Comparison JD 1050 vs ... ?

[selkie]

Hey all,

We are putting back into service a small (5 acre) farm that had long been disused, much of which is quite overgrown. I know some of the small farms here seem to be more horse-oriented, but what we have in mind is more of a homestead.

Currently I have a JD 112, which I keep because it had been Grandpa's, and a small Husky. We need to sell the Husky and get something a little bigger. We are looking for:

- Durability / mechanical simplicity -- we are able to do most mechanical jobs ourselves but I don't want to be constantly fighting with whiz-bang technology that fails after 5 or 10 years
- 4wd -- some hilly terrain here
- Diesel -- for torque and lower fuel consumption
- Enough oomph to drive a loader

Looking at what JD has made over the years, it looks like the old Yanmar powered machines had a good reputation but parts availability is starting to be questionable. We're used to tracking down parts for our old stuff and that's not a major problem to me. Many of the old 1050's seem to already have a 75 or 80 loader, and I've even seen a few with the 8 backhoe. Any comments on that setup? Any other older 4wd diesels that would compare well to it?

Also, I notice that a lot of the 1050's with loaders have damage to the front of their hoods, more than I've seen with other loaders. Is there something about how it's set up that makes it hard to see where you're going?

We would be using it for plowing, clearing land, moving manure (we don't have animals ourselves, but the horse folks in this area give it away), and mowing the area that I keep grass for the kids. I've double dug a couple large plots that the rototiller couldn't get through (this land hasn't been plowed in maybe 30+ years) and a machine to help break up soil would be welcome.

Thanks in advance for your time!

 

[Roadworthy]

Hood damage can occur from contact with the loader. You don't want to operate the loader on some tractors with the hood open. (Don't ask.) I don't know your budget but many subcompact tractors would probably fill the bill for you. I advise avoiding grey market tractors. They can be a challenge finding repair parts. Just having a name brand tractor does not mean it's not grey market. If instruction and warning stickers are not printed in English you've probably got a grey market tractor.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Maybe positioning is less precise without a hydro. Usually just a careless operator. Or hired person, not my tractor and hey, it's just a tractor mentality.

Also, the smaller the tractor, the less reach you have. Less margin of error.

YANMAR:thumbsup:

 

[TimberHole]

I have a 950 with a 75 loader. The 50 series are great little tractors. If you get one with a loader make sure you also have power steering and 4WD. These loader tractors all have hood damage from debris falling out of the back side of the bucket onto the hood. I had a 2WD without the loader and the hood was perfect. My loader tractor has a dinged up hood. Most of the parts you would ever need are readily available. Th e 50 series has good aftermarket support and many parts are still available from the dealer.

 

[selkie]

Hood damage can occur from contact with the loader. You don't want to operate the loader on some tractors with the hood open. (Don't ask.) I don't know your budget but many subcompact tractors would probably fill the bill for you. I advise avoiding grey market tractors. They can be a challenge finding repair parts. Just having a name brand tractor does not mean it's not grey market. If instruction and warning stickers are not printed in English you've probably got a grey market tractor.

Sure, makes sense about the loader.

Grey market doesn't really both me parts-wise, but JD kinda runs in my family, so I'd rather go with old and green.

How long does it take to detach and reattach the 75 or 80 loader? Is it realistic for me to put those on and off the tractor a few times a season? Or it's kinda "put it on and leave it there forever"?

Ditto for the 8 backhoe if I find one with it. Does the 3 point just fold out of the way to mount it? Or do people take that off to mount the backhoe, and then it's going to be a big headache if they lost it?

 

[zzvyb6]

Hood damage on these modesl is from the front weight bar being too close to the nose. I have a 1070. In order for the loader cross bar to clear the suitcase weight, the weight bracket sets VERY close to the grill. Bump the weights from specific loads use and your machine can get a black eye, or worse.

 

[TimberHole]

75 takes 15 or 20 minutes. 80 should be faster. Hoe uses a subframe but never had one although I壇 like to find one.

 

[selkie]

Hood damage on these modesl is from the front weight bar being too close to the nose. I have a 1070. In order for the loader cross bar to clear the suitcase weight, the weight bracket sets VERY close to the grill. Bump the weights from specific loads use and your machine can get a black eye, or worse.

Good to know, thanks. 1070 is the newer version of the 1050, right? Better, worse, same and just newer, or what? Looks like the prices are actually pretty similar for it, from a quick look online.

 

[selkie]

75 takes 15 or 20 minutes. 80 should be faster. Hoe uses a subframe but never had one although I壇 like to find one.

Sounds like it's realistic for me to put the loader on when I need it and take it off when I don't, then.

Do you know if the 3pt swings out of the way for the backhoe? Or do you have to remove it to make room for the hoe?

 

[TimberHole]

I don’t know on the 3 point for the hoe. I’ve never mounted one. I believe someone on this forum had a difficult time finding a head gasket for a 70 series tractor. Many parts are readily available for the 50 series. I would look real close at parts availability before I would by a 70.