JD 4300 Battery Replace

[Runner]

You might take a look at Exide batteries at TSC. I recently found one for my 2520 there that had the correct tabs to match my hold-down clamps. The CCA rating is a little less than the factory battery, but it seems to be working out OK. Price was around $90.

Tried Walmart first, but didn't see anything there that would work with the hold-down clamps.

 

[dfkrug]

Since the battery failure seemed odd as I recently put about 40-hours on the clock over the past 2 - 3 weeks; I'm going to pull the alternator and have it tested in case the regulator or some sort of other sparky issue exists in it.

Before you pull it out, do this simple test: check the voltage of the
battery with the tractor off. Start the tractor and check it again while
it is running. Check it at the same terminals each time. In rough terms,
the running test should show several volts higher than the first test. You
can also test the voltage a 3rd time after the tractor has been running
a while (the initial charge to replace lost charge for starting the tractor
has been complete).

 

[brohloff]

Thanks for all the replies folks. JD dealer here was $109 (22NF) but went with a 51R Energizer from Sam's for $58. 495CCA's vs JD's 500CCA's so a wash there.
Both are maintenance free types.
Made a top hold down using two 9" long threaded rods into the existing floor hold down nuts and a square u shaped bar from my junk box that fit over the battery perfectly even the holes for the threaded rods. Solid as a rock and even looks OEM. Also the 51R is 1/2" narrower (4 3/4 vs 5 1/4) than the 22NF so installed the 51R gives 3/4 spacing to the radiator vs the 22NF OEM's 1/4" fit for a little better cooling air flow and since the battery blocks about 25% of the front radiator surface more clearance is better.
Good for another 10 yrs???
b...

 

[mjncad]

Before you pull it out, do this simple test: check the voltage of the
battery with the tractor off. Start the tractor and check it again while
it is running. Check it at the same terminals each time. In rough terms,
the running test should show several volts higher than the first test. You
can also test the voltage a 3rd time after the tractor has been running
a while (the initial charge to replace lost charge for starting the tractor
has been complete).

Dave:

You and a friend of mine I talked to this evening are thinking alike regarding the on-tractor test. This morning I pulled the alternator, which was less than 30-minutes to do, even with the loader on.

The Deere dealer I bought my battery from couldn't put it on their alternator test machine because they didn't have a test plug to fit that Denso alternator. OK, I'm more than halfway to the next Deere dealer, same story...no plug to fit it. I tried the local NAPA store, and no go as the part number didn't match anything in their database.

Since I still have it out, I'm going to call a Denver based company that deals with alternators, starters, etc and see if they can put it on their test machine. If not, then I fall back to your suggestion.

 

[dfkrug]

Since I still have it out, I'm going to call a Denver based company that deals with alternators, starters, etc and see if they can put it on their test machine. If not, then I fall back to your suggestion.

If your ND alternator is bad, the regulator, the rectifier, and the brushes
are all modular and available from a 3rd party source for about $30-35 each.

 

[Johndeere3720]

I just replaced the battery for the 3720 a few weeks ago. It lasted 5 years, pretty good for a tractor that is used daily. I put in a new Intersate battery and it has started ever since. I did however find that it is WAY easier to remove the grill guard to put the battery in.

 

[mjncad]

I took the alternator in to an automotive/industrial shop that specializes in alternators, starters, etc.

The technician had a two word response regarding my alternator, "Its toast." They didn't try and sell me a new one, so I have little reason to think they were BS'ing me. He told me that it only put out 0.7-volts.

Since the alternator has only 600-hours on it, and the battery went bad at the same time; I have a feeling this is yet another Easter egg leftover from a nearby lightning strike last month.

The Deere dealer didn't have rebuilt alternators available for this model, and the new 55-amp unit is coming in from Moline. Supposedly it will be here Monday.

Although I'd rather not spend the money; I don't need the distraction of tearing the old one apart, diagnosing it per the shop manual, ordering parts, etc, etc, etc in hopes of getting it to work.

 

[dfkrug]

The Deere dealer didn't have rebuilt alternators available for this model, and the new 55-amp unit is coming in from Moline. Supposedly it will be here Monday.

Sounds like you may have ordered one. I believe the OEM NipponDenso
alternator is only 40A and about $320 from JD. I see plenty of them for
sale new (eBay) for $150.

You can also upgrade to 55A or so with an automotive ND alternator,
for $50 or so used. Swapping an automotive unit may require conversion
to a V-belt pulley from a multi-rib. At least the newer JDs have a 3-wire
connector.

But that's a subject of another thread....

 

[mjncad]

Dave:

Yep, I ordered it and it was about $20 more than the 40-amp unit.

I could have tried adapting other alternators; but I've got enough unfinished projects started without adding another one.

In this case, it made more sense to spend the bucks to get it running again in a relatively timely fashion.