JD 1050 locked Brakes?

[k4todave]

I posted earlier about my 1050 that wouldn't move because the something was keeping the rear wheels from turning. Someone suggested that it might be locked brakes. Evidently, this is a common occurrence with this model. The tractor gets run very seldom and sits in a barn with the door open. My question is this: If I take it out of gear and leave the engine off, can I attempt to tow it to break the brakes loose? If so, what must I do to prevent this from happening again?

The tractor has been housed in this barn for over 35 years and has only 930 hours on it, so it it is not used much. Thanks. Dave in KY

 

[Harry in Ky]

I've been working on a little 850 over the last couple weeks, mostly for other issues, and have noticed a similar problem with one brake. I'm not sure that brakes locking up for no reason is all that common with these tractors but this one appears to be no more than rust/crud buildup where the camshaft (item 15 in this diagram) rotates in its bore. Once the pedal is pushed down, it requires more effort than the return springs to fully retract it. The brakes on this tractor work surprising well. With the pedal down just a small distance, it will lock and skid that tire when I try to move it. So far hosing it down with penetrating oil hasn't helped much so I guess the next step is to pull the brake assembly and clean it up some from the inside.

Are you sure the pedals and linkage on your tractor are all the way back and not maybe applying even a little bit more brake action than you might think?

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/82818/referrer/navigation/pgId/17433107

 

[k4todave]

Thanks Harry,

I'm pretty sure my pedals are all the way back. I haven't noticed them being a sensitive as yours. I've tried to get someone to come work on it, but so far, haven't found anyone who shows up when called. I live near Winchester.

 

[Harry in Ky]

Check your PM inbox.

 

[beenthere]

Looks like you may be neighbors.. hope you guys can work out the problem together. Then hope you let us know how it was solved. tks

 

[k4todave]

Beenthere --- will do.. Thanks... Dave

 

[rScotty]

If those are the dry brakes under an external cover, those Yanmar/JD brakes didn't stand up to getting wet very well.
Pulling the tractor won't work to free the brakes, but you might break a transmission shaft. The only cure is take the brake cover off and deal with the rust until the shoes come loose from the drum.

 

[k4todave]

Many thanks for that. I won't risk it by trying what I suggested. I have someone coming next week to work on it, thanks to this forum. I found someone local to help me. It is very much appreciated. KY Dave

 

[beenthere]

Per rscotty's suggestion, here is schematic of the brakes.

Key #9 is the cover.

 

[k4todave]

Thank you!

 

[TimberHole]

They are super easy to take off. Don’t even need to pull the wheels. I would pull the brakes. They aren’t going to fix themselves and sounds like they need attention!

 

[k4todave]

Well that is encouraging! Thanks.... Dave in KY

 

[DLTTrekkers]

If they are stuck you wil have a problem taking the cover off as the shoes is part of the cover. Or shall I say it gets assembled on the cover
And yes it is dry brakes.
The lever going through the cover gets rusted and does not turn. That will be the problem you have to solve. If needed the other side on the cover is a square ? pin. Loosen that pin and turn it 90° to take up slack on your adjusting link.
If needed the drum comes out easy for machining .
Please check that seal. If its leaking replace it.

 

[rScotty]

Per rscotty's suggestion, here is schematic of the brakes.

Key #9 is the cover.

I've done a number of these type brakes. They are typical of Japanese compact tractors from that era. These are Yanmars and that brake design is notorious.

The trick is to get the cover off - and the problem is that the shoes are affixed to the cover and probably stuck to the drum as well. Wiggle it by fractions and be prepared to take your time. When you do get the cover off, the actuating shaft is probably rusted to the cover so deal with that.

The gasket is not necessary; use RTV. Machine the drums. Replace the springs. And I like to put a drain hole in the bottom of the cover.
rScotty

 

[TimberHole]

I read somewhere a guy sealed the cover and converted these to wet brakes. Any thoughts on that? I don’t know anything about wet brakes.

 

[rScotty]

That's an interesting fix. I'd like to read about it. No reason in the world why a good mechanic couldn't do that.

But doesn't it seem a little easier to just put a shielded vent in the top of the cover and a drain in the bottom? Then run them dry as designed.
Both vent & drain are basically quarter inch holes with an inch or so of downwards-pointing copper tubing inserted.

Just musing now.....that whole old Yanmar line all all suffer from water in the brakes - the JD1050 is basically a re-badged Yanmar...I think it was a Yanmar YM3810? And brakes that get water in them and rust just seems wrong for tractors made to be used in fish ponds & rice paddys.

I guess some things are better left a mystery. But if you vent and drain the cover - and quit driving around in ponds and rice paddys - your next set of brakes ought to last the life of the tractor.
Parts are available, and shoes can be re-shod if necessary. The brake drum has plenty of thickness to lathe a few times. All that's left is a couple of standard metric seals and two springs. Simple/dimple like apple pie...

You don't even have to lay under the tractor. Take off the rear wheel(s) and you can do the whole job sitting down.
Good luck,
rScotty

 

[TimberHole]

I think the appeal with wet brakes is that many of these tractors leak hydraulic oil past the seal into the brake drum. Instead of pulling apart the rear end it might be easier to convert to wet brakes. I just don’t know if a guy would have as good of brakes and I don’t know what kind of linings would be appropriate.