Is there a trick to this?

[garren]

I'm ready to tackle another project with the new L2800 so I'm needing input again before I start.

I'm wanting to pour a concrete driveway so I will need to excavate the old gravel and dirt drive down 3-4 inches in some places. Other spots may actually need dirt added to level it.

I have tried in the past to level areas on the farm or to grade out areas to be flat. I can never seem to get this done with the FEL. It will either gouge when the front wheels go through a depression or lift up and leave a high spot if I run over or rock or something. I try to keep my hand on the handle and anticipate the dips etc in front of me...but it just doesn't work. Whats the trick or technique?

I read other threads that said a toothbar is a must. Is it?

Thanks in advance
- Garren

 

[sixdogs]

Garren,
I just typed a five paragraph response to this that the system "erased" when I wasn't logged in. In response to you, and in frustration with the erasure of my effort, here's the short answer.
No trick at all. Get a wide landscape rake and a tractor with draft control. You are a pro after 10 minutes. Forget the bucket. I've been at this effort for many years and the only system that has worked for me is the above.
You could sort-of make it work if your loader had a "float detent" and you were good at backing up. Rock rake is better

 

[alchemysa]

The best way to level loose dirt is to drive slightly over the pile, dip the bucket to a slightly downwards angle, drop the bucket to the ground using float, then gun the tractor backwards while holding it in float. Its a really good, and quite easy, technique and is well worth mastering.

The high spots have to be loosened up first. Attached is simple ripper I knocked together using lightweight fence tube. (You dont always have to fork out heaps for expensive attachments.). As for rocks, you just have to pick them up by hand.

 

[Soundguy]

FEL's are so usefull that people forget about other implements.. this job is a shining example of why BOX BLADES were invented.

soundguy

I'm ready to tackle another project with the new L2800 so I'm needing input again before I start.

I'm wanting to pour a concrete driveway so I will need to excavate the old gravel and dirt drive down 3-4 inches in some places. Other spots may actually need dirt added to level it.

I have tried in the past to level areas on the farm or to grade out areas to be flat. I can never seem to get this done with the FEL. It will either gouge when the front wheels go through a depression or lift up and leave a high spot if I run over or rock or something. I try to keep my hand on the handle and anticipate the dips etc in front of me...but it just doesn't work. Whats the trick or technique?

I read other threads that said a toothbar is a must. Is it?

Thanks in advance
- Garren

 

[KeithInSpace]

Soundguy and I were typing at the same time...Why wouldn't a box blade work? It isn't nearly as sensitive to vertical bumps as the FEL. I've had very, very good success getting large areas level with only a 4' wide box. Just grab a beer and drive over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over the same areas at all directions and it will smooth itself right out.

Concur with float feature to backdrag gravel and smooth some things out, but if you're trying to get any large-ish area (something your tractor can drive inside) smooth, the box blade is the way to go, IMHO.

 

[JerryG]

FEL's are so usefull that people forget about other implements.. this job is a shining example of why BOX BLADES were invented.

soundguy

Exactly.
Rip it with the shanks down on the box blade then scoop it up with the loader. Or you can raise the shanks after ripping and pull the spoils with the box if you are only moving the dirt a short distance. If I was doing it, I would just rip and scoop.

 

[canoetrpr]

I've got a box blade on order exactly for these types of jobs.

 

[btolle]

Box blades are great for that type of work.

The trick is to get the angle (top link) adjusted. I start out with the box blade parallel to the ground. It will drag a lot of material in the box which will help fill in low spots. Then tilt the box blade so that the front of the box is higher than the box (lengthen the top link) and it will finish smoothing without pulling much material around in the box.

And I agree with the back and forth, etc. Just take your time and keep going back and forth and it will level the road out.

 

[Bird]

I, too, favor the box blade for that kind of work, and if you happen to have hydraulic top 'n tilt, then it's really easy.

 

[Harry c]

I'm ready to tackle another project with the new L2800 so I'm needing input again before I start.

I'm wanting to pour a concrete driveway so I will need to excavate the old gravel and dirt drive down 3-4 inches in some places. Other spots may actually need dirt added to level it.

I have tried in the past to level areas on the farm or to grade out areas to be flat. I can never seem to get this done with the FEL. It will either gouge when the front wheels go through a depression or lift up and leave a high spot if I run over or rock or something. I try to keep my hand on the handle and anticipate the dips etc in front of me...but it just doesn't work. Whats the trick or technique?

I read other threads that said a toothbar is a must. Is it?

Thanks in advance
- Garren

I think your question was how to do this with the FEL not what other equipment could do it, correct?

Control the depth by controlling the dump angle of the bucket. Put the bucket down flat, put a little down pressure. Don't use the float because as the bucket starts to cut the front of the tractor will lift off the ground from the resistance. Tilt the bucket ever so slightly forward and slowly roll forward. When the bucket "bites in" roll it back ever so slightly to keep your cut shallow but don't roll it back so far it comes up out of the dirt. The plan is to shave off a thin layer much like a wood shaving with a pocket knife. The angle not the downpressure controls the cut. Takes practice. If you get a washboard started, just backdrag some loose dirt over the bumps, roll it in and continue. If it's really hard as a mix of dirt and gravel usually is, run over it with whatever kind of plow or scarifier you can come up with. I use a cultivator. Bucket teeth make it really easy. Same procedure, no plow required, much easier to control the cut. Also, low RPM will make the control easier as the bucket will react more slowly and reduce your overcorrection.

Didj'a ever see a box blade on a Road Job???

 

[Bird]

Didj'a ever see a box blade on a Road Job???

Yes, I have.

 

[2Botas]

I have not seen a box blade on a road crew, but i have seen alot of bulldozers. If the original poster had a bulldozer, i am sure he would not be asking about leveling with his FEL. Good point though.

 

[Harry c]

I have not seen a box blade on a road crew, but i have seen alot of bulldozers. If the original poster had a bulldozer, i am sure he would not be asking about leveling with his FEL. Good point though.

He asked about cutting grade with his FEL. He did not ask about a box blade. He did not ask about a bulldozer. He did not ask about a motorgrader either! The answer to any question related to grade on this forum seems to be answered by "position control" and "boxblade"... I know how to use my FEL and I have no need for a box blade. It takes much practice but the learning is fun. Keep hacking away and you'll get the feel.

 

[garren]

I think your question was how to do this with the FEL not what other equipment could do it, correct?

The plan is to shave off a thin layer much like a wood shaving with a pocket knife.

Yes, This is what I thought I needed to do. Shave off thin layers until I get the drive an even 4" below current grade. This is to match the existing drive approach that the city poured after a road repair.

I own a nice new box blade with scarifiers....so I guess, after reading all the posts, that I should drag the teeth through the hard packed gravel until loose.
Then shave and scoop with the FEL...Then drag some more if needed.

Who lives close by that wants to give a lesson?

_-Garren-_

 

[Tom_H]

He asked about cutting grade with his FEL. He did not ask about a box blade. He did not ask about a bulldozer. He did not ask about a motorgrader either! The answer to any question related to grade on this forum seems to be answered by "position control" and "boxblade"... I know how to use my FEL and I have no need for a box blade. It takes much practice but the learning is fun. Keep hacking away and you'll get the feel.

I've used FEL and BB for this and IMHO, box blade works a lot better, especially if there is position control or top 'n tilt. He might rent a box blade from a rental center. Leveling with just the FEL can be done, but would be time consuming contrasted with the BB.

If you are limited just to the FEL, the toothbar might help cut faster, but I'd take it off and use the front edge alone after your rough cuts. Driving backwards with a 25-30 degree angle is something you might try for leveling on your finishing passes.

Another thing to remember is to compact the surface well before making your pour. Having poor compaction will lead to settling and cracking. Setting rebar or remesh as well as making appropriate contraction joints will also help keep your sections monolithic.

 

[Ob1kubota]

I read other threads that said a toothbar is a must. Is it?

No, but what these other members have said it true, practice makes perfect it's an operating art that must be learned. Start with small bits and compact as you go. You'd be surprised what a good road bed you can build with patience and practice.

 

[LBrown59]

What works best for this a FEL or a Front Blade?

 

[KeithInSpace]

What works best for this a FEL or a Front Blade?

Relevant to the original question regarding smoothing out an area, a front blade would work better than a FEL, The "smoothing" part would be easier, but the "cutting" part would be a PITA without a toothbar on a FEL or scarifiers on a box blade...especially if it is hardpan or rocky. I couldn't imagine making much progress with a front blade alone on a project like this and swapping FEL to front blade is far too difficult for those of us only able to afford a single BX.

This exact project is where the unstoppable combination of a FEL and box blade comes in handy...rip it with the back, scoop it with the front, smooth it with the back, backdrag it with the front. Just that easy.

 

[LBrown59]

1* I was used to a front blade from using one on a garden tractor for 30 or 40 years, but using the FEL for this has always seemed more awkward to me than the front blade does.
2*
3*I can't either.
4* True but in my case since I have been fortunate enough to obtain both tractors and the implements I have for them I sure intend to take advantage of that arrangement.
BTW the way I agree with every thing you posted below.

1*Relevant to the original question regarding smoothing out an area, a front blade would work better than a FEL,
2*the "cutting" part would be a PITA without a tooth-bar on a FEL or scarifiers on a box blade...especially if it is hardpan or rocky.
3*I couldn't imagine making much progress with a front blade alone on a project like this.
4*swapping FEL to front blade is far too difficult for those of us only able to afford a single BX.

 

[LBrown59]

*I own a nice new box blade with scarifiers....so I guess, after reading all the posts, that I should drag the teeth through the hard packed gravel until loose.
Then shave and scoop with the FEL...Then drag some more if needed.
1*Who lives close by that wants to give a lesson?
_-Garren-_

*Yep that sums it up in a nut shell.
I don't have a Box Blade so i use a BX 1500 with a tiller and my BX 23 BackHoe to loosen things up.
1*I'm not close to you but I'm right next door to my neighbor whom I plan on helping to install a culvert and a 50 or 75 foot long drive way for his motor home.
Have you been trying to grade hard packed surfaces with just the feel-that don't work real well?