The Warning Lights on my JD1050 do not work. By warning lights I mean Oil Pressure, Temperature, and Alternator. Since none of them have ever worked for me I thought it might be a common problem for all three. I have tried to read a schematic but am pretty much lost as to how to use it. Is there a common issue with JD1050 warning light? Would anyone have a suggestion as to where to start. Thanks.
JD1050 Warning Lights trouble
- Thread starter garry
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- john deere 1050
radios1
Elite Member
one contact on the bulbs have to go to power, and the other contact goes to the sensors, which gives the bulbs their grounds, and makes them light up when needed.. if you post the schematic, more help can be given..
radios1
Elite Member
I'd use a LED replacement bulb. they'll last nearly forever. you can get the GE53 replacement here. https://www.amazon.com/YOOSEN-Ceram...=B079P1FNJG&psc=1&refRID=JMZA56WPNP15X53CM024
WranglerX
Super Member
Check bulbs for burn out and or check fuse(s)....
Dale
Dale
TimberHole
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2017
- Messages
- 524
- Location
- Missouri
- Tractor
- JD9504WD w/ 75 Loader, JD345, Bobcat S150
Like everyone says, bulbs likely burned out. As an example your oil pressure light should come on when the key is turned on. It only goes out after the tractor is started and the engine has pressure. Same for the alternator if I remember right. I’m feeling too lazy to go check the book.
I feel very embarrassed. I went to test the bulbs and discovered the wire to the warning light console was disconnected. Now the Oil light and Charging light come on when the key is on. The temperature light still does not work. The bulb is good. The Temperature sender has one post. How do I test the sender? Thanks to all who encouraged me to check the bulbs.
WranglerX
Super Member
IF temperature indicator is just a light, its probably an thermal activated sender to turn on light.... IF you put a ground on the wire at the sender and lamp comes on, you will probably have to test the sender by removing it from block and heating it (pan of boiling water) and testing with ohm meter....Probably have to apply heat to sender to get it to close internal contacts if it is just a "snap" action off/on .... If it were a gauge to indicate temperature it probably would show change in resistance as sender heats up... A lot of how to test and what results will depend on design of sender....
Dale
TimberHole
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2017
- Messages
- 524
- Location
- Missouri
- Tractor
- JD9504WD w/ 75 Loader, JD345, Bobcat S150
Just ground he wire at the sending unit. Light should come on when that wire is grounded. Those senders apretty cheap. If it’s old I would just put in a new sender after verifying the circuit is good.