Jd 2305 will not crank

[Oletrapper]

Hello all, I have spent the last 3 hours searching for a thread which might lead me to an answer to my problem. I found none so here I am.

I am working on a JD 2305 and hope someone can help me figure this out. Possibly I have overlooked something.

Symptom: Will not crank. Turn the key on and dash lights up. Turn to start and there is a click. Nothing.

What I have checked and done so far,

The starter motor and solenoid are good. I found a shorted diode and a bad starter relay and have replaced both.
I have located and tested 4 other diodes and all checked good. All fuses are good. All relays check good. Battery is new.

Seat switch is good.

I have not checked the neutral safety switch yet. Haven't located it. I think it's in the transmission. That is tomorrows project.
Does the break have to be set? Can't find anything saying that it must be locked in order to start engine.

Hope someone out there can help me get this thing running.

Thanks in advance. Oletrapper

 

[Peter 315]

Did you check the cable from the battery to ground on the frame and both cables on the battery ......

 

[Roadworthy]

Charge the new battery, have it load tested to be sure it's a GOOD battery. Clean the battery terminals. Clean the battery cable connectors. Clean the battery ground point.

 

[kthompson]

If you have the headlights on when you try to crank it what happens to them? If they dim heavy most likely Peter is on the right track.

 

[duramaxsky]

Electrical is methodical. Get a wiring diagram. Start at the switch and move along 1 connection at a time. Look for power when the key is tuned. When you get to one where it has none you know it's between there and the last place it did. If it was newer and had a computer I would also say use a proper tester that can't damage electronics.

 

[Wagtail]

It 'sounds' as if you're not in actually in neutral.

Sometimes this happens with my 4105. The range selector looks, and even feels, as if it's in neutral but there's a small, extra' little nudge to actually get into the correct position. I'll typically work the selector forward and then back to neutral to resolve the problem.

A similar situation occurs, once I've started the 4105, released the brake, put it in 'high', increased the revs and then engage the FWD pedal. Nothing happens until I put pressure on the selector and it slightly 'advances', engaging, almost like 'meshing', with the range position that I want.

 

[duramaxsky]

It 'sounds' as if you're not in actually in neutral.

Sometimes this happens with my 4105. The range selector looks, and even feels, as if it's in neutral but there's a small, extra' little nudge to actually get into the correct position. I'll typically work the selector forward and then back to neutral to resolve the problem.

A similar situation occurs, once I've started the 4105, released the brake, put it in 'high', increased the revs and then engage the FWD pedal. Nothing happens until I put pressure on the selector and it slightly 'advances', engaging, almost like 'meshing', with the range position that I want.

My 2025R is like that too. Mostly when it looks to be in neutral and I get off it shuts off.

 

[Oletrapper]

Did you check the cable from the battery to ground on the frame and both cables on the battery ......

Yes Peter, cables, battery are all new. All connections good and clean and solid. Thanks for the reply. OT

 

[Oletrapper]

It 'sounds' as if you're not in actually in neutral.

Sometimes this happens with my 4105. The range selector looks, and even feels, as if it's in neutral but there's a small, extra' little nudge to actually get into the correct position. I'll typically work the selector forward and then back to neutral to resolve the problem.

A similar situation occurs, once I've started the 4105, released the brake, put it in 'high', increased the revs and then engage the FWD pedal. Nothing happens until I put pressure on the selector and it slightly 'advances', engaging, almost like 'meshing', with the range position that I want.

Wagtail, That is today's project. I don't have a manual and just using logical testing diagnostics. Point A to point B rule. B to C then C to D etc.. I have 35 years experience in mechanics and electronics and I'm going at this in a very methodical way. I am marking the schematic as I proceed. That is how I found the shorted diode and the bad starter relay. (Both replaced and no change in condition.) For example, the transmission neutral switch is in the normally closed position. I have not looked for the switch yet but will find it today. I'm sure it is buried under the seat somewhere. I will meter the switch after unplugging. I'll post back what I find. Thanks for your reply. OT

 

[Oletrapper]

Electrical is methodical. Get a wiring diagram. Start at the switch and move along 1 connection at a time. Look for power when the key is tuned. When you get to one where it has none you know it's between there and the last place it did. If it was newer and had a computer I would also say use a proper tester that can't damage electronics.

Thanks Duramax, Methodical is my middle name. lol I am proceeding with a diagram. 1 wire at a time. That's how I located the shorted diode and bad starter relay. I am using a Fluke digital meter. I'll find it eventually. Might take a while but I will find it. Thanks for your reply. OT