IH TD20 B bull dozer

[mdw3141]

I am going to have to remove the track to replace the idler wheel tensioner seal. I have not broken a track before, I has told to put a lot of heat to it and thought I would get a second opinion.

Any advice?

 

[TraderMark]

You need to know if you have sealed track pins or not.
If you have sealed pins, there will be a link in the track that bolts together. You remove the 4 bolts holding the track pad on that link and the link will separate in what looks like gator teeth. You need to look for a link that has a diagonal line from a point near the track pad down to the track pin.

If you don't have sealed track pins, you'll need to locate the master link pin. It usually has a dimple in the center of it.
You'll have to heat the both halves of the link(inside link half and outside link half) around this master pin and drive the pin out. This is easiest to do with the master link resting on either the rear sprocket or the front idler.

Hope this helps.

Mark

 

[mdw3141]

TraderMark

Thanks for the hand, I know for certain I have the master link with the dimple that differs from the others, it appears to be that the link is sealed to the linkage at the two outer linkage halves, but I suppose it would be hard not to heat the whole thing.

I have a berry torch so I can certainly apply the heat, red hot if need be, is that much usually necessary? Will the link ordinarily be reusable? Also I have 10 and 20 pound sledges, sound like enough? I get on it Sunday morning weather permitting, sounds like fun.

Oh, unfortunately I stopped the thing almost 2 feet behind the idler on top, I was not thinking stability, had other things in mind, live and learn, thanks again, Mark

 

[fieldserviceengineer]

TraderMark

Thanks for the hand, I know for certain I have the master link with the dimple that differs from the others, it appears to be that the link is sealed to the linkage at the two outer linkage halves, but I suppose it would be hard not to heat the whole thing.

I have a berry torch so I can certainly apply the heat, red hot if need be, is that much usually necessary? Will the link ordinarily be reusable? Also I have 10 and 20 pound sledges, sound like enough? I get on it Sunday morning weather permitting, sounds like fun.

Oh, unfortunately I stopped the thing almost 2 feet behind the idler on top, I was not thinking stability, had other things in mind, live and learn, thanks again, Mark

Split master links are not common to an old tractor like that. Sealed and lubricated track links would use that.

As a long ago former Caterpillar field mechanic, I have had to split many a track with the spike maul and a 20 # sledge. Anything less is wasting your time.

A 20# sledge and a spike maul will knock the master pin out. No need to heat with a torch. That old type of track link has steel spring washers as "seals". Heating will not damage them other than to lose spring tension.

Don't have a spike maul? Get some brave individual to hold a long steel pin that is smaller than the diameter of the master pin. Hold that long "punch" by welding a handle onto it. BE SURE TO WEAR SAFETY GLASSES. I and others can attest to the physical effects of small pieces of steel imbedded in your body. Usually easy to find on an X-ray. Not so easy to find when the doctor is hunting around for the piece...not much fun either.

 

[mdw3141]

Well I have two major problems I hope someone can weigh in on.

1st the track would not break with a 20# sledge hitting a 1" diameter soft iron rod on the master link, I have attached photos of the problem link, I would enjoy any helpful comments.

Also I need to get valves for a DT 429 IH engine without spending a $1000 for 12 valves if you can believe that, any help will be greatly appreciated, Mark

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Well I have two major problems I hope someone can weigh in on.

1st the track would not break with a 20# sledge hitting a 1" diameter soft iron rod on the master link, I have attached photos of the problem link, I would enjoy any helpful comments.

Also I need to get valves for a DT 429 IH engine without spending a $1000 for 12 valves if you can believe that, any help will be greatly appreciated, Mark

I have only split a track 1 time, on a Case. We got the surrounding area of the pin RED HOT. Knocked the pin out with an 8lb sledge. I would think that a good machine shop should be able to get you an aftermarket valve without having to purchase an entire set. :shocked:

Good luck

 

[mdw3141]

Actually I would like an entire set, and the machinist and I are looking high and low, that is the problem with antiques.

On top of the that the valve is sodium filled if you can believe that.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I would not put sodium filled valves in that have been sitting around for all these years. There is a good chance that they would not last very long. Oh, if they are sodium filled, $1000 would be a great price. Just get some valves other than the sodium filled ones and call it good.

Just my :2cents:

 

[mdw3141]

Thanks for the input, however I have not been able to find standard type after market valves at least not yet, thanks again, Mark

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Keep looking, there has to be something that will work, maybe with a little modification.