davesisk
Platinum Member
OK, so, the ignition switch on my old PT1418 started sticking in the start position a couple of months back. Recently, it finally stopped starting the tractor in the start position, so I've been using a screwdriver to short the two posts of the starter relay. Not something I'd like to continue doing, so I decided to replace the ignition switch.../w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif.
So, I call PT to order a switch, and they suggested that I just pick up a generic 5-pole ignition switch from any lawn equipment store. They said any brand should work. OK, did that.
I had offered to help a neighbor move 5 cubic yards of topsoil he had delivered Saturday, so I went out to replace that switch first. I switched them out and hooked the 5 wires to the same positions, and no dice. In fact, it blew the 20 amp fuse in the fusable link going from the switch to the remote pole on the starter relay. Doh! The switch apparently did NOT have the same internal connections as the old one.
So, a neighbor who's good with automobile engines came over to try and help me troubleshoot it. We discovered the fuse blown, and no fire going to the spark plugs. We replaced the fuse, and the new switch immediately blew it again. Assuming that the switch had the same internal connections but the pole positions were different we tested the new switch with a circuit tester, and cut the old switch open with a grinder. Based on this testing and prodding, it doesn't look like the new switch is wired the way the engine expects. When there's voltage on the starter pole, there's no voltage on the coil pole. So, we decided to try running a wire from the starter relay pole to the coil input. We tried that once, and I smelled burning wire and saw a little smoke come out of where we think the coil is. Curses! I've got what should be the right switch ordered from PT, but know I'm wondering if I've cooked the ignition coil. Since it's buried under the engine shroud, I'm expecting that it's going to be tough to get to. Perhaps I should just carry it down to a Brigg's and Stratton repair shop if it doesn't work after installing what is theoretically the correct ignition switch? What do you guys think?
Thx,
Dave
So, I call PT to order a switch, and they suggested that I just pick up a generic 5-pole ignition switch from any lawn equipment store. They said any brand should work. OK, did that.
I had offered to help a neighbor move 5 cubic yards of topsoil he had delivered Saturday, so I went out to replace that switch first. I switched them out and hooked the 5 wires to the same positions, and no dice. In fact, it blew the 20 amp fuse in the fusable link going from the switch to the remote pole on the starter relay. Doh! The switch apparently did NOT have the same internal connections as the old one.
So, a neighbor who's good with automobile engines came over to try and help me troubleshoot it. We discovered the fuse blown, and no fire going to the spark plugs. We replaced the fuse, and the new switch immediately blew it again. Assuming that the switch had the same internal connections but the pole positions were different we tested the new switch with a circuit tester, and cut the old switch open with a grinder. Based on this testing and prodding, it doesn't look like the new switch is wired the way the engine expects. When there's voltage on the starter pole, there's no voltage on the coil pole. So, we decided to try running a wire from the starter relay pole to the coil input. We tried that once, and I smelled burning wire and saw a little smoke come out of where we think the coil is. Curses! I've got what should be the right switch ordered from PT, but know I'm wondering if I've cooked the ignition coil. Since it's buried under the engine shroud, I'm expecting that it's going to be tough to get to. Perhaps I should just carry it down to a Brigg's and Stratton repair shop if it doesn't work after installing what is theoretically the correct ignition switch? What do you guys think?
Thx,
Dave