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Have A Nice Day,
Joe /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif