JD 1050 locked Brakes?

[TimberHole]

They are super easy to take off. Don’t even need to pull the wheels. I would pull the brakes. They aren’t going to fix themselves and sounds like they need attention!

 

[k4todave]

Well that is encouraging! Thanks.... Dave in KY

 

[DLTTrekkers]

If they are stuck you wil have a problem taking the cover off as the shoes is part of the cover. Or shall I say it gets assembled on the cover
And yes it is dry brakes.
The lever going through the cover gets rusted and does not turn. That will be the problem you have to solve. If needed the other side on the cover is a square ? pin. Loosen that pin and turn it 90° to take up slack on your adjusting link.
If needed the drum comes out easy for machining .
Please check that seal. If its leaking replace it.

 

[rScotty]

Per rscotty's suggestion, here is schematic of the brakes.

Key #9 is the cover.

I've done a number of these type brakes. They are typical of Japanese compact tractors from that era. These are Yanmars and that brake design is notorious.

The trick is to get the cover off - and the problem is that the shoes are affixed to the cover and probably stuck to the drum as well. Wiggle it by fractions and be prepared to take your time. When you do get the cover off, the actuating shaft is probably rusted to the cover so deal with that.

The gasket is not necessary; use RTV. Machine the drums. Replace the springs. And I like to put a drain hole in the bottom of the cover.
rScotty

 

[TimberHole]

I read somewhere a guy sealed the cover and converted these to wet brakes. Any thoughts on that? I don’t know anything about wet brakes.

 

[rScotty]

That's an interesting fix. I'd like to read about it. No reason in the world why a good mechanic couldn't do that.

But doesn't it seem a little easier to just put a shielded vent in the top of the cover and a drain in the bottom? Then run them dry as designed.
Both vent & drain are basically quarter inch holes with an inch or so of downwards-pointing copper tubing inserted.

Just musing now.....that whole old Yanmar line all all suffer from water in the brakes - the JD1050 is basically a re-badged Yanmar...I think it was a Yanmar YM3810? And brakes that get water in them and rust just seems wrong for tractors made to be used in fish ponds & rice paddys.

I guess some things are better left a mystery. But if you vent and drain the cover - and quit driving around in ponds and rice paddys - your next set of brakes ought to last the life of the tractor.
Parts are available, and shoes can be re-shod if necessary. The brake drum has plenty of thickness to lathe a few times. All that's left is a couple of standard metric seals and two springs. Simple/dimple like apple pie...

You don't even have to lay under the tractor. Take off the rear wheel(s) and you can do the whole job sitting down.
Good luck,
rScotty

 

[TimberHole]

I think the appeal with wet brakes is that many of these tractors leak hydraulic oil past the seal into the brake drum. Instead of pulling apart the rear end it might be easier to convert to wet brakes. I just don’t know if a guy would have as good of brakes and I don’t know what kind of linings would be appropriate.