Ernie-32
Bronze Member
Hi there, just to warn and to inspire others; I had added twinwheels to the rear about 8 years ago to not get stuck in the mudd and prevent rolling over(rops). Now I live at another place in Southern France with hard clay grounds and short steep hills and pits. So last week one of my frontwheels got totally ripped off the axel, rim and all! See photos attached.
I decided to buy a new pair of wheels and add the old ones with some threadstuds (14mm, 10cm long and 4cm threaded studs in between rims, self locking nuts). Well it is such an improvement seeing and feeling how this already 40yo tractor still crawls over all the obstacles even when mowing, I had to make a video:
I also got my old motorbike tire change keys out and discovered that changing tires applying good grease and good sequence (especially keeping the tire pushed into the deep slot of the rim while pulling out on the valve side without damaging the inner tube), is not that hard! Keep the rim bolted on the axel, the tractor makes a perfect stable position to work at! Certainly a specialist tractor garage might be quicker and less of an effort, I was glad to not spend anymore money then I allready had. This whole project costed 420€ (rear wheels were 338€ at the time in 2017 but tires were second-hand).
By the way (this is more general) I found both rims lacked a protective band and inner tubes were damaged by pulling them from the rust that sat there. So at least I put a nice thick layer of Iseki-blue paint on them to protect the innertubes in the future.
I also discovered a very handy tool to reassure you do not loose track of your innertube's valve while refitting the outer tire. It comes from a moto-cross specialist and is nothing more than a handle with a steal cable that has a treaded part attached, grabbing the valve by its inner thread! This avoids also the damage you can do to the exterior thread of the valve while cursing it back on its place
I added some more photos to show that the studs in between the wheels have self-locking nuts and on the inside near the axel there is just about enough space to do this. Too much thread sticking out, damages stub axel.
Let me know if you'd like to copy this project, on my channel there's also a YT vid about the rear axels:
All the best from Southern France, Ernie.
I decided to buy a new pair of wheels and add the old ones with some threadstuds (14mm, 10cm long and 4cm threaded studs in between rims, self locking nuts). Well it is such an improvement seeing and feeling how this already 40yo tractor still crawls over all the obstacles even when mowing, I had to make a video:
By the way (this is more general) I found both rims lacked a protective band and inner tubes were damaged by pulling them from the rust that sat there. So at least I put a nice thick layer of Iseki-blue paint on them to protect the innertubes in the future.
I also discovered a very handy tool to reassure you do not loose track of your innertube's valve while refitting the outer tire. It comes from a moto-cross specialist and is nothing more than a handle with a steal cable that has a treaded part attached, grabbing the valve by its inner thread! This avoids also the damage you can do to the exterior thread of the valve while cursing it back on its place
I added some more photos to show that the studs in between the wheels have self-locking nuts and on the inside near the axel there is just about enough space to do this. Too much thread sticking out, damages stub axel.
Let me know if you'd like to copy this project, on my channel there's also a YT vid about the rear axels:
All the best from Southern France, Ernie.
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