JD 6150R hydraulic hose blows out and return blows out

[Nsewell]

I have a 2013 6150R . We bought it used, we cut stalks with it every fall with a 15' bushhog. the first fall it worked fine. but last fall it started spitting the hose out on the 3rd remote and blows the return hose off the bottom of the remote and sprays every where. Sometimes it spits all three hoses out when you push the 3rd lever. if I push it all the way to float some times it doesn't do it. we replaced the quick connect yesterday but no changes. I can put the hose in any either of the other remotes and it works fine. any suggestions?

 

[MORRISONSTEEL]

So I could be wrong here but sounds like you have mechanical scv's (so no command center or intelligent total equipment control). There is still 3 different scv choices for this tractor. I don't know if it applies to the 200 and 300 series but I believe that 100 series the pressure side of the cylinder needs to be plugged into the lower hole and return to the upper. And I could have it completely backwards due to a valve in 200 and 300 that prevents leakage when retracting under no power. But regardless the op manual does state that for cylinders pressure goes into the bottom. What position setting is you scv at?

 

[Nsewell]

The lower hole. And I think your asking about the 3 position dial on top of valve, it is on the position with the cylinder on it

 

[MORRISONSTEEL]

So you are putting the pressure side (cylinder extend) into the lower hole? First statement says blowing return out of lower hole which would be backwards. If you have the scv selection on the cylinder picture that is lock function # 2. So the idea that it holds the lever in the position you leave it until pressure is reached (cylinder reaches it's stop). This was only available on 300, 350 & 450 valves. Maybe try the standard no lock function (looks like a loader bucket) and see if the results are different while making sure pressure is in the bottom. After that I am out of ideas.

 

[MORRISONSTEEL]

You could also do a pressure adjustment on the valve. The steps are lined out in the operators manual, no need for a tech manual to complete and it is related to the utilization of the "lock" functions.

 

[Nsewell]

The cylinder has only one hose as it folds the right side up and it is in the lower hole. The hose I'm calling the return is probly called something else but is the small line coming out of the bottom of the valve and tees together with the other two lines coming from the other valves and running back to the transmission. Maybe 1/4" hose. I have tried adjusting pressure as prescribed in the op manual but it does not change. And does not make any difference at all. I have tried slowing it down all the way where it won't move then slowly turn the knob while pushing the lever forward and as soon as it starts to move it blows out. Some times blowing the other 2 hoses out of the other valves (remotes)

 

[jd110]

You said you replaced the quick connect. Did you only replace the one with the hose plugged in? Does the hose pop out when raising or lowering? If it pops out when lowering, then you need to replace the upper coupler.

 

[Nsewell]

It only has one hose. It plugs in bottom hole. I replaced the bottom quick connect.

 

[Zebrafive]

The cylinder has only one hose as it folds the right side up and it is in the lower hole. The hose I'm calling the return is probly called something else but is the small line coming out of the bottom of the valve and tees together with the other two lines coming from the other valves and running back to the transmission. Maybe 1/4" hose. I have tried adjusting pressure as prescribed in the op manual but it does not change. And does not make any difference at all. I have tried slowing it down all the way where it won't move then slowly turn the knob while pushing the lever forward and as soon as it starts to move it blows out. Some times blowing the other 2 hoses out of the other valves (remotes)

Those hoses are "leak off" hoses that return to the transmission. Some quick couplers have two sets of hoses. The ones at the end of the coupler feed a plastic catch bottle, since that oild could be contaminated with dirt.

 

[LD1]

Would like to help but not familiar with that model. Pictures are worth a thousand words though

 

[Nsewell]

We finially got mechanic out he replaced the top quick connect too and it works.

 

[RancherGuy]

We finially got mechanic out he replaced the top quick connect too and it works.

I just found this thread. Seems that I am in the same situation. I have a 6105R with 3 pairs of eSCV. From the repair manual, it seems that these might be 450 Series.

Looking at the SCVs, I see a cast iron block, then two coupler ports coming off the block. The coupler ports have the drain tubes or hoses. Are you saying that the replacement is of the couplers alone? Don't touch the cast iron block?

 

[jd110]

Yes, replace couplers only. I would go ahead and change all of them. The new replacements are now different and causes problems if at least a pair is changed at once. The new ones are now improved and have eliminated the drain hoses closest to valve block.

 

[RancherGuy]

Yes, replace couplers only. I would go ahead and change all of them. The new replacements are now different and causes problems if at least a pair is changed at once. The new ones are now improved and have eliminated the drain hoses closest to valve block.

Thank you for the confirmation.