JD 4100 proper ballest weight for 410 loader

[acs55812]

I got a 4100 with 410 loader (52" bucket??) this past summer and would like to know if there is a proper weight that I should look for as a ballest (is that spelled correctly?) weight.

I have R-1 (Ag.) tires and plan on using this for "clean-up" snow removal (after the 1972 Blazer/plow) and would also like to know if tire chains would be a good idea or not necessary.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

Dan

 

[ducati996]

Hi Dan,

I have the same machine. If you had the dealer supply the tractor with the loader, hopefully they supplied both manuals (Loader & tractor), all ballast spec's are in them. The ballast box should have been included and typically ballast can be defined as total weight. This can be a combination of wheel weights, loaded tires and a 3 pt attachment. I suggest total being around 1,000- 1,100 lbs...that could be all in the ballast box, or lets say 800 lbs in the ballast box, and 300 wheel weights. See how that can be worked out? If you are not lifting heavy material, you can go less using a 3 pt attachment, like a rear blade in winter.
Wheel weights like EZ weights are a real good choice over loading tires. I have loaded R4's (about 300 lbs each) and the draw back's are acceptable, but if you get a leak /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
Chains depend only on how severe the inclines will be...steep inclines and you will need it because of ice. Otherwise it does very well without them

Good luck with the machine, its a great one at that !!

Ducati

 

[keeney]

I have 250 lb of wheel weight and another 900 lb on the 3-pt. on my 4100 with the 410 loader. Its actually probably a bit too much. Sometimes, when trying to dig from the top of a slope, the machine stalls trying to back up the slope with all that weight (and a full bucket).

I have the 60" bucket, and when its over-filled, the loader stalls before the back wheels get light.

I was thinking of taking the wheel weights off to make it lighter for mowing, but will leave them on for the winter when using the front blade or front snowblower.

- Rick

 

[790guy]

Forget the ballast box, weights etc. Unless you want to jerk around taking on and off and spending money. for what that box would cost you can get your wheels filled with Rim Guard or calciun if you choose. Rim guard is heavier and would run about 150 bucks. this would add about 600-700 lbs. Rim guard is beet juice that won't corrode your rims...
If you need exercise go for box's and weights....

 

[ducati996]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Forget the ballast box, weights etc. Unless you want to jerk around taking on and off and spending money. for what that box would cost you can get your wheels filled with Rim Guard or calciun if you choose. Rim guard is heavier and would run about 150 bucks. this would add about 600-700 lbs. Rim guard is beet juice that won't corrode your rims...
If you need exercise go for box's and weights....
)</font>

There always a trade off with filled tires and the two concerns are dealing with flats and corrision (CaCl) but that can be minimized when using tubes. He should have got the ballast box included, so its easier to move around when you put it on a dolley. But filled tires are the most cost effective and in this case with the 4100 or 4110 using R4 tires the weight comes out to 300 lbs with CaCl. He is using R1's which are considerably thinner and will be less heavy filled then R4's...
Ballast boxes come in handy when the lifting limit are reached

Ducati

 

[acs55812]

Since this is used as a lawnmower also, I am looking for something that can be removed for that.
I don't think the filled tires would hold much weight with the type of tires I have.

I am still thinking ballest box or some type of TPH connection of a weight (just not sure if its smart to spend the $200 for the John Deere box) or use some "homemade" like 30 inch sections of railroad track that add up to about 7-800 lbs (I am thinking thats about the right weight from what I see in the answers here so far).

I have an option to get a set of turf tires with wheels for $450 delivered and have considered that for summer time use (not sure if I wanna get into having "winter" and "summer" tires on the tractor though!!)

 

[bczoom]

acs55812,

Welcome to TBN.
You may want to consider a box blade instead of ballast box for the rear. It has a lot more uses and depending on what size you get, they're nice and heavy.

That seems to me like a nice price on turf tires. I stopped mowing with mine because the R1 tires dig/sink into the yard unless it's very dry.

 

[Hambone]

Everyone has an opinion and an option that works for them. Might not work for someone else. Using the loader without a rear ballast (box or other) you won't be taking any weight off the front axle. Just something else to think about.
I have I-Match, so removing and adding ballast box is no sweat.

 

[Bob_Skurka]

Hambone, excellent point.

Consider:
#1) Rear Wheel Weights and/or Fluid Filled Tires, these put weight at the rear of the tractor, but they do nothing to lighten the front end of the tractor. Further, rear wheel weight (in either form) allow both the steering mechanism and the front axle of the tractor to take the full force of pressure of the FEL & its load. Not to say this is completely bad, it is just not optimum for really heavy FEL work.

#2) Heavy overall tractors are typically cast iron machines with cast iron engines, cast iron bell housings, and cast iron rear ends. That means that much of the overall weight is actually in the front of the machine, or at very least spread across the entire machine. These tractors still REQUIRE proper ballast, and there are discussions where even the heavy Mahindra's get their back tires lifted off the ground.

#3) Ballast boxes, as recommended by manufacturers require less overall weight to do the same job as fluid fill because they use the mechanical advantage of geometry (remember Jr. High School math?) and the effort of "lever action" by placing the weight well behind the rear axle, using the rear axle as the fulcrum point to lighten the front end axle so all of the weight of the FEL & its load is not resting on that front axle.

There are lots of ways to be safe when using a FEL, and under modest use rear filled tires or wheel weights are often enough weight. When you are really testing the capacity of your FEL then some form of ballast on the 3pt can make a real difference in safe operation. A H.D. box blade can often weigh close to the weight of a ballast box. Some folks have fashioned added weights onto their box blades. Some people report using their backhoe or their rotary cutter. The common thread is they are using something that is big and heavy, and that must say something.

 

[keeney]

The turf tires should be OK for plowing snow as well (I run turfs for snow plowing). If you have a lot of ice, you may want to add studs.

I built my ballast block out of a cat-1 drawbar, two 18" pieces of 1/8 x 2.5" flat steel welded to it with a 1" hole drilled in them for the toplink, and 11 bags of Quick-crete. I used some scrap plywood for the form. The form was held together with duct-tape with a couple of nylon tie-down straps around the whole thing to take the pressure.

Whole project took about one evening (not including cure time), and cost about $50.

The 900lb ballast block is a pain to put on and off, though.

- Rick