JAPANESE BEETLES

/ JAPANESE BEETLES #1  

WVH1977

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Apr 6, 2017
Messages
760
Location
Richmond, VA
Tractor
Massey 2860M Cab, Massey 1E.35, Gravely Pro-Turn 560, 1989 Ford D47 Dump Truck John Deere LX178
They have to be one the worst pests I deal with!!!!!!
 
/ JAPANESE BEETLES #3  
Pyrethrin (Bug Slayer, deltamethrin) around doors, windows and sill stopped the asian and boxelder beetles coming in the house. Removing food sources slowed the Japanese beetles to a fraction of what they were. Fruit trees and bushes seemed to be their favorite. Roses, plum bushes, cherry and apple trees, chokeberry, raspberry - once we reduced and removed at least some of those, they slowly disappeared. They got a cycle going - beetles, grubs, more beetles, more grubs - just needed to break that, at least here anyway.
 
/ JAPANESE BEETLES #4  
We had a terrible problem with Japanese Beetles. We're surrounded by corn and beans and the beetles would winter in our lawn and then devour the crops and our vegetation in the summer. The regular commercial stuff was useless.

We found a granular product that apparently interferes with the grub shell and it dies in the process. It doesn't hurt worms or bees and is relatively harmless so I was good with it.
It's an additive to fertilizer or just by itself and you MUST put it on in March or April or so. It's called Acelepryn (0.067%) and is the absolute cure for Japanese Beetles and their grubs. It's pricey and my two acre yard costs me maybe $375-$400 for materials. I spread it myself.

You will notice excellent (98%) results the first year but it takes 2 seasons for full control. We lost an entire orchard to beetles and they even devoured some evergreens. Now, we see maybe two beetles a year and this year have yet to see even one.


You can also do milky spore for organic results but it takes a while and is a slow cure.
 
/ JAPANESE BEETLES #5  
We had a terrible problem with Japanese Beetles. We're surrounded by corn and beans and the beetles would winter in our lawn and then devour the crops and our vegetation in the summer. The regular commercial stuff was useless.

We found a granular product that apparently interferes with the grub shell and it dies in the process. It doesn't hurt worms or bees and is relatively harmless so I was good with it.
It's an additive to fertilizer or just by itself and you MUST put it on in March or April or so. It's called Acelepryn (0.067%) and is the absolute cure for Japanese Beetles and their grubs. It's pricey and my two acre yard costs me maybe $375-$400 for materials. I spread it myself.

You will notice excellent (98%) results the first year but it takes 2 seasons for full control. We lost an entire orchard to beetles and they even devoured some evergreens. Now, we see maybe two beetles a year and this year have yet to see even one.


You can also do milky spore for organic results but it takes a while and is a slow cure.
I tried the milky spore, but didn't have much luck with it. I'll have to check out the acelepryn. Ground is typically still frozen here in April, wonder how that affects it?
Beans and asparagus seem to be the big attractions to them here, plus one rose bush (other rose bushes don't seem to be affected as much).
 
/ JAPANESE BEETLES #6  
I tried the milky spore, but didn't have much luck with it. I'll have to check out the acelepryn. Ground is typically still frozen here in April, wonder how that affects it?
Beans and asparagus seem to be the big attractions to them here, plus one rose bush (other rose bushes don't seem to be affected as much).
Colder climates will impact the effectiveness of Milky Spore. Did you apply it 3 times a year for 3 consecutive years?
 
/ JAPANESE BEETLES #7  
skunks are really hard on beetle grubs!
 
/ JAPANESE BEETLES #8  
I use traps and bags.
Place at least 20-30 feet away from what you don't want them to eat.
Works pretty well for me, usually 2-3 traps, replace bag every few weeks until they disappear.
 
/ JAPANESE BEETLES #9  
I use traps and bags.
Place at least 20-30 feet away from what you don't want them to eat.
Works pretty well for me, usually 2-3 traps, replace bag every few weeks until they disappear.
I've found that the traps just seem to attract them from a larger area. Get a lot of 'em in the bags, but not much of a dent in the population.

Colder climates will impact the effectiveness of Milky Spore. Did you apply it 3 times a year for 3 consecutive years?
Don't remember, this was maybe 10 years ago, maybe longer.
 
/ JAPANESE BEETLES #10  
Japanese beetles are not an issue for me. I got some chickens and they are completely gone. It's boxwood elder bugs that are the problem for me.
 
/ JAPANESE BEETLES #11  
I tried the milky spore, but didn't have much luck with it. I'll have to check out the acelepryn. Ground is typically still frozen here in April, wonder how that affects it?
Beans and asparagus seem to be the big attractions to them here, plus one rose bush (other rose bushes don't seem to be affected as much).
I was in the land grading biz and was told Acelepryn will eventually be the only product approved for grub control. The others are said to be environmentally dangerous. Acelepryn is on the preferred list but is more expensive. For me, it's a miracle.

I put down 150-200 lbs per acre of granules and prefer without fertilizer added. I could choose between 0-0-7 and 7-0-0 if I want fertilizer. I use granules because they hit all the nooks and crannies.

Trapping beetles was a waste for me and I believe attracted them from miles around. Milky spore is uncertain and big box store "grub treatments" don't work for me.

If ground is frozen in NH, wait till it's and follow instructions on the bag. If you have some other similar bug, read the label and see if it impacts your bug. Your ground may be frozen in early March but is ready to go by the end of the month. Read instruction sheet.
 

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