JD 770

[crashz]

Hi everybody!

Got some questions regarding my tractor that I hope you guys can help with:

1) I've been using the machine pretty hard on the weekends and she's been performing great. But I think I need tires. By tracing the VIN, I've discovered a manufacture date of 1989 and I'm positive these tires have been on since new (I knew the previous owner). I currently have turf tires, and they work great, but they aren't very durable. In fact in I haven't put over 100 hrs on the machine yet (927 total) and I've had to put tubes in all of them so far. And the left rear is leaking again. And all are very weather cracked. So with the rough cutting and loader work, I'd like to upgrade to R4s for the durability. Are they availible for the 770? I know the 790's have them, but heard that they are not interchangable. BTW if I need new rims to accomodate the R4s, that is fine. My rims are corroding badly around the valve stem and may be part of the problem.

2) I have the model 70 loader and it works well. I'd like a little more lift height, but over all its strong enough and not too much for the tractor. But the bucket is really shallow. So much so that it has very little curl back. Are the new buckets interchangable?

3) What would you guys recommend for a backhoe for this? I'd like a 7, but the price is steep for new. Any budget minded backhoes availible?

Thanks!

Leo

 

[RobS]

Not absolutely sure but the 770 and 790 take the same tires/wheels. I believe you will need new rims for R4s. The 70 loader is not a quick detach bucket where the subsequent loaders are. I doubt the buckets off the new loaders will fit. If I recall though, there were a couple of bucket choices for the 70, maybe a different one can be found.

The only other backhoe choices will be aftermarket and likely three point mount instead of subframe. I picked up a lightly used 7 for my 790 which was a deal. If you have time, check around with dealers/Fleabay. They do occasionally come up for sale.

 

[irwin]

Leo; got the same tractor, bought new R4 tires that work with my MFWD (you didn't post if you have 2wd or ....), I did not need to buy new rims,(rims were a little rough, but did some work on them when the tires were off) (had turfs originally) I also bought a backhoe and I use it a lot!!

If you'd like I can give you specific info..try clicking on my avatar and check out "posts started by" ..and/or you can PM me ..

I'm happy with the 770, it's done more than I thought possible with only 23 1/2 horse power..

The 790 and the 770 are the same in many ways..see this..http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...0-770-mfwd-ratio-r4.html?highlight=mfwd+ratio
good luck..

 

[madpogue]

How bad is "badly corroded"? If it's all surface rust, you MIGHT get away with having it blasted off, and repainting them; the tire swap would be a good opportunity to do that.

 

[crashz]

Thanks Guys!

Sorry, I should have indicated it has the MFWD.

The front rims could use a coat of paint but otherwise are fine, The back rims are fine except for the hole at the valve stem. The holes are slightly enlarged due to the rust. I have tubes, so its not a problem now, but I doubt I can eliminate the problem and I'll have to run tubes in brand new tires. I read about someone here welding a patch over the holes and drilling out new ones on the opposite side, but I can barely weld. I'd never get it air tight.

Irwin:

Thanks!, Thats exactly the setup I'm going for! I'll check out your posts today!

 

[crashz]

Rather than starting another thread, I'm going to continue this one.

Gotta a little problem that I'm hoping to solve before it gets to be an expensive one. I've owned the tractor for about 3 years, but haven't given much thought to the hydraulics. This weekend I tried and tried to get the filter off (below the foot rest on the left side) and since its nearly 20 years old and the original filter, it doesn't want to budge.

Anyone have any ideas to get this off? I've twisted it so hard the the mount is loose on the bracket, but still can't get it to budge.

 

[Superduper]

I change oil on everything quite religiously so I have not had that problem the past 20 years but one such similar problem comes to mind which is a used car that I bought where the filter just did not want to budge. I was told by various mechanics that in situations such as these, you need the "universal" oil filter wrench. I later found out that they were referring to huge Channelock pliers. I did use it and it mangled the filter up real good but yes, it did finally come off. I still have that car to this day ('69 Stingray). In your case, if the filter is attached to a bracket rather than directly on the block/immovable object, then it just got a little harder.

 

[madpogue]

A strap wrench, maybe? Something like this? Thing is, you can get more and more leverage, but (if I'm reading your post right) if the base is coming loose, you'll still need something to hold the base. Perhaps one strap wrench on the filter and one on the base would do it.

 

[crashz]

I like the idea of two strap wrenches. it would distribute the forces to only the mating surfaces and will probably work. Thanks!

 

[irwin]

I like the idea of two strap wrenches. it would distribute the forces to only the mating surfaces and will probably work. Thanks!

Hi Leo;
It's sometimes amazing how stuck-together parts can get!! If the belt style strap wrenches don't get it off, I'd try a metal large oil filter strap wrench and a large channel-lock plier. The strap on the filter and hold tight the mounting base with the channel-lock.

(the belt style straps work for some situations, but I haven't had any luck with them on really stuck pieces. The plastic handles aren't strong enough..JMHO..)

Let us know how ya made out..