I think if I find a post hole diggers, I will have a full set!

[KilroyJC]

Lets see if this will make my 5,000th message.

Yep

 

[Vigo327]

Most DIY side links (made several myself) use the solid (rod) OEM link by cutting off the ends and welding them to the cylinder...The process is well documented in other threads here...don't recall anyone ever having an issue...!

So i had to think about it harder to figure out when it would or wouldn't cause any 'hole wallerin'..

The rectangular lower arms, having ball ends, should be able to allow an implement to 'tilt' while themselves remaining vertical or at least 'square' to the side link where it attaches to the arm.

However, if the fit from your ball ends to the implement pins is such that the implement can't tilt very much without something there contacting, that interference would rotate the lower arm into a 'bind' with the side link pin/bolt.

Or, if you had stabilizers that were actually tightened to keep the 3pt from swaying, depending on how those stabilizers were attached to the lower arms, they might potentially contribute to putting the lower arm into a bind with the side link pin/bolt.

Also, if one or both ends of a side link are 'angled' because the lower arms are further apart than the rockshaft arms, rotating that angled part the wrong way, or possibly installing the side link 'upside down' would rotate the lower arm into a bind any time the 3pt was lifted.

So i guess you're mostly right, that the majority of times probably nothing is happening that would cause that pin/hole interface to go into a bind and 'wallow out'. But i can envision many circumstances where it might and i bet plenty of lower arms out there have wallowed out side link holes in them.

 

[MechanicalGuy]

Most DIY side links (made several myself) use the solid (rod) OEM link by cutting off the ends and welding them to the cylinder...The process is well documented in other threads here...don't recall anyone ever having an issue...!

Not sure what exactly you're talking about. The links in my picture, as well as the cylinder, have a clevis fitment. There are two pieces straddling the lower side link hole. That makes three holes in a line that aren't spherical ball end joints, but instead are just holes through thick steel.

I've shown my picture, now you show yours.

 

[MechanicalGuy]

Ball ends wouldn't help this. And most tractors don't have ball ends here anyways.

If you get a hydraulic side link and move it to its extents on both ends, there is a good chance that you will wallow these holes out.

 

[/pine]

View attachment 767982

Ball ends wouldn't help this. And most tractors don't have ball ends here anyways.

If you get a hydraulic side link and move it to its extents on both ends, there is a good chance that you will wallow these holes out.

Ball ends are primarily used on top links...not side links...
What you're showing is the bottom of the left lift arm...typically the part you are showing with the three holes would get cut off and welded to a cylinder...
Not sure exactly what it is you don't understand...?

 

[ovrszd]

I agree with the top link. The side link has limited use. It's only useful with a box blade imo. I use my hyd side link very little.

Hitching with a QH. Rear Blade. PHD on a slope. Moldboard plow.

That's my list.

 

[Vigo327]

Well, if you get yourself a hydraulic side link and put some quick disconnects near it, you could just consider it 'another rear remote' when you're not using it on the current implement. If the cylinder piston seal is good it should stay where you put it for at least some hours while you hook up to something else and go work, or could have a chain set to 'level' you lift up, hook the chain, drop the side link to hang on the chain, and then use the hydraulics for something else. Just a thought..

If you get a hydraulic side link and move it to its extents on both ends, there is a good chance that you will wallow these holes out.

I agree with you, but haven't proven it myself. I just fix a lot of broken stuff and got a good eye for 'that's gonna get messed up at some point'.

As far as the ball ends, my B6100 actually came with something basically a cat0 top link, as the adjustable side link. The ball end is just through-bolted to the inside of the lower arm. It's not ideal. I also cut and welded some automotive swaybar endlinks to be the side links for my Case garden tractor which i had to build my 3pt arms out of scrap car parts. Same problem.. they will try to twist the lower arms when you lift them. It should really be a clevis yoke in this application. I'll.. get around to it.

 

[Tinhack]

Ball ends wouldn't help this. And most tractors don't have ball ends here anyways.

If you get a hydraulic side link and move it to its extents on both ends, there is a good chance that you will wallow these holes out.

Mine has a ball end. The bracket to the lift arm is similar to yours but mine is welded. I made it to fit the cylinder I used. Yours looks like one of the "off-the-shelf" versions you have to wait months to get and pay double for the privilege.

I'd have to be a complete idiot to try and move my cylinder to its full extension or retraction. The swing chains or arms probably wouldn't like that either. That's not what it's for. Most original crank styles only move a few inches. I have a rather long cylinder there just because, in the mid-point, it allows the lift arm to be level and I can change the pitch on either side. Mine moves the end of my drag blade about 10 inches with just few inches of cylinder movement. It's there so I don't have to get off the tractor and manually crank the lift arm for every change. Oh yeah, I also have one of those large camper trailer levels on my QH. I can see from the seat when it's level. (When on level ground.)

Anything to save me work.

Edit: Added Pic. This is the only one I could find of my setup.