JD 350Bw Dozer - advise needed please

[brirob62]

Hi, I found a dozer for sale that I think I might be interested in but it has a steering clutch problem. The Dozer runs pretty strong, steers fine in reverse but hardly steers at all in forward. I did notice that if the dozer is climbing up hill it does steer a little better in farward than it does on flat or down grade... but even then, it's still not what it should be.

The dozer is a John Deere 350Bw (wide track with blade extentions), 6 way. Serial Number 204939T (Can you tell me what year that is???)
The guy is selling for $5000 which seems to be a good price but I realize it will need some clutch work.

Can you please help me with 3 questions....
1) based on those symptoms, how serious do you think the clutch issue is. I've seen that a full clutch rebuild kit is around $600 each but if it's just warn discs/pads they can be replaced individually and are a lot less expensive. Any good guess?
2) Where can I find information and instructions on clutch removal and repair.
3) can someone tell me the year of this tractor based on the Serial number above?
Bonus question: I want a tractor for my farm and hope to be able to use it to clean out two small ponds, knock down small trees (6-8 inch diam), clear and level a new pasture, level and compact a new barn site, and possible put in a new pond. Do you I'd be happy with this machine?

Thanks
Brian

 

[beenthere]

Any explanation of what the seller knows about the problem?

Look under the inspection covers to see if there is oil on the clutch facings, or possibly there is some adjustment that can be done.

A trip to a Deere dealer to look up availability of the parts as well as s/n info would be one of my first steps.

A good look at the undercarriage too, as that is where the big bucks can disappear.

The low price indicates there are problems that will require some major investment to get it running ok for any work. (MO

 

[Bob Rooks]

I think it's an early '80's machine.
Is it for sale by a private party or a dealer?
I will defer to Beenthere's post aout inspecting the steering clutches and adjustments.
Does it have full rock guards? These can hide bad carrier rollers. Sprockets & idlers OK?
These machines are selling for between $8,000 and $11,000 in good condition in my area.

 

[tlbuser]

There shouldn't be any oil, water, grease, fuel, etc... in the clutch packs. This machine uses dry steering clutches. Is it a straight stick or power reverse? What I consider to be power reverse is the handle on the left to shift from fwd to rev without clutching. I've bought a 350B loader and had to replace both steering clutches. It's very heavy, dirty and time consuming. You need big tools. Parts are easily available from OEM to aftermarket. JDcrawlers.com, crawlerheaven.com, heavyquip.com, clutchandfriction.com plus UPS will set you up for the task. Brake bands are expensive (~$200 per side), I sent mine to clutchandfriction and had them relined (~75 for both) plus shipping.

I can hook you up with the parts and service manuals. I even know a guy that has a hoe off a 350 looking for a good home at a reasonable price.

Found the link for manuals http://www.johndeeretechinfo.com/in...utes=division,model&model=350B&menuModel=350B

 

[jusalooking]

i worked for yrs for a company that had several wide track dozers, they did alot of mud jobs, i have ran a 350 like the one you are looking at, I will tell you that the steering clutch,s and brake will wear out alot faster because of the more track, Also the rails, It will turn easier headed up hill because you have resistance,, It would probaly need the steering clutch pack replaced, i have did quite a few, it,s not bad if you have the tools and place to do it, but if you have to hire someone there goes the bargain, I just got another JD440 that a guy tore apart than left sit because of finding more aworng than he first tought,

 

[tlbuser]

And even found some disassembly pics. Left side torn down, right side with newly rebuilt clutch pack and brake band installed.
In the foreground of left side pic is the rear final counterweight (250-300? lbs.) and the belly counterweight (~500 lbs.) is behind and just right of rear final drive.

 

[jusalooking]

Wow how clean, did you have it steamed before tearing it down, usally i had a oilly mess in the mud, or a shop so dark you can,t see

 

[tlbuser]

pressure washer on the outside and decent weather. About 3 gallons of Zep to cleanup the clutch housings. It's a personal use machine so I didn't have to work in the muck to get done in a hurry.

 

[jdtractor]

hi your clutch packs are bad along with the brakes .you can clean them with brake cleaner it will help for a little while provided the seals etc.. are good and dont leak. you will eventually have to replace both sides including the brakes , then re adjust to suit you. the free travel is approx 1 1/2 inches before the clutch starts to engage. to test the brakes fo adjustment pull the steering levers back all the way tractor will stop even if they are set rite , adjust the side thats weakest. i ve done lots of them , if you can get hold of a master manual its good it tells you all about what im talking about good luck.ps dont set themto tight and another thing the more you work a dry clutch tractor and the harder the more you have to adjust the clutches.