IH 1300 9' bar sickle mower - Rowse Rakes Hydraulic Lift Kit Install

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OK as promised here we go. First the Rowse contact information. Ryan Ballagh, ROWSE HYDRAULIC RAKES CO., 84504 STATE HWY 11, BURWELL NE 68823,1-800-652-1912,(308)348-2276. Ryan was great to work with and Eric in the shop is the man on the install questions. You can't ask for better folks. Home - Rowse Rakes


I know the first question you have is why these folks. Well First IH made the 1300 mower and the pull behind 1100 model. Then Case bought IH and added their name. Then they went bust and a company called New Idea picked up the line. After they folded the Rowes folks picked up the patent and are still making the nearly identical units with just a few improvements. However, this is the good part - their parts fit and are available and they also rebuild the heads. Prices seem very fair and they do quality work.

View attachment Install instructions.pdf

I am posting the instructions - not the best, but using this and what they have online, you can figure it out. Also as I have an older IH 1300, I had to have some pieces added to my J frame for the kit to work. If you order be sure to look at your frame and let them know. The next photos after the instructions are of my original J frame and then the precut pieces and final welding of them in place. As I don't weld I had a pro do it for $20.

 

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Next photo is of the kit itself as it arrived.

The kit is very complete, but I did need to have them send out the big washer and 3/8 bolt for the vertical shaft that needed to be drilled and tapped - you can probably get these at any good hardware store. They are parts #20 and #21 on the install instructions.

 

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I got started today by re attaching the J frame to the sickle head and then attaching parts #1 and #6 using the supplied bolts. You should first tighten the bolts to the J Frame that attached the head to the frame. Part #1 goes inside the frame and the bolts run from outside the Head arm through the frame, through part #1 and then the nuts. Then attach plat #6 that sandwiched the J frame between them. Plate #6 only fits one way, so be sure to check that the bolts line up with part #1. I made sure everything was tight before continuing.

 

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OK the next step gets a bit tricky as it is not very clear. While I did not get pictures, if you have taken the J farm off you know how it attached to the main body casting. Part #19 needs to fit over the bolts that go through the swing arm blocks. First thing is to replace the inside zerk with the tall one provided in the kit, pointing the zerk towards the balanced head. Then I set the lower blocks under the swing arm (with bolts sticking up and supported underneath) making sure to grease as I went. I then added the proper shims, greased the top of the swing arm and then manhandled the main body over the bolts.

I then set part#19 over the vertical shaft and bolts and tightened it down. I then added part #26 to this frame. Do not drill the 1/2 in hole yet though. First drill and tap the shaft for parts #20 and 21, and install the spring lever and bolt down, as this will slightly move the location of the 1/2 hole that needs to be drilled in the main body casting. Note the shaft is mild steel, so drilling and tapping was very easy.

The third and 4th photos show the 3/8 bolt an washer on the vertical shaft and the lower bolt that needed the hole drill into the frame - part# 26. The last photo is of the raised zerk orientation.

This is as far as I got today - tomorrow the remaining parts will be installed.
BTW I am doing this work on dolly carts - like you can move furniture with. However I think I have overloaded them a bit :laughing:

 

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Lets continue with day 2
This was a bit tough and I did it wrong the first time, and that is the spring pack install. I had the base on a cart and I should have had it hooked up to the tractor. With the unit raised and head lowered it was a snap, but I struggled with it. It is critical that the bolt head face the J frame, otherwise the nut will contact the J frame and prevent it from rotating properly. Remember the bolt head needs the face the J frame and NOT be as shown in the photos

 

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The rest of the install of the cylinder and connecting hardware was straight forward. I did heed to use a BFH to drive the one cylinder pin in place. Even the securing rod was well designed.

 

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Last is the unit set up and ready to run on my tractor. I got a new knife sections installed and set the hold downs once I found the Knife pin....I cleaned out the Garage trying to find it, only to remember today it was in the tractor tool box where I put it last year for safe keeping.:confused2:.

This was after Saturday that I called Webb's Sickle Service and had them overnight me one...never fails you find it after ordering one.:confused3: I can use the spare, so no worries.

One comment is be sure when you connect up the hose to run it under the cylinder and the restrict valve goes with the arrow towards the tractor. The hose is extra long and I looped it to the ROP. Yes I know it should be up.

I will be adding a second control valve as the up and down motion are still too fast even with the restricter valve, and I need to add a lever extension to my control valve for a better feel when operating.. Ill do that after I get the hay cut in the next few days - the only window I have to get things done is the next 7 days.

Last, I was finally able to get things balanced for proper operation with help from Randy with Rowse. No more breaking my back lifting the 9' BAR :cool2::cool2::drink:

 

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Ok hear is the proof. This beast cuts like a dream and as fast as I can go. :cool2: On my Bobcat in mid range as fast as she will go . I started after 2PM yesterday and finished up about 8, cutting roughly 12 acres over 4 small lots taking a break or two too. One more to do today. Last year with the mower in the stock condition I had balling and clumps galore - not this time. It is now a totally different cutting unit. Who needs a drum mower when you can cut 9' at running speed.:thumbsup::dance1:

One thing the did help was changing out the grass board - I had the wire one on and now have a standard metal one that gives me a better inner shoe track.