Coyote machine
Super Member
- Joined
- May 4, 2009
- Messages
- 7,641
- Location
- Southern VT
- Tractor
- 22 SANY SY 50U, '10 Kioti DK 40se/hst KL-401 FEL, loaded tires, KB-2485 bhoe, Tuffline TB160 BB, Woods QA forks, MIE Hydraulic bhoe thumb & ripper tooth, Igland 4001 winch, & GR-20 Log Grapple. Woods BBX72" Brush Mower. Diamondplate aluminum canopy
I agree with this. Coyote Machine always gives me insightand getting opinions from others is why TBN is so terrific.
Thanks for the compliment, I appreciate it.
I want the OP to consider gathering spec sheets from the various brands, diesel or gas, 4wd or 2. zero turn and other type mowers, especially since you live far from actual dealers. And search here for the recent spring threads about mower selection. There are some excellent discussions, as I mentioned earlier, that cover all the basics, and may give you further ideas toward your eventual solution. Also, commercial grade machines, like my Scag Wildcat can sometimes be bought used at very reasonable cost compared to new.
Mine had 200 hours, which is nothing for a commercial grade mower. I've only put about 150+ hours on since, one belt, one set of blades, a battery and a few oil/filter changes, etc. in around 5-6 years. Still looks and runs like new.
And the grass you mentioned at the height your said - 6+" tall, I believe, would give your 'old' mower some challenges. Having swivel front wheel spin out is not an unusual thing for any zero turn; it's not so much about lack of experience, it is about capabilities of the mower to handle slopes, wet grass, etc. The Ventracs and PowerTracs are specialty mowers designed to handle rough steep terrain. They are definitely worth looking into regardless of budgetary concerns, because they could save your butt, and if you value it, then the price paid is well worth it. On the other hand, if you go a different route and it is unsafe just because of design and cost considerations, that IMHO would be a bad decision in both short and long run.
You just described a scary situation where you had to do some very unsafe things and involved your wife in trying to save your butt. I'm sure neither of you wants a repeat of that scenario. If in a similar situation let the safety cut the engine. There is no winning with spinning blades, only loosing. First thing always cut power, pick up mower in pieces later if needed, not parts of yourself. Too close calls are a warning that something is not right. In your case it sounds like it's the mower and terrain, not the OP. You can always buy another mower or fix one. Safety is paramount.
I nearly lost my son to a horrendous crash this past fall. He was alone, lost control of his Toyota Tacoma, hit a tree and landed back in the road with the truck totalled and facing the opposite direction, with the tree on top of the truck. There was gas all over the place and he's lucky there was no fire.
He walked away, both air bags went off, the windshield was destroyed and his seat belt locked. At over 6'5" he's lucky as he:: he didn't hit the windshield, or have any real injuries. I could care less about the truck; what was important is that he survived and the truck saved his life.
The point is, life and limbs are most important. There's always another mower, choose safe over budgetary concerns if possible. I know it's not an easy choice, but it can be a very important one worth investing in the correct tool for the task at hand.:thumbsup:
