Ideas or Advice for how to remove a clutch off of an Acme engine?

dolomite792 · Apr 25, 2013

Ok so I'm just taking the Acme A220 engine that broke on my rototiller and once I was able to get it out ad check over the clutch I soon realize its not like any others in any of the diagrams or how to instructional guides. I was looking it over to see where I could find a simply bolt to loosen to take it off but of course wouldn't that be too easy? I've attached a photo for everyone to see.

As you can see the only bolt I can find is an alan key bolt right in the center of the clutch where I'm guessing its attached to the crankshaft. I'm guessing I'll have to get this thing into a vice because its almost impossible to take it off by hand even with two people.

So this brought up a few questions for this newbie, if I can't find any parts for the acme being as they might be too expensive and I go with another briggs engine I have, how am I supposed to attach that clutch to the new engine? Especially if it needs to be attached from an alan bolt right into the core of the crankshaft. I looked the briggs one over and it has a hole in the center however its not threaded from what I can see. Does the engine conversion kit sold by Earth tools or bcs come with a newer clutch that might fit better with the the briggs?

I am totally new to this and just don't want any surprises before I throw down some money on a conversion kit and what not. Any assistance or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you

SimS · Apr 26, 2013

Here's a link that might help some.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/2-wheeled-tractors/155009-bcs-715-clutch-sticking.html

SimS

Ed of all trades · Apr 26, 2013

Take a tie rod fork and stick it between the engine and clutch and tap it streaght in a couple times, it pops right off.

dolomite792 · Apr 26, 2013

Ed of all trades said:
Take a tie rod fork and stick it between the engine and clutch and tap it streaght in a couple times, it pops right off.

Ok I shall do just this, thank you for the advice. My next question is how you connect this old clutch to a new engine? Im just not sure that the alan bolt would work with another engine.

Ed of all trades · Apr 26, 2013

The Acme engine I have has a tapered shaft and the clutch would only fit another Acme engine.

BCSSHOP · Apr 26, 2013

The engine conversion kit includes a new clutch for straight crankshafts so the old clutch is discarded when fitting a new engine. There are basically 3 conversion kits offered for the 600 and 700 series tractor that were originally fitted with Acme engines. One kit is for engines with 3/4" diameter crankshafts and power output up to 7HP. A second kit is for engines with 1" diameter crankshaft and power output from 6 through 9hp. The third kit is again for engines with 1" diameter crankshaft and power output above 9hp up to about 14hp. The conversion kits include the adapter flange to fit the non-Acme engines to the BCS 6 stud mounting pattern on the transmission along with lots of hardware, clutch lever, throttle cable, and stop switch. There is not a lot of instructions but installing the parts the only way they fit seems to work with no parts left over.

dolomite792 · Apr 26, 2013

Would a crowbar also work to get this clutch off? its on there good to say the least. Im going to douse it in wd40 and work at it with a crowbar as its the only thing I have at the moment.

BCSSHOP · Apr 27, 2013

Impact with a brass hammer while using the crowbar will help. The old trick of impacting the end of the crankshaft with the brass hammer while trying to pry off the flywheel uses the same principle. The shock of the impact loosens most things stuck on a tapered shaft. Using impact with the puller is my favorite technique.

mkeith · Apr 29, 2013

dolomite792 said:
Ok I shall do just this, thank you for the advice. My next question is how you connect this old clutch to a new engine? Im just not sure that the alan bolt would work with another engine.

I went through this. I don't remember how I got the clutch off of the output shaft, but but I did unscrew the allen bolt in the center. I may have used liquid wrench on the shaft. Also, my clutch wasn't stuck. The previous owner had the foresight to clamp it in the disengaged position after he broke the motor. I don't know if your clutch is frozen but apparently it is a common problem. On mine, the Acme motor was toast (threw a rod through the crankcase). Fixing it seemed more trouble than it was worth.

I found (right here on this forum) that there is a replacement motor which bolts right up with the existing clutch. It is a Kohler Command Pro, 9.5 HP. In the US, as far as I know, the only place that has it is Earthtools BCS in Kentucky. They have them in stock. They shipped me one, and it works fine. I live in California.

I don't know if you have the manual. But you can find the old manuals on the BCS america website. I think you click on "service" then "operator manuals" then select your model.

--McKenzie

dolomite792 · Apr 29, 2013

BCSSHOP said:
Impact with a brass hammer while using the crowbar will help. The old trick of impacting the end of the crankshaft with the brass hammer while trying to pry off the flywheel uses the same principle. The shock of the impact loosens most things stuck on a tapered shaft. Using impact with the puller is my favorite technique.

I'm going to give up on this thing and just sell it for parts, hitting that area with a hammer will just damage that soft metal, its not going to come out cleanly ever.

Thanks anyway guys!

splitty · Apr 29, 2013

Those things seem to come unstuck when you are about to give up. Give it one more try. You have to impact it while prying straight off. It will come off don't give up on it.

dolomite792 · Apr 29, 2013

Impact down the middle where the alan bolt was or just anywhere on the actual clutch?

splitty · Apr 30, 2013

Try both. Is there a gap behind the clutch? If so is it big enough to pound wedges in between the clutch and the block? Use a brass hammer or put wood between the hammer and clutch. Don't hit on the flat part, either hit on an edge or corner. You have to have something applying pressure to push it off the shaft while you impact it. It is usually more effective if the pressure is applied evenly on both sides. If the shaft is not being used again try to wedge something between the clutch and engine block and hit the shaft where the alan bolt was at. A quick sharp blow should shock it free. Use a brass dowel rod if the shaft is going to be reused. Spray it with what ever lube you have also. Good luck it will pop off.

milkman · Apr 30, 2013

Sounds like that thing is really stuck. If I was doing this, I would put the allen head bolt back in the hole and run it down snug, now back it out about two turns. Like others have said, use wedges or pry bars between the engine and the clutch. Now take a rod and set it on the head of the allen head bolt and smack it with a hammer, should pop loose.

Ed of all trades · Apr 30, 2013

I used a tie rod fork on mine and it poped right off. Get a cheep one my buddy said he got his for $10.

splitty · May 4, 2013

Did you get it off?

dolomite792 · May 5, 2013

Yes sir I got it off finally with a crow bar and hammer. I opened the engine up and the connecting was broken in pieces.

dolomite792 · May 7, 2013

Sorry correction broken "connecting rod"**

splitty · May 8, 2013

That is good to hear, to bad about the rod though. Whats next a conversion kit and new motor?

mkeith · May 8, 2013

splitty said:
That is good to hear, to bad about the rod though. Whats next a conversion kit and new motor?

No need for a conversion kit. Just get a Kohler Command Pro that mounts direct with the same clutch and all. Earth Tools (in Kentucky) can supply it. Call them up. If you want a different motor, then I guess you will need a kit and a new clutch, too.

--McKenzie