Is it rust or fungus in my fuel?

[skipperbrown]

A water filter and a second particle filter on your storage tanks should polish your fuel and prevent any crap from getting into your tractor. If the flow slows, you need new filters. If possible, keep your storage tank topped off. I would try a biocide and see if that helps.

 

[LouNY]

Most tank filters have a pressure relief bypass it is quite easy to plug a tank filter and have it bypassing unfiltered fuel into your tank.
I wouldn't think you would have a rust problem in a year old tank, not all algae is the blooming style some is more of "just" sludge looking.
As previously stated try a biocide and new and more filtration.

 

[Wagtail]

Most tank filters have a pressure relief bypass it is quite easy to plug a tank filter and have it bypassing unfiltered fuel into your tank.
I wouldn't think you would have a rust problem in a year old tank, not all algae is the blooming style some is more of "just" sludge looking.
As previously stated try a biocide and new and more filtration.

As an important note: doing a biocide treatment routine (according to the instructions of the diesel biocide product) will kill off the infestation. The tank & lines (at the least) will still need to be cleaned out to remove the 'dead' biological material. If not it will continue to clog the system, especially the fuel filter.

Fortunately, here in Aus, we have access to a product called "Fuel Doctor" Home - Fuel DoctorsFuel Doctors This stuff actually breaks down the biologicals into such microscopic proportions that it will flow through the filter to be burnt up in the engine.

 

[ovrszd]

That type of treatment is preferred.

 

[Complete Turf Care]

This is what I have on my transfer tank. I changed the filter cartridge today.



I also picked up this bottle at my local CarQuest. I filled my transfer tank up this morning then added this 'cleaner'. It cost about $14 plus tax and treats 100 gallons, which is the amount my tank holds.

 

[ovrszd]

Here's hoping you can get control of this problem!!!! Keep us posted on progress!!!

 

[geohorn]

Here's what we were taught in flight school: Jet fuel and diesel will feed microbes which are introduced to the fuel tank as fuel is consumed in the "ullage" (that's the air in the tank above the fuel). When the tank walls cool (such as at night or when the outside air temp changes) water will condense on the tank walls and run down eventually ending up in the bottom of the tank (water is heavier than the fuel.) The microbes live in the water. They eat the fuel. They defecate wastes that becomes a gelatinous-mass which will clog filters and cause corrosion in almost all metals. It can also damage fuel injectors.

Preventive treatments are available (we used JB Biobor in jets, which was a 20-Mule Team Borax product) which is added to the fuel during re-fueling. If an infection is already present the treatment should be increased in concentration per the product-labelling (being agitated by adding the product to the fuel during forceful re-fueling) and allowed to remain for 48 hours. The additive should be diluted in concentration in accordance with the engine mfr's recommendations by adding more fuel after the waiting-period. (In the jets I flew, the concentration for an existing infestation was 270 PPM (a "shock" treatment) and then it was diluted to 135 PPM for flight.) A preventive treatment was put into the tanks during re-fueling about once a month after the "shock" treatment was performed to prevent re-infestation. I am a newbie to diesel tractors (having lived until now on gasoline) and if i begin to store diesel I plan to keep my fuel stored with the preventive product at the lower concentration to prevent an infestation from becoming established.

Hope this helps.

 

[Complete Turf Care]

Here's what we were taught in flight school: Jet fuel and diesel will feed microbes which are introduced to the fuel tank as fuel is consumed in the "ullage" (that's the air in the tank above the fuel). When the tank walls cool (such as at night or when the outside air temp changes) water will condense on the tank walls and run down eventually ending up in the bottom of the tank (water is heavier than the fuel.) The microbes live in the water. They eat the fuel. They defecate wastes that becomes a gelatinous-mass which will clog filters and cause corrosion in almost all metals. It can also damage fuel injectors.

Preventive treatments are available (we used JB Biobor in jets, which was a 20-Mule Team Borax product) which is added to the fuel during re-fueling. If an infection is already present the treatment should be increased in concentration per the product-labelling (being agitated by adding the product to the fuel during forceful re-fueling) and allowed to remain for 48 hours. The additive should be diluted in concentration in accordance with the engine mfr's recommendations by adding more fuel after the waiting-period. (In the jets I flew, the concentration for an existing infestation was 270 PPM (a "shock" treatment) and then it was diluted to 135 PPM for flight.) A preventive treatment was put into the tanks during re-fueling about once a month after the "shock" treatment was performed to prevent re-infestation. I am a newbie to diesel tractors (having lived until now on gasoline) and if i begin to store diesel I plan to keep my fuel stored with the preventive product at the lower concentration to prevent an infestation from becoming established.

Hope this helps.

That makes sense. I plan to add some treatment to my transfer tank on a regular basis from now on....