Intro and need some pointers here for Yanmar 1300

[78sharpshooter]

I recently bought my first house and it is on 1.5 acres (very flat) and have always wanted a tractor. I love diesel (93 F350 Crewcab 4x4 w/ATS turbo; 86 Jetta 1.6Diesel turbo 48 mpg's) so I was fixated on a diesel tractor. After only a couple weeks of searching I found what appears to have been a great deal; Yanmar 1300 with box scraper? I checked blowby and it was not alarming, it starts up pretty easily, everything seems to work except for the raising and lowering of the box scraper, no strange noises from the gears so for just over $1100 (for this much I would be happy just riding it around the property), I decided to grab it. I did note that when checking the transmission fill hole some milky orangish fluid came out so I am wondering if water got into that oil or something. I am fairly wrench savvy so I am prepared to take on the needed fixes here. The manual is on its way but I was hoping to get a jumpstart on dealing with these 2 issues and perhaps some input on how to best use this box scraper. AC

 

[careyo63]

You need to change the Hyd.fluid and clean the screen/Filter. Jd 303 or equivelent. the screen location isn't listed on a parts diagram on Hoyes but you most likely also need to change your Fuel Filter,Air Filter and oil.give them a call and they will get you what you need. Thier add is at the top of the page.

Carey

 

[California]

Carey pretty well covered it. Until somebody posts who owns one ... Yanmar's hydraulic filter on the old ones is simply a mesh screen inside where the hydraulic pump's feed line (larger pipe) leaves the transmission. And on many models you remove a triangle inspection plate to get the screen out. Some models I think you detach that large pipe - anybody know about YM1300?

Many of us have had to replace that screen but if you are lucky you can wash and reinstall it. You don't want that milky water/hydraulic milkshake in the transmission so changing the fluid plus cleaning or replacing the screen is the first thing I would do.

You have about a 50/50 chance that fresh fluid will solve the 3-point lift problem. You might need to put fresh piston seals in the hydraulic lift cylinder (on top of the transmission) or the cylinder might even be corroded from water, requiring overhaul or replacement. Look at the parts diagram on Hoye's website.

Water in the transmission is usually attributed to a worn out shift lever boot, easy to replace.

You are going to be astonished at how long that thing runs on a tank of diesel. Maybe a whole season.

Welcome aboard!

 

[deepNdirt]

Hi 78Sharpshooter and Welcome aboard.:thumbsup:
what has already been advised by Careyo63 & California is pretty much the routine we all have to go through when first getting our YM's does the lift arms attempt to come up at all when the BB is Not attached?

 

[78sharpshooter]

Thanks for the advice. Is there an equivalent engine model for the US so I can try to get parts locally if needed? Seems napa and kragen have filters and such for YM1XX series. Is it a 2TR13?

 

[78sharpshooter]

Nothing moves when rocking the lever back and forth attempting to raise or lower it. I could not find the parts diagram on hoyer or hydraulic cylinder seals.

Does anyone know what the GPM rating is for the pump?

Hi 78Sharpshooter and Welcome aboard.:thumbsup:
what has already been advised by Careyo63 & California is pretty much the routine we all have to go through when first getting our YM's does the lift arms attempt to come up at all when the BB is Not attached?

 

[PBYAN2]

Have owned a 1301 for about 8 years now.
Thinking should be very close to 1300.
Have never had the smallest problem with it, Except replaceing the battery 3 times.
So may not be any help at all on yours. But make sure the valve under the seat is open.

By the way, Welcome aboard.

Quick look on mine. Is a place under the transmission crossways.
Where the big Hyrdo line goes. 3 bolt triangle with line in the middle.
That will be screen.
You gonna have to take loose the Rubber part of the line to get this all apart.
Do not mess up that Rubber hose if you can help it. Is hard to come by, At least around here.
Found this out the hard way on my YM2000.
Has same hose as the 1301.

 

[78sharpshooter]

made some progress here and got 9 qts of type f atf and flushed the transmission. this flush came out like a strawberry smoothie and the subsequent flush was also like a smoothie. am i missing another drain plug besides the yellow one opposite the screen? the hydraulics work now and the box raised and lowered nice and smooth. the plastic fuel filter bowl was cracked so i just pulled it off and cleaned it really well abd then scraped on either side of the crack to get to clean plastic, then quickly ran a flame over the area to oxidize it and then used a small square of 6oz fiberglass with some gflex epoxy and it works great. also painted the exhaust flat black with 500f engine enamel. i am really looking forward to dragging that box around tomorrow so i need to get a bit more valvoline 710.

 

[Yandaddy1110]

Did you say automatic transmission fluid type F? There may be a problem here.

 

[California]

I doubt ATF-F will hurt it short term used as a flushing fluid, but you really should run Universal Tractor Fluid after you get the transmission cleaned out. Tractor Supply's cheaper UTF meets Yanmar's spec (Deere 303) and TSC also sells a premium grade.

My Yanmar's flluid must have been in there for years judging by the sediment, probably dust, but I didn't find any evidence of water. I poured some diesel in the top and out the bottom to flush the sediment.