is my splitter's pump bad?

[rcw2256]

i was just out splitting some wood with my huskee 22 ton splitter when there was a terrible noise that began. it was like a grinding kind of noise like metal on metal. i shut down the motor and looked around, but didn't see any leaks or anything. i restarted the motor and the noise continued. not sure, but i think i saw a little spark where the motor shaft meets the pump. also, the valve wasn't really moving the cylinder either. if it was moving, it was really slow. is it time to buy a new pump? or is there something else that could be wrong? thanks

 

[J_J]

The coupling joining the pump to motor could have disintegrated.

Check the coupling real good.

Do you have any pressure. Check with hyd pressure gage.

Separate the pump and motor and see if the motor runs good.

 

[rcw2256]

thanks, i'm very handy but have little experience with hydraulics or splitter repair. can i just unbolt the four bolts and slide out the pump?

 

[5030]

Onbolt the compainion flange that joins the engine and pump. The coupling should be a LoveJoy style half coupling with a hard rubber insert. The insert takes up any misalignment and provides shock cushioning.

Your rubber might jave fallen apart, the inserts are replaceable and available at TSC. If the coupling is fine, spin the pump shaft by hand and see if you can feel anything unusual. The shaft should turn smoothly without much resistance. If it's leaking fluid at the outboard seal or you can feel resistance and/or it feels rough, it's time to rebuild or replace the pump.

Sometimes, but not always, it's cheaper to rebuild. I'd get a price from a reputable hydraulic service shop like a local Parker Hannifin dealer.

If you starve a pump under load or run it against the bypass for even a short time, it will destroy the internals.

I remember one time I wiped out a Parker Hannifin 90 gpm pump behind a 450 horsepower Caterpillar in about 15 seconds. The return hose got so hot it basically melted. The bypass check stuck under load. Don't take long under full head with no fluid flow.

 

[J_J]

Yes, you should be able to unbolt and slide the pump off the pump mount, or separate the two halves of the Lovejoy coupling if that is what they used.

Some pictures would help.

 

[5030]

Yes, you should be able to unbolt and slide the pump off the pump mount, or separate the two halves of the Lovejoy coupling if that is what they used.

Some pictures would help.

Split (half insert half) couplings are pretty much industry standard on smaller drives....and some larger ones as well.

I've seen a few viscous drives but not on low priced units.

 

[rcw2256]

thanks for the help guys. i took a look at the coupler and it is a lovejoy. i believe this may be my problem. i slowly pulled the motor to get the motor shaft to turn. while it was turning i looked at the coupler and found that the part that attaches to the pump was not moving, only the top part was moving. it appears that the coupler has been sheered. does this sound correct?

 

[J_J]

There should be a rubber part between the two halves

 

[rcw2256]

just took the pump off. the upper part of the coupler has three tabs facing down. the lower part of the coupler attached to the pump is smooth on top. i'm guessing it should have three tabs facing up. there was a rubber piece in the middle that only had three teeth, one of which was wearing. now, do i need to buy a whole new coupler or just the bottom part and a spider?

and by the way, i started the motor again when disconnected from the pump and its fine.

 

[crazyal]

Have you tried turning the pump by hand? It's possible your pump seized up and the coupler broke.