info on my Hinomoto E2304

[case685]

Hi Everybody First, I'd like to say thanks for all the info I have gotten so far about my Hinomoto. I was leaning towards a Kubota L2201 but after much deliberation I decided on the Hino (3600hrs with loader and tiller, plus power steering!!!) because I was getting so much more for the money.
Anyway, I have a few things about the tractor I'm not sure of and was hoping some of you guys could help me out. First, the front axle on my tractor (its 4wd) is different from some other E2304's that I have seen, in particular one thats being sold on Ebay currently by Josef"s Tractor Co. The knuckle on mine is squat and round with a cast arm over it. Also the gear shift on mine is directly below the steering wheel instead of in front of the seat. The only other main difference I could see is that I have 3 shifters on the left side between the seat and fender as opposed to 2. I'm mentioning all this in the hope that someone could pin down whether I have an earlier model or later and whether this makes any difference as to what manuals I get (ie: is this tractor closer to a MF 1030 or a DA 5220 and if it has the basic transmission or the syncro).
The one other question I have is this. When the tractor sits at idle for a few minutes and then is revved up it tends to throw out a more than normal amount of whitish smoke. I'm quessing that at 3600hrs it may be overdue for new injectors but I'm not sure.
Any insights people have regarding this will be much appreciated. Thanks. Gerry

 

[Springdrl]

Gerry,

I own a 2304 as well and have worked an earlier model quite a bit.

White spoke is often an indication of water in the combustion chamber, either being present in the fuel or a leaking head gasket. While even the thought of a leaking head gasket is enough to send shivers down you spine when talking about an automobile, it's much easier on these little tractors. The only way you'll know is to do a compression check to see if one or two cylinders are loosing compression more than the other(s).

As someone once told me, when it comes to diesel engine, black smoke is good, blue means you're buring oil, and white means the presence of water or moisture.

As an example, I mentioned working on an earlier model. The tractor is owned by a good friend who just didn't know better about keeping water out of his diesel, which often made it difficult to start. His solution was to use a rag with a little gas held up to the intake it. Well, let's just say he got away with it for just so long before it blew the head gasket. I was able to order one from a local Massey dealer and installed it for him. After about three or four minutes of cranking and lots of white smoke, it started and has been runing like a champ ever since.

As you mentioned, the Hinomoto crosses over to the Massey 1030. I have been using Wix filters on mine and they fit perfectly.

I think one of the most overlooked maintenance items on these tractors is the need to change the oil in the fuel pump. I can help with that too if you need it.

 

[case685]

Hi Springdrl
Thanks for your answer to my post. Its funny you should mention water in the fuel. I realized not long after I posted that the cap on my tank wouldn't tighten down and after it rained (what little we've been getting ) I saw water sitting in the tank strainer. I looked in a parts catalog for a DA 5220 and realized the gasket that goes under cap was missing. I promptly ordered the gasket from my AGCO dealer and just put it on a few hours ago. The cap still won't tighten down so I guess I need one of them also ( $46.00 CDN-yikes!!). I'm gonna wait until I get the actual parts catalog for my tractor because the gasket didn't seem to fit all that well and I'm worried that the #'s might not cross reference properly from the 5220 to the E2304.
My plan for now is keep the cap covered, drain the fuel tank, put in fresh fuel and change the fuel filter. Hopefully that will fix the white smoke problem. I have also arranged to get the tractor compression tested just to be sure since the dealer I bought it from allows a 90 day window to exchange it for another machine if there are any problems with it.
I have put about 6 hours on the tractor tilling and messing around with the loader and other than the white smoke at idle ( goes away at higher rpm ) I'm really happy with it so I hope it tests well. Thanks again. Gerry

 

[buppy69]

There were 2 runs of 2302/2304. The second run is what MF called 1030L. It has the syncro transmission with the 3 levers you're referring to. The gear shift position is closer to the dash whereas the standard transmission is closer to the seat. I've owned both and they're both great tractors. 3600 is a lot of hours, though.

Eugene

 

[case685]

HI Bubby69 Thanks for the information. Yeah your right 3600 hrs is pretty high for a grey market tractor considering that one of thier main drawing points is the low hours they generally have.
I'm hoping that a compression test will give me some reassurance that I've got a good engine. If its been properly cared for I'm assuming I can get at least 2-3000 more hours from it. The dealer told me these Toyosha engines are as good as any of the other Japanese built diesels. Hope he's right.
Can anybody tell me what kind of numbers I should be looking for when it comes to compression levels. Thanks . Gerry

 

[buppy69]

398-454 PSI with a minimum allowable PSI of 327. By the way, the syncro models also have disc brakes.

Eugene

 

[case685]

Hey Eugene Thanks for those numbers. The mechanic is coming wednesday or thursday to run the test. I'll let you know how it turns out. Gerry

 

[EFC]

If it fires right off without glow plugs you have already done the test.

Buck

 

[case685]

Hi Buck Its interesting you should say that. When the mechanic came around today he started the tractor up ( it fired up quickly) and then told me there was no point running a compression test since a tractor with poor compression would never start that well.
I had exchanged the fuel and fuel filter earlier which cleared up the white smoke issue. I also replaced the oil in the injector pump as advised by Springdrl. ( the oil that drained out was pretty thin and smelled like diesel fuel so I hope that the pump hasn't been adversly affected ) The mechanic gave the tractor a going over and said it seemed to be in good running order. He also stated the engine didn't seem to be producing any blowby which was a good sign.
He said if I wanted I could bring it down to the shop and put it on the dyno to see if its still producing its rated horsepower. I'm wondering if any of you guys think thats worthwhile doing. Thanks . Gerry

 

[Springdrl]

Maybe one of you guys can help me with a question concerning my 2304.

I got a good deal on it because both of flex joints in the front wheel drive were broken. I removed the drive gears from the hubs, replaced open bearings with sealed types and have been driving it as a 2WD tractor. If she continues to hold up well, I'll probably invest in the parts to repair the front drive.

In the meantime, can someone advise me as to which position (forward or back) of the lever on the side of the seat controls the 4WD. I've been able to identify the high-low and main shift levers but with the front drive out, I really can't tell if the 4WD is engaged. I want to keep the front drive axle and differential disengaged for the time being.

Thanks in advance.

 

[case685]

Hi Springdrl
If your E2304 is the later version as I believe mine is with the three levers on the left side of the seat then I'm pretty sure the 4WD lever needs to be back to be dis-engaged. I can't say this with 100% certainty because somebody painted over the decals on my fender but the DA5220 operators manual I looked at showed it as being that way.
While we are on this subject can anybody tell me if its necessary to clutch when taking the tractor in or out of 4WD. Mine shifts pretty smoothly in and out without clutching but I'm not sure if it hurts the tranny to do that. Gerry

 

[Springdrl]

Gerry,
Thanks for the reply.

I've been referencing a copy of the operator's manual for the Massey 1030 for information and tips with my 2304. This is what it says about controlling the 4WD.

IMPORTANT: Be sure to disengage clutch and allow all tractor motion to stop before engaging or disengaging four-wheel drive. Avoid using four-wheel drive on hard surface as the front tires "over speed" slightly as compared to rear tires to assist steering.

Let also say that my tractor doesn't have the speed in higher gears that I have seen with earlier models. For example, my friend's E280 (which appears to be precursor to the 2304) has a greater speed in the high gear range. Not sure but maybe I have a transmission issue or simply don't know which positions to use with the three shift levers near the left side of the seat.

Dan

 

[case685]

Hi Dan Thanks for the 4WD info. I wish I could help you re: the transmission speeds. I ran mine at high speed and have to agree that its not overly fast. I find the creeper gear to be excellent though and the 4 ranges give you lots of choices. How does your friends lowest gear compare to yours? If its not as slow maybe the E2304 is just geared lower overall. Thanks again. Gerry

 

[Springdrl]

Gerry,
I believe you hit the nail on the head. His E280 doesn't have the very low "creepping" speeds found on the 2304. I got a little seat time yesterday and confirmed that all ranges were working fine.

Thanks again.

Dan

 

[case685]

Hi Everbody Just wondering if anybody has any advice to offer as to whether my E2304 is capable of handling round bales (around 600lbs). It has an Auto Laser loader with support rails running to the rear axle and the front axle has the supports on it also. After reading some previous posts re: the aluminum bell housing and front axle issues on these I don't want to push my luck. Thanks. Gerry