Is it too early to re-seed this "new Lawn"?

[Rick5050]

I tilled and seeded 1 acre of Tall Fescue grass over Labor Day weekend. The seed has germinated and I have a fair amt of young and tender grass as of today (09-26-08). The issue is that I did not read the instructions on the grass bag completely and only put down 1/3 the amount recommended for a NEW lawn and therefore the grass is not as full or thick as it needs to be.

My Question: Given this lawn is only about 3 weeks old, is it too early to over-seed with the correct amt of seed w/out damaging the grass or root systems that are currently in place?

 

[Gary Fowler]

I think you would just be wasting your seed and time. I dont think the grass would have time to establish enough root system to live through the winter months. At best you may have a month before the first frost. Better wait till spring and then reseed the existing lawn. You want hurt the existing grass system. Since you wont be able to cover the new seed, you will need to water it in well and frequently to help the seed germinate and start rooting.

 

[westbrooklawn]

From now until about October 15 is an excellent time to overseed fescue in your area. I would run a core aerator over the area a couple of times, and spread about 6# of fescue seed per 1000 square ft. of area. If you haven't already done so, fertilize with a good "starter" fertilizer at the rated recommended on the bag. Now is also a good time to add lime if a soil test indicates it is required. Fescue will germinate in 10-15 days, and root growth will continue over the winter. Waiting until spring results in a root system which is too weak to withstand the summer heat in your area.

 

[Rick5050]

In your opinion, if an over-seeder implement was used to get the seed below surface level and then cover it ... would that solve the frost issue?

Would the penetrating the ground with the spikes on the over-seeder cause an issue with the existing (25 day old) grass root system?

 

[myyaz33]

If you wait till spring you really close your window for applying pre-emergent herbicides to reduce weeds. I think you are safe enough (time wise) to scratch the surface a bit with a rake and throw out some seed and have it going before winter. Did you put any starter fert when you seeded the first time? How tall is the new grass now?

 

[ScottFarm]

For our area this is the best time to seed. Spring seeding usually doesn't work as well if we have a dry summer. Most seed late september to mid October. Prepare your seed, apply your seed. Do not buy seed for TN that comes from Oregon or Washington State. That fescue seed just doesn't seem to grow well east of the Mississippi. I'd look for a local seed. Make sure you call the Cooperative Extension office and get soil test boxes to test your soil. Send that to the University and then as your spreading the seed apply the correct nutrients. You'll need a good winterizer fertizilzer like a 15-30-15 mix. Somewhere close to that. It's the P that really makes the roots grow. Also If you need lime you want to apply hydrated ag lime on top of your seeds. It's fast acting and works better. If the pH of your soil is 5 or less grass won't grow well.

Good luck

 

[ScottFarm]

If your gonna overseed it I'd just walk over it with a shoulder spreader. It should still do well. Getting your nutrients right this fall is the main thing.

 

[3RRL]

Right now is the perfect time for over seeding, at least it is out here in Southern California. I'll be doing some this coming week. I too just started a lawn that needs added seed. I'll most like use a hand held seed spreader.

 

[KeithInSpace]

I don't know squat about what the officials say about seeding...only what I learned in my lawn rehab last year.

I'd say that you're still good on adding seed. I'd go with the core aerator first, but that would mean that you'd be "tractoring" all over your other young grass. Your call. If you did that, I'd go ahead and spread hay, calling this new seed application the real thing.

Your alterntive is to simply seed now and supplement what you have on the ground. If you have a sprinkler system, I'd hit it 3 times a day for 5 or 8 minutes a zone...the idea is to keep the seed wet.

In either case, I'd apply (or re-apply) your starter fertilizer at recommended rates.

I'd do all this now for no reason other than that doing it in the spring really kills your pre-emergent schedule. I didn't apply my pre-emergent like I should have this spring and have been struggling with it all year.

In my rehab project, I did did the work the first week of October and had a beautiful lawn that stayed green all winter. My only trouble was leaf removal from the young growth...that was a real pain.

I purchased all my seed, fertilizer, and advice from my local Lesco dealer (now John Deere Landscaping, I think). The quality of their seed mixes were top notch...MUCH better than any big-box seed I've ever purchased.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Fescue.com

Cool season grasses such as Fescue, grow best when the soil temperatures are between 50 and 65 degrees F. These temperatures usually occur when the daytime air temperatures are between 60 and 75 degrees. High temperatures of summer can cause these plants to go dormant and thus planting during summer is asking for problems. Thus start planting your cool season grass seeds when the temperatures reach 75 and are dropping as fall / winter approaches. Or have reached 60 and are rising in the spring. Planting in summer can occur, but irrigation becomes a critical factor in establishment. Planting when night time temperatures are above 70 should be avoided

Dormancy often occurs in Fescues growth at temperatures above 90 and below 50 degrees. Basically they stop growing when dormancy occurs. Also, be aware that a freezes and/or frost can damage or kill immature seedlings that have not had enough growing time to harden off to survive a return to dormancy.