Snow It's Early - Snow Removal JD 2520

[urbandeere2520]

Yep, I have no doubt the 54-inch snow blower will do the job and is relatively easy to install. However, I'll probably shudder at the expense (have no idea $$). I reckon I'll also need some sort of front bracket kit, PTO extension kit, hydraulics, in addition to the blower itself.

Now if I'm moving south out of snow country in a few years, then it's probably not worth the all cost. Maybe I'll keep the little Troybilt garden tractor around for awhile and just leave snow blower permanently attached to it year round.

BTW - I'm hoping the 4-wheel drive will get the tractor up the hill since chains just tear up my asphalt drive something fierce. The little 2-wheel drive Troybilt has chains on the rear and would often spin going up the driveway with the blower on front. Biggest issue with the Troybilt is no rear limited slip...so only one wheel turned at a time.

 

[Don87]

For a 20% grade, I would seriously consider loading the tires with Rimguard or something, as well as tire chains. Loading the tires will put the weight at ground level where you need it. You'll be glad you did.

 

[tomd999]

Hiya,

I live on a mountain in NH, we average about 14-16 feet of snow a season, I have a 2520 and a 600 foot steeply inclined driveway so I can offer some real world advice.

First off, load the rear tires, the 2520 needs loaded rear tires for anything more than cutting grass. If your drivway is paved, you won't need chains 99% of the time, I never have. If you really concerned with ice, go to a fastner supply house and get some #10x1/2" grade 8 sheet metal screws and put them in the lugs in the front tires. They won't mark the driveway like chains will and work well on ice.

Second, decide on what type of blower you want to get, front or rear. I currently have a 65" 3-point blower for the back of mine, works great, throws the snow into next week no matter how deep or heavy. Yes, turning arround and backing up does get old.

Third, if you choose the rear blower, you should have a front blade, you have to decide on either frame or loader mount, both have advantages and disadvantages. The loader mount blade is easy to change over to, has greater reach when banking snow, more weight on the tractor front wheels and higher cost. The frame mounts are generally easier on the pocket, a bit shorter in reach and ability to bank snow, lighter weight and a bit harder to change.

If you go with a loader mount plow, add three 40# suitcase weights to the frame to assist in keeping the front wheels on the ground going uphill in float. You may also need to use the steering brakes to keep yourself pointed in the direction you want to go as the loader plow does have a tendency to push the little 2520 around. If you get the Deere or Curtis loader plow, you have to realize that they are heavy and you will notice that banking snow may stall the loader sooner than you think. Also, even with loaded tires, wheel weights and a rear blower, the back will get light at times.

After 4 years with mine, here is what I would recommend:

First choice, go for a front mount blower and blade setup if your driveway is paved. You can make the changeover quick before snow season and swap the blower and blade easy depending on snowfall depth. If you have the $, you can go all the way and get the rotary broom for the light dustings and general cleanup. One word of caution, these are serise specific implements, they will only work with the 2000 series and not many others.

Second but very close would be a rear 3pt blower and a front loader mount blade. You can plow, bank and blow the snow. Easy changeover and you also have implements that you can use wih a larger series or different brand tractor with minor work if you ever find the need.

Third choice would be rear blades or box blade with the bucket up front, flat and level this may work but on a hill, not so much.

Just my 2 cents

Tom

 

[Wyobuckaroo]

My experience has been..............

Once you work the front mount, 2 stage blower, you will throw away the garden tractor machines............

I will bet your walk behind 2 stage will severely rust faster than you think. But you won't care...........

Now that you have spent this much money............... Don't cheap out now on implements. :thumbsup:

Good luck
Wyo

 

[North Country]

Maybe I'll keep the little Troybilt garden tractor around for awhile and just leave snow blower permanently attached to it year round.

BTW - I'm hoping the 4-wheel drive will get the tractor up the hill since chains just tear up my asphalt drive something fierce. The little 2-wheel drive Troybilt has chains on the rear and would often spin going up the driveway with the blower on front. Biggest issue with the Troybilt is no rear limited slip...so only one wheel turned at a time.

The complete 54" setup will cost you over $3K new, and they're tough to find used. The 47" are available used (the QH version also runs on the 400 series GT), but you'll likely have to buy the 2520-specific QH, brackets & PTO stuff new unless you get lucky.

You can't get much cheaper than the GT that you already know works. Just add about 200-300lbs to the rear - fill the tires, wheel weights, anything. Chains do more damage when they spin, so keep 'em stuck to the ground. That's the way to get by for as little as possible, if that's what you're after.

 

[JB4310]

2 feet of snow?
Definitely gonna need the front blower, for 4 inches you could push/ plow down hill, off to the sides.

No matter what else, better start looking for a full set of good chains!

JB

 

[C-Range]

Hi All,

I am pretty much echoing Manchvegas Tom. I've got a steep sloped 300 ft drive, similar to you.

Sorry, but the loader is the last attachment I use in the winter. If picking just one tool, it's simply got to be a blower. We have the trusty JD 47 front mount. I do my driveway in about 30 minutes and when it's done, it's right down to clean asphalt. You can see some videos of mine on YouTube of the 47 blower on the 2305.

Last year, we added the 54 plow blade, but it was only for the really light storms of less than 1-2". I don't much enjoy using this plow blade. It actually takes longer to plow 1" of snow with the blade than it does blowing 4" or 6" of snow with the blower. The blade just leaves a heck of a mess and requires lots of tedious cleanup; never ending chasing of the overspill. I'm hoping to find some uses for the blade in the dirt this summer to justify its existence.

The loader (bucket) is only used once or twice in mid/late winter to reorganize accumulation and eliminate the few places where snow builds up such as corners, along walls, etc.

When getting our 2520, I got a quote for the 54 blower. With all of the attaching parts, the total was about $3600. I decided to keep the 47 due to the plastic impeller controversy and the 47 has proven to be a good machine.

FYI, when switching between the loader and blower/plow, you have to add/remove ALL of the blower/plow attaching parts from the tractor. This typically includes the PTO shaft from under the tractor, and then the two or three blower/plow mounts on the front of the tractor at minimum. It's not my definition of fun when it's 13 deg F.

If funds are an issue, use the loader this coming winter and save up for the blower next year. It's not the end of the world. Good luck.

 

[whbrittain]

Bummer.... I bought the JD 2520 FEL so I wouldn't have to deal with a stinkin snow blower anymore. I have a little 16 HP Troybilt garden tractor with a snow blower attachment and it was the reason I purchased the JD 2520 w/FEL, so I wouldn't have to spend all friggin day under that little tractor put on the snow blower and chains each year. It's a pain in the arse to assemble, sub-frame assembly and all.

Now what you're tellin me is that I'll need to do the same thing for the JD 2520 in the event I get the big deep snow. In the 2010 winter season we had three storms, each nearly 2 feet in depth.

I live in the mountains of Maine a 2 foot snowfalls are fairly common. I have a front mounted snowblower that takes less than 10 minutes to install (I keep the snowblower on a dolly so I can roll it into position. Using a custom dolly for the FEL I can switch between the two in under 20 minutes.

With your grade, chains and a weight box would be a no brainer. I put the chains on the the fall and leave them on until spring. R4s are real nice but they slip and slide with the best of them on hard packed snow and ice.

 

[smalltown]

Hi All,

Last year, we added the 54 plow blade, but it was only for the really light storms of less than 1-2". I don't much enjoy using this plow blade.

ensoll was the blade really that bad for you?????

I had been on the lookout for a used blade for my 2520 I don't have a big parking area to clean up and the cost of the blower is quite high (at least a new one).

I looked at what revitupfaster is doing in Canada (Ontario I think)
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/john-deere-owning-operating/195964-2520-snow-mover.html

I even think his blade is smaller but adapted to fit the 2520 quick hitch.

I will add that the OP has hill(s) wereas myself and apparently revitupfaster areas are flat.

 

[grsthegreat]

I had a JD870 that had 24Hp at the PTO and i used a snowking 60" rear pushing snowblower. I could clear a 400 foot driveway with 16" of snow in about an hours time. The biggest problem i had with that setup was driving back-wards and only having 3 rear speeds. very limited and i was either always going too fast or too slow.

Not sure what your tractors PTO horsepower, but with hills id definitely recommend at least rear chains (minimum). I also had filled tires that added weight/traction to tires on ice and snow. If you need to constantly change the deflection on the chute....go with hydraulic rotaqtor...they do pay for themselves with not having to constantly stop the tractor.

My new tractor has loader mounted snowblower and blade but I'm also doing 2-1/2 miles of association roads on top of my property.