JD Power SSQA upgrade

[Jim Timber]

I decided that I'm just lazy enough to do this modification. :laughing:

After finding out the lift links on the 3pt were partially cast iron, I was extra nervous about what on God's green Earth they made the cast actuator arms out of for my SSQA. So after several spark tests (couldn't convince myself what I was seeing was right - high carbon?), and pinging with a hammer (sounds like a quality anvil when thunked), I jumped in and started welding up the needed additional eyelets for the cylinder.



Of course, I didn't just whip up some tabs and have at it. I had quite a bit of measuring and checking and tacking and checking, etc. But it was easier than some adaptations I've done. So after fighting with some stress cracking (the latch is a massive hunk of steel and weld cracks are common), I got both of them done and painted up.



The only things left are to get some roll pins for my actuator cylinder clevis' pins, and reconfigure the hydraulics on my boom.

More pics when I get more done.

 

[Xfaxman]

Interesting :thumbsup:

 

[Jim Timber]

 

[Jim Timber]

Still need some fab work for the diverter to run it, but the tractor's back in action.

 

[Jim Timber]

Just need to button up the hose restraints, and finish wiring the diverter.

Started raining, so this is it for today.

 

[Btown]

Looking good

 

[Jim Timber]

Thanks Btown!

Still need to wire in the second diverter, and weld on some hose clamps, but it's real close to being operational.

The first diverter is for my 3rd function and passes through the second when the 2nd isn't energized. I'll have a toggle to trigger the 2nd diverter so I still need to use the button and trigger the 3rd function diverter to open/close the SSQA latches. Once hooked up, throw the toggle off and there's no way to accidentally unlatch the bucket/attachment.

 

[Btown]

Thanks Btown! Still need to wire in the second diverter, and weld on some hose clamps, but it's real close to being operational. The first diverter is for my 3rd function and passes through the second when the 2nd isn't energized. I'll have a toggle to trigger the 2nd diverter so I still need to use the button and trigger the 3rd function diverter to open/close the SSQA latches. Once hooked up, throw the toggle off and there's no way to accidentally unlatch the bucket/attachment.

I like the toggle switch idea to avoid accidents or mishaps. Looks like it will work good when you wrap it up.

 

[dstig1]

Maybe make the toggle a momentary and then it would be all but impossible for you to accidentally trigger it or forget you left it on. Looks nice, but I am curious to see more pics on how you did it. I wonder if there will be any leakage/creep through the second diverter that may cause you trouble over time? I keep getting the feeling that both tractors I have had with diverters had such a leak from the get-go.

:thumbsup:

 

[SSdoxie]

My diverter on my hydraulic SSQA has some leakage but any leakage through the diverter is equal to both side of the piston cylinder, base end/extend side has more push force at same pressure than rod end so cylinder stays extended, locked on tight.

 

[Jim Timber]

My diverter on my hydraulic SSQA has some leakage but any leakage through the diverter is equal to both side of the piston cylinder, base end/extend side has more push force at same pressure than rod end so cylinder stays extended, locked on tight.

This is exactly the scenario I envisioned too.

The other aspect I'd considered is that maximal force would only be applied while clamping, so as long as the cylinders are all phased the same (extend retract on the same ports of the diverter), the seepage would only be seen to further clamp the levers down, not to open them when the lids retracted. Any max PSI on retract would be momentary at best and not a concern.

As for Dave's suggestion of the momentary switch; the toggle I have is illuminated with a red tip. I'm pretty sure I'll be mounting it on the base of the joystick, but I haven't put any holes in yet. It'll be very easy to "attach" and lock it out as a matter of practice. I still need the primary diverter momentary switch depressed before anything goes to that secondary valve (aside from seepage - which I've found to be minor after a year's use).

Got some T-bolt band clamps today and shortened them to be the right size for my diverter bracket. The Home Depot screw clamps weren't strong enough to put the kind of force I want on the diverter bracket - the T-bolts will be much better. Eventually, I'll probably weld on a bracket, but until I get this operational and in use for a while, I'm not willing to commit that much to the cause. I will be welding on the hose clamps to keep the lines out of harms way around the timing rod and SSQA plates, but that's not a big deal if I need to move them later.

 

[dstig1]

Was just a couple thoughts from my experience... As they say Keep or Toss!

I was able to reuse the bolt holes for the tubing guard for my 3rd function mount. Maybe an option for you if you have something similar? I just need to match the thread with longer bolts. I don't have a pic of this from the backside, but I bet you get the gist.

 

[Jim Timber]

My hoses are hard lines across the top of the support tube on the loader and are only zip tied on. No brackets to utilize, or I would've done it when I put the 3rd function on.

 

[Jim Timber]

There's a lot of room on the joystick tower with nothing on the inside aside from the linkages (which are central to the column).

So if I put a switch down on the back side here, it'd be out of the way, yet easily accessible.

 

[Jim Timber]

Needs a little correction for an over-center issue on the right side (thus the bungee), but otherwise, it works!

Shop built Power SSQA v1.0 - YouTube

 

[Xfaxman]

:thumbsup:

 

[Jim Timber]

After 17 years, my Hobart Hood's battery died after spending the winter in my conex box. I suppose it felt neglected since I got a new one last year.

At any rate, I only put 4 tacks per plate since I was running blind with the baby HH125. If I'd been at home, I could've cooked in the 4 corners by sound and never thought about it again.

After about 6 hours work, they're still holding. I got a new battery for the hood and will finish these up tomorrow.

 

[JJZ 109]

All I know is that I really like my power Bob Tach. People can make fun all they want. I change attachment and never leave the seat.

 

[Jim Timber]

I used it twice yesterday and I'm already glad I have it.

Were I to do it again, I'd pony up for individual cylinders. Not because of the geometry being so close to binding if one side latches first, but just for ease of build. This is a Bobcat quicktach cylinder, so it's made for this configuration. Using dual 4"s or something would just be easier to get the eye tabs set up.

I need to correct a slight over-travel on the right locking lever and I won't need the bungee anymore. It might not even matter when hooking up, but without any resistance on the left latch, that side slams down and there isn't enough off-center force on the right to get it to toggle down so it binds.

 

[downsizingnow48]

I wanted a SSQA for my B21, had to make it. Starting from scratch, it was easier for me to use two small cylinders to operate the pins than to make two over-center hand latches. I thought it was possibly overkill at the time. But in use, it is very handy indeed.