Rotary Cutter JD 413 Rotary cutter gearbox and clutch question

[PerryWhite]

I've got a JD 413 rotary cutter with a clutch assembly.
I bought a new shield assembly for the clutch as I broke the original shield last fall. My question is what do I have to do to
remove the clutch assembly from the gear box shaft so I
can install the new shield? On the picture you can see the four
bolts that hold the shield and you can see that I have removed
the center bolt from the shaft. Do I need to remove the other stud to the right of the center bolt hole? Also, the JD parts book says that the other stud is actually a bolt. However I have already removed the nut and all that is remaining is the stud. How do I remove the stud without marring it or should I just use vice grips and plan on replacing it?
Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[PerryWhite]

I did a little more research work and found that the other
part is referred to as a pin assembly. It sells for about $12.
I can't figure out why this part would cost so much.
Do I drive this pin assembly out with a punch? Does this
pin assembly fit into a notch on the gearbox shaft?
I probably need to stop by my dealer to talk with a mechanic.
I tried calling them but waited on hold for about 15 minutes
so I gave up.

 

[Old_Hickory]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( <font color="blue"> It sells for about $12.I can't figure out why this part would cost so much. </font> )</font>

John Deere makes a fortune on their parts,I have had to buy several parts for my JD 4400. I had to replace the PTO shaft on my tractor(from a problem I had earler this year with a PTO skidder winch) The PTO shaft was right at $120. /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif Talk about getting the shaft. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[em14]

I have a feeling that you may need to take the Clutch off the gear box input shaft. It looks like you just remove that one bolt (pin) and side the clutch and PTO shaft off as a unit. You may need to take a drift pin and drive it out but I would hope that at you need to do is to loosen the nut but leave it on to priotect the treads, and tap it out with your hammer. If the shield is attached to the gear box housing with the 4 bolts then just remove those 4 bolts without removing the input shaft (pinion) and attach the shield and re attach the clutch by reversing the removal process. I think that that is all you must do.
Leo

 

[B2400]

The pin which you have already removed is the shear pin and the other bolt appears to be a pinch bolt to keep clutch assembly from wobbling on shaft. loosen pinch bolt and lube shaft with WD40,Liquid Wrench or Kroil( best penetrating oil I've ever used!). The shaft has probably rusted inside clutch hub so you might have to use a little persuasion (dead blow mallet) to drive it off of gear box shaft.

 

[KiotiJohn]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The pin which you have already removed is the shear pin and the other bolt appears to be a pinch bolt to keep clutch assembly from wobbling on shaft. )</font> I am under the impression that a clutch is used in lieu of a shear pin. Am I mistaken? thanks, John

 

[PerryWhite]

I've been out of commission a few days with a nasty GI virus so I am just getting around to follow up on this.
B2400,
You're right about the pin being used to keep the clutch assembly from wobbling. I finally found out that it was a tapered pin assembly. The manual I have is for a 413/513/613 and the manual is in error as it says the tapered pin is only used on the 613. Well it is used my 413 in spite of what the manual says. I think that Kioti John is right about the
clutch being in lieu of a shear pin. The bolt holds the clutch assembly on and the pin keeps it from wobbling. Here is a picture of the pin assembly after I removed it.

 

[PerryWhite]

Here is a picture of the unit disassembled.

 

[B2400]

The clutch would be your primary "fuse", but I would still use a lower grade bolt to act as a shear pin in that location. I'm guessing that is the location for a shear pin if the mower were not equipped with a slip clutch.

 

[KiotiJohn]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I would still use a lower grade bolt to act as a shear pin in that location. )</font> That makes sense. Probably a good idea, and that original bolt looks as though it was softer graded. John

 

[PerryWhite]

I guess I am not explaining myself very well. The picture that I attached is not a picture of the bolt, it is a picture of the tapered pin. ($12 part). That tapered pin goes through
the clutch hub and is offset from the center line of the gearbox shaft. If one were to take a closer look at the picture, the taper can be seen. The taper seats into the slight depression that
is machined all the way around the gear box shaft at it's very end. I originally could not figure out how to remove the pin because I did not know that it was tapered.
As for the bolt, (and I am reusing the original) I think that
I will stick with what JD put on as original equipment. If I
try to second guess JD engineers by turning it into a shear pin and it would break , the whole clutch assembly would come off of the end of the gear box shaft and I would prefer not to have that expensive clutch assembly flying around on the end of a PTO shaft.

I have included a screen capture of the
bolt specs from the JD parts web site. They refer to that
socket head bolt as grade 12.9.

My original purpose for starting this thread was to figure
out how to get the tapered pin removed and not redesign
JD parts.

I hope that all of the grief that I have went through
might help someone else who might be faced with
the same situation in the future.

 

[JeffSchott]

You can also get a yoke that has a straight bolt that would not change your set up It would just be easier to remove.

 

[rcmike]

I am no expert but I think that tapered pin keeps the pto shaft from flying off if the other bolt/shear pin breaks. That is similar to the way the shaft on my JD MMM is exept it has a key instead of a bolt.

 

[EricL]

I am in agreement with rcmike. It looks as if the clutch fails the bolt that goes through the shaft will shear and the tapered bolt will keep the clutch from coming off the shaft.