It's a gusher!

[ZionHill]

It\'s a gusher!

I have a Tractor Supply Minot (Jinma) 20 hp.

Yesterday I was moving a bunch of dirt from one place to another with my 3-point dirt scoop. I was working the machine pretty hard and suddenly I noticed hydraulic oil was frothing from the 3-point lift filler cap.

After inspecting it appears that the cap was just loose from the factory. I was able to tighten it. I didn't take the cap all the way off and look inside because it was getting dark and the oil was really hot. I think there is a dipstick on the cap, the manual is pretty cryptic.

What hydraulic oil should I top it off with? I don't want to eat the seals with the wrong stuff. Please advise

Thanks

 

[ZionHill]

It\'s a gusher!

I have a Tractor Supply Minot (Jinma) 20 hp.

Yesterday I was moving a bunch of dirt from one place to another with my 3-point dirt scoop. I was working the machine pretty hard and suddenly I noticed hydraulic oil was frothing from the 3-point lift filler cap.

After inspecting it appears that the cap was just loose from the factory. I was able to tighten it. I didn't take the cap all the way off and look inside because it was getting dark and the oil was really hot. I think there is a dipstick on the cap, the manual is pretty cryptic.

What hydraulic oil should I top it off with? I don't want to eat the seals with the wrong stuff. Please advise

Thanks

 

[greg_g]

Re: It\'s a gusher!

Remove the vent plug and check the dipstick. If the fluid is very light and clear - almost like water - you can top it up with any non-foaming AW32 hydraulic fluid. If it's yellowish and/or thicker looking gunk, you've still got the original fluid that it was shipped with. Get it out of there quick. Drain, flush with kerosene, refill with non-foaming AW32.

//greg//

 

[greg_g]

Re: It\'s a gusher!

Remove the vent plug and check the dipstick. If the fluid is very light and clear - almost like water - you can top it up with any non-foaming AW32 hydraulic fluid. If it's yellowish and/or thicker looking gunk, you've still got the original fluid that it was shipped with. Get it out of there quick. Drain, flush with kerosene, refill with non-foaming AW32.

//greg//

 

[ZionHill]

Re: It\'s a gusher!

Greg

When you say flush it with Kero do you fill it with kero and run it for a couple of minutes or do you just pour it through?

Thanks

 

[ZionHill]

Re: It\'s a gusher!

Greg

When you say flush it with Kero do you fill it with kero and run it for a couple of minutes or do you just pour it through?

Thanks

 

[greg_g]

Re: It\'s a gusher!

Overfill, drive around, splash it up real good inside so it gets the crud off the sump walls and corners. Exercise the hydraulics well, so kero flows through the whole system. Then drain through a screen to see what kinda big chunks come out. A screen also keeps the worst of the crud outa the bucket, just in case it's clean enough to flush something else out with. And the amount/type of crud that comes out can be an indicator as to whether or not a 2nd flush is needed. Might be a good time to check the condition of the suction screen too. If it has one that is, I've not seen one of these Minot variants yet.

//greg//

 

[greg_g]

Re: It\'s a gusher!

Overfill, drive around, splash it up real good inside so it gets the crud off the sump walls and corners. Exercise the hydraulics well, so kero flows through the whole system. Then drain through a screen to see what kinda big chunks come out. A screen also keeps the worst of the crud outa the bucket, just in case it's clean enough to flush something else out with. And the amount/type of crud that comes out can be an indicator as to whether or not a 2nd flush is needed. Might be a good time to check the condition of the suction screen too. If it has one that is, I've not seen one of these Minot variants yet.

//greg//

 

[michaelTS354]

Re: It\'s a gusher!

Greg,
Where do you buy that Shell hydraulic oil at for your Kama at? I have heard you recommend and say good things about it and I want to flush mine as well.

 

[michaelTS354]

Re: It\'s a gusher!

Greg,
Where do you buy that Shell hydraulic oil at for your Kama at? I have heard you recommend and say good things about it and I want to flush mine as well.

 

[JohnS]

Re: It\'s a gusher!

Keep an eye on it. Air bubbles and foaming, could also mean there is a leak on the suction side of the hyd pump, or indication of the pump failing. You can remove hyd fill plug, and watch the oil with a flashlight. Let the tractor warm-up, and run an additional 10 minutes. When my pump failed, it would spew within this time frame. If it is an issue, you should still be covered by TSC warrentee. Many would be interested in how TSC performs in that dept.

Please keep in mind, it may be just the type of fluid (prior posts) or just overfilled by TSC.

 

[JohnS]

Re: It\'s a gusher!

Keep an eye on it. Air bubbles and foaming, could also mean there is a leak on the suction side of the hyd pump, or indication of the pump failing. You can remove hyd fill plug, and watch the oil with a flashlight. Let the tractor warm-up, and run an additional 10 minutes. When my pump failed, it would spew within this time frame. If it is an issue, you should still be covered by TSC warrentee. Many would be interested in how TSC performs in that dept.

Please keep in mind, it may be just the type of fluid (prior posts) or just overfilled by TSC.

 

[greg_g]

Re: It\'s a gusher!

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Greg,
Where do you buy that Shell hydraulic oil at for your Kama at? I have heard you recommend and say good things about it and I want to flush mine as well. )</font>

Just looked in the yellow pages for the closest Shell distributor. But since originally buying the Spirax HD, Shell has retracted the claim that it's "safe for yellow metals". Gonna have to come up with a replacement gear oil. Think their Donax might work, but haven't dug into it too deep yet.

//greg//

 

[greg_g]

Re: It\'s a gusher!

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Greg,
Where do you buy that Shell hydraulic oil at for your Kama at? I have heard you recommend and say good things about it and I want to flush mine as well. )</font>

Just looked in the yellow pages for the closest Shell distributor. But since originally buying the Spirax HD, Shell has retracted the claim that it's "safe for yellow metals". Gonna have to come up with a replacement gear oil. Think their Donax might work, but haven't dug into it too deep yet.

//greg//

 

[Soundguy]

Re: It\'s a gusher!

Penzoil makes a 'gearplus gl4/gl5 gear lube that is yellow metal safe. i hear castrol does as well.

Soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

Re: It\'s a gusher!

Penzoil makes a 'gearplus gl4/gl5 gear lube that is yellow metal safe. i hear castrol does as well.

Soundguy

 

[greg_g]

Re: It\'s a gusher!

I'm going to have enough hours on this tractor to go synthetic soon anyway. It's my understanding that synthetics don't have the active sulpher ingredient(s) that are responsible for yellow metal etching by fossil fuel lubricants. It's the first 300 hours or so on these Chinese tractors that are critical with respect to selecting the right fossil fuel lubricant. Synthetics are just too slippery, and can actually impede the break in process. So after about 300 hours on fossil fuel lubricants that are labeled safe for yellow metal, the gears should be broken in sufficiently to switch to synthetics.

It's also my understanding that synthetics are all non-foaming as well. But if I've got any of the above wrong, I'd appreciate somebody letting me know - before I go out and buy hundred dollar buckets of oil.

//greg//

 

[greg_g]

Re: It\'s a gusher!

I'm going to have enough hours on this tractor to go synthetic soon anyway. It's my understanding that synthetics don't have the active sulpher ingredient(s) that are responsible for yellow metal etching by fossil fuel lubricants. It's the first 300 hours or so on these Chinese tractors that are critical with respect to selecting the right fossil fuel lubricant. Synthetics are just too slippery, and can actually impede the break in process. So after about 300 hours on fossil fuel lubricants that are labeled safe for yellow metal, the gears should be broken in sufficiently to switch to synthetics.

It's also my understanding that synthetics are all non-foaming as well. But if I've got any of the above wrong, I'd appreciate somebody letting me know - before I go out and buy hundred dollar buckets of oil.

//greg//