JD 112: Wiring Short

MinnesotaGuy84 · Jan 5, 2014

My John Deere 112 lawn tractor has a wiring short somewhere and I'd like some some insight on how to best find it without willy nilly just starting to replace wiring. First off, I'm assuming it's a wiring short. Sometimes I get lights and the electric lift to work while the starter won't crank. Sometimes I can get it to crank and start just fine. Sometimes I cannot get it to crank by jumping the solenoid. Sometimes I can get it to crank by jumping the solnoid but then I don't get any spark. Any advice?

jimmysisson · Jan 5, 2014

Have you removed, cleaned connections, and tightened the battery cables? Sometimes cables look much better than they are. What you describe sounds like an open, not a short. Do you have a test light? When you get the failures you describe, see what device has power but doesn't operate; power at the starter cable eye but not at the starter terminal stud will tell you poor connection, etc. Let us know and good luck.
Jim

Zebrafive · Jan 5, 2014

Also check the ground cable connection at non battery end. Sounds like bad cable/ground to me.

MinnesotaGuy84 · Jan 7, 2014

I have cleaned up a whole bunch of the connections and several of the grounds to the frame. I did it on one occasion (only cleaned a portion of them) then I got it to fire up. Ran it a bit then it stopped. Then I did more thorough cleaning and it fired up again. Ran it a bit now it won't start again. Ideas?

oldnslo · Jan 7, 2014

If your 112 is like mine the engine is mounted on rubber isolation mounts. There is a ground cable to one of the mounting bolts on mine that the cable end broke on from vibration fatigue. The end looked good until I looked and checked it very carefully.

If you have the electric clutch version the clutch switch can also cause the engine to not start. I don't remember if this causes no spark or no spin though.

kw22614 · Jan 7, 2014

Sounds like bad ground to me too. Also look at all the 'safety cutoff switches'. Make sure they're all tight to the frame and nothing is blocking/impedeing their operation. Like under the seat, or reverse cutoff, check your ownwer's manual to find them all. Sometimes the switch itself is the ground when TIGHT to the frame, sometimes it has it's own ground wire. As someone already mentioned sometimes the round or spade connector under the ground screw can be broken and you won't see it till it's removed. If that's the prob - don't replace the end just strip enough wire to wrap 'naked' under the ground screw head. Good luck. KW