Ignition leads cautionary tale

[jaxs]

And in breaking news, here's a photo of the distributor cap. Again, 1 year old. That centre post has snapped away or was destroyed by arcing sparks.
I've installed the old one, which I luckily had put aside.
New may not be better.

Add condensers to the new may not be better list. I've had condensers that were bad right out of the box and others that failed within 6 months. A bad condenser is the most difficult ignition problem to diagnose. They are so simple to manufacture people are probably making them in their garage and selling them for pennies.

 

[Fuddyduddy1952]

Add condensers to the new may not be better list. I've had condensers that were bad right out of the box and others that failed within 6 months. A bad condenser is the most difficult ignition problem to diagnose. They are so simple to manufacture people are probably making them in their garage and selling them for pennies.

Well...I have a '58 Nash that I had running great...for a month. Then it wouldn't start, it had a very weak spark. Since I'm retired electronic technician I still have test equipment. The (blankety%&^#) brand new condenser was bad. Looking through my parts I found a bag of new old stock condensers from the 50s. They all checked good...all around 0.47ufd. So yes, a lot in what jaxs is saying, don't overlook condensers and never assume new = good!
So many people repair things, then thinking I just replaced this or that when replacement part is bad.
And no, I'll never switch to electronic ignition, I prefer points for so many reasons.

 

[FordnMassey]

Years ago I had a small Dodge pickup
and it was missing really bad took it to
the Dodge garage only had it 6 months
so though that it was under warranty
but no they said the plug wires were not
covered after 1 1/2 hours the mech could
not find the problem the inside of the
distributor was burned up! I replaced the
plug wires solved the problem way too
much resistance on the plug wires and
the juice couldn't exit so burned up the
distributor.

willy

Hi Willy,

That may be a similar case for me. K can't see any reason that the centre post should disintegrate, aside from poor manufacturing, but the remainder seems to be a quality part. Perhaps my bad leads caused this?

 

[Fuddyduddy1952]

I wonder (center post arc) if there was a gap to the rotor button. You can put some play-doh on button, mount cap, remove cap and see if play-doh is flattened.

 

[FordnMassey]

Hi,
Good point. Arcing across a gap may have been the issue. I'll test the reinstalled old cap and report back.

 

[Oaktree]

I replaced the
plug wires solved the problem way too
much resistance on the plug wires and
the juice couldn't exit so burned up the
distributor.

Wasn't the conductor in a lot of plug wires some sort of carbonized string to make for less ignition noise in the radio? Pretty easy to damage, or get a bad connection on one of the ends.

And no, I'll never switch to electronic ignition, I prefer points for so many reasons.

Curiously, what would be those reasons? I have an antique car, first thing I did when I got it was put in a Pertronix. Never looked back. I don't miss points at all.

 

[Fuddyduddy1952]

People disagree with my (and wifes) thinking but our three reasons for points: first the car, motorcycle, tractor is what it is. If we didn't know how it all works and maintenance, why own it? Second is it much more simple. If electronic ignition or fuel injection quits, start walking. Third if you know what you're doing you can fine tune a carburetor or Kettering ignition for better performance and less money. Simplicity is the key.

 

[m1garand762]

Call up the Brillman company. They have all the old time ignition parts. They are my go to supplier for mag parts and wires. You f anyone has the old early L series gravely they have all the parts for those as well

 

[Williy]

I don't remember what was in the wires but
the resistance was so high voltage going
threw was just enough to get it to run.
On a Ford Mustang I had a cap that would
not let me run over 65 mph the cap wire was
long and rubbing against the shaft wore the
coating off the wire hence no speed!

willy