If you start a diesel, work it?

   / If you start a diesel, work it? #11  
My new tractor rarely goes beyond 1/2 throttle and almost never goes beyond 2/3 throttle. And I'm coming up on 25 hours without even seeing a regen cycle happen. From all the threads I've seen on forums, my tractor should have plugged up and died by now.
 
   / If you start a diesel, work it?
  • Thread Starter
#12  
When I run my tractor is is usually at rated RPM. The thing idles at almost 1500 and the book says I should have it the RPM at 2500 min for the HST to have the pressure it needs. I figure that I may as well run it at 3K (PTO speed) if I need it at 2.5 just to move. So if I'm moving or doing any work at all it's at 3K RPM. There I people that have a different opinion but mine is that it's better for the tractor to run in hard if I'm going to run it at all. And no, I'm not concerned about a little more fuel use.

This was the reason for my question. I'd actually prefer to wait to unhook the blower for prep until I am ready to put the mower on it and then use the tractor because that would run it for an hour or so after the starts and stops were done. But honestly I cannot because I won't mow for the first time for maybe another month, maybe longer. But I'm sure there will be some decent temps for doing other things done, like painting the blower, getting the chains off and put away, etc.

I'm not big on mowing. I mow with the deck as high as I can and I only mow every 2 weeks. When mowing higher the grass (really hay and clover in my case) makes it so that it does not grow to the point it needs mowing again as fast and I will wait to start mowing until I will be able to see the difference between what is mowed and what isn't
 
   / If you start a diesel, work it? #13  
Minimum of 2,500 rpm for operating the HST, really? I'll creep my Kubota B7800 (HST) along at 1,500 rpm. My Kioti will also move along at that rpm, but I try to run 1,800 rpm most of the time when traveling (and not running the PTO or doing ground work): it's got a DPF, so it needs to run a bit harder/hotter; my Kubota could care less.

I run my tractors when I have something to do. They get plenty of time under load that I don't care about the times they're short-tripped.

My new tractor rarely goes beyond 1/2 throttle and almost never goes beyond 2/3 throttle. And I'm coming up on 25 hours without even seeing a regen cycle happen. From all the threads I've seen on forums, my tractor should have plugged up and died by now.

Don't know what 1/2 throttle and 2/3 throttle means. RPM is a better descriptor. I run many hours on my Kioti before it regens: I'm almost thinking that it's about once per 100 hrs. I doubt that ANY DPF has clogged in as little as 25 hrs.
 
   / If you start a diesel, work it? #14  
My only concern is allowing adequate time for the turbo charger to cool down before shutting it off. I usually idle it for 5 minutes prior to shut down. Must be doing something right, never had a turbo charger issue from coking the bearings in 6000 hours.
 
   / If you start a diesel, work it? #15  
Just like the car or pickup. If they gotta be moved. Move them. Don't work them. Diesels would do better at this than gasoline engines, e.g. any excess diesel will not wash lube from the cylinder walls. Still will leave some condensate that will evaporate once the engine is worked when it needs to be.
 
   / If you start a diesel, work it? #16  
My new tractor rarely goes beyond 1/2 throttle and almost never goes beyond 2/3 throttle. And I'm coming up on 25 hours without even seeing a regen cycle happen. From all the threads I've seen on forums, my tractor should have plugged up and died by now.
And that’s just the problem. Theres so much over-hype and over-analysis of potential problems with just about everything on the internet. Most comes from those who have never even used equipment or it just sits in a garage.

Don’t get too wrapped up in the over analysis, internet trolls, “your brand sucks”, and internet “tough guys” .
Gas guys troll diesel owners, Kubota guys troll Deere owners, etc.
Along with some sincerely helpful people, there’s much BS on the internet.
 
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   / If you start a diesel, work it?
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Minimum of 2,500 rpm for operating the HST, really? ......
I could be wrong about that being recommended, but it moves a whole lot better there. I sometimes creep the tractor out of the shed at low RPM when warming it up in the winter. But it really doesn't matter because once I'm warmed up I push it up to rated RPM and leave it there unless I'm stopping for a minute to get off an do something, or I'm lowering it before engaging or disengaging a PTO. I realize they my opinion on this is different than a lot of others, but if I'm moving or doing anything I'm at rated RPM because IMO this is better for the engine and in all my reading I have not seen any documented proof that this is not the case.
 
   / If you start a diesel, work it? #18  
My only concern is allowing adequate time for the turbo charger to cool down before shutting it off. I usually idle it for 5 minutes prior to shut down. Must be doing something right, never had a turbo charger issue from coking the bearings in 6000 hours.
That is correct. Seen plenty a fool run a diesel hard then shut it off. Only takes a few times to take out a turbo that way.
 
   / If you start a diesel, work it? #19  
Don’t get too wrapped up in the over analysis

there’s much BS on the internet.
Got to agree... There is good info and there is much over analysis. I say, get out there and get going! (But then we don't have a turbo or HST...) We treat our 2005 like we would a diesel car or truck.
 
   / If you start a diesel, work it? #20  
Wet Stacking can be a problem on older diesels. Even on some of the newer ones. I think (??) that's why many of the OEM Tractors have such high idle speeds. Just a WAG, but it makes sense. You can't get a straight answer from Dealers because -- They don't really know. I hate it.

I would tell you to keep an eye on your oil level. If it starts to 'grow', change it out even if it's a little on the too soon side. You can also look at your tailpipe and check to see if there's unburnt fuel dripping out of it or coating the inside of it. If so, change your operating habits and change the oil often.

In fact, that's why some diesels had such short OCI's (Oil Change Interval) back in the day. Because it got contaminated. Not so much anymore on Trucks.
(I am not a believer in changing oil too often. It does more harm than good)

I think they've got much of the problem tamed these days, but it helps to know what to look for
 

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