JD F935 - PTO won't engage

[canucklehead]

I got it fixed today....sort of...I hope/think. Nothing electrical, all mechanical. Not sure if that's better or worse (was probably easier to troubleshoot anyways). The tension adjustment springs were broken, along with the "indicator". I only had one washer behind the Indicator. it was elongated. I think there is supposed to be a washer behind each of the 2 holes on the indicator, according to JD parts diagram.

Here are the broken pieces:

Here is a pic of the repair. I tensioned the springs EXACTLY to 21mm long, as per JD repair manual. I did the 2 side ones first, and then the bottom one...again as per the JD manual. Have a good look at how close the shaft is to the bracket. I'll ask more about that after the next/last pic I post.

This pic is trying to show that at the top/left area of the bracket, there is a second hole not being used, very close to the smaller shiny metal nut. I'm wondering if that hole were used for bracket, if that might give shaft a bigger/better hole to run through, so it's not rubbing bracket.(The other bolts may not line up if I do that though). ALSO, I noticed the bottom spring/adjustment had a washer on the back side, against the bracket. That washer seems to shift a little when the spring is tensioned. Maybe washer is too big??

I'm also confused about the JD parts diagram. They show a belt guard (part #38 on their diagram). In the repair manual, they don't show this guard at all when they show several pics of the PTO and tensioner. I never had a guard. it's expensive too. Maybe it came later, as an option?

Last: The parts diagram shows the "bracket" (part # 9B), then 2 washers (1 to go over each hole, part #33B), then the "indicator" (part #13), etc... YET their repair manual pics of the same set up don't seem to show the washers between the bracket and indicator. In my case, I had one washer on the upper hole between bracket and indicator; it's the elongated, worn out washer in my first pic. There was no washer on the lower hole, so I installed a new one for both holes.

It's frustrating the parts diagram doesn't match the pictures in their repair manual.

Any ideas on how to align this shaft better? It doesn't seem to wobble, but I can see evidence of rubbing on the shaft and bracket.

 

[pmsmechanic]

If you replace the belts then the shaft should once again be more to the center of the hole which in turn should provide better alignment.

 

[canucklehead]

the belts appear fine, no cracking. How will new belts help re-align? Are you thinking these ones are too stretched and causing the bad angle?

I also see in the JD manual they talk about aligning PTO, shimming, etc.., and I felt out of my comfort zone going through the procedure they described.

Not sure how much of a factor this is, but my main driveshaft from motor had an awful angle (I talked about that in an earlier post). The rubber isolator had broken and when I replaced it, the new rubber isolator looked twisted. I did some research and discovered the motor mounts wear on these, causing the bad angle. I shimmed the front motor mounts with 2 washers per side, and it improved my angle there so that the isolator wasn't twisted. I wonder if it might have caused this PTO angle to be off??

 

[pmsmechanic]

You brought up something that I might not have thought of. If your rear motor isolators are also shot that would also do what your picture shows. Meaning that the shaft is just about touching the bearing support or whatever it's called. It might be a good idea to replace all of the isolators so that the ,motor sits up where it's supposed to.

Regarding the belts I just thought if they were worn then that would also let the shaft sit at a bad angle. I'll look at mine in the morning and make sure I know what I'm talking about.

Maybe all you need to do is shim the rear isolators to improve the rear angles.