I suck with the box blade, HELP!

Scratchnbell · Apr 21, 2005

I don't know if it is me or the box blade.
I'm trying to level out my yard but I keep digging holes and scalping.
I've leveled the box blade on the drive way and that didn't help. I then tried raising the front up so that it wouldn't dig so bad and slide over more. I alway have a pile of stuff left over in the box after I'm done. What do I do with that? The little piles don't look so good all over the yard.
I don't know what to do.
Does the quality of the box blade have any thing to do with it?
Mine is brand new and I'm new to the whole process.
Who knows, It may just be operator failure.
thanks for looking
Bob

MikeFromVA · Apr 21, 2005

Using box blades is a learning experience when you start. Using trial and error, you figure out what works and what does not. Go over an area with the BB a little higher than you think you need and see if you pick up anything. If not, lower it a hair and try another pass.

The pile at the end is left when you pick the BB up all at once. Try to see if you can turn and keep most of the material there. Or gradually raise the BB as you near the end of your pass.

Just keep working at it and you'll get better... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

bczoom · Apr 21, 2005

Bob,

For leveling a yard, I've always found it best to have the box blade full of dirt when dragging. It'll still skim off the high points (although a very little at a time) and the dirt can fall into the low spots.

Is the dirt/ground relatively dry?

When I'm done, the load gets feathered out by lifting a very little at a time while driving or I find a place to dump (if it's full of rocks or whatever).

Brian

rdln · Apr 21, 2005

push backwards with scarifers positioned so that they contact the ground before the back blades do, dirt will go underneath blades and no more piles unless you run out of room before you run out of dirt, if so then slowly raise up box.

HomeBrew2 · Apr 21, 2005

Others have reported good results driving at moderate speed while doing a figure-8 pattern. You'll still wind up with dirt in the box though.

You could attach limit chains between your lower links and upper tractor frame/body like one might do with a bush hog to prevent the box from going lower that a certain height.

So far, I've had to work in confined areas and I use the motor grader technique for finish grading ... drive at a crawl, keep a constant eye on the blade (usually the side that is picking up the most material), control the height of the blade as necessary when you see the blade rising or falling due to ground bumps and holes.

Maybe try the quick-figure-8 or backwards-rippers-down or full-box methods first then use the crawl method to evenly distribute what's left in the box.

As said before, the soil may be too wet. If so, if you have sun or breeze, rip it a little and let it dry some. If it's too dry, water the heck out of it and let it sit for a day.

plaindave · Apr 21, 2005

If you have the room the figure 8 pattern works pretty well - in cramped spaces where you can't make a sweeping turn then you just have to figure out how to feather the box up and down.

I went through the same learning curve a couple years back. My wife probably wondered why I took so long to level the back yard - I told her I just liked driving the tractor. Truth be told it was one of the most frustrating experiences. Just when I thought I figured it out I'd dig a hole and have a box full of dirt.

I'd tell you to have a beer and relax, but one should never mix alcohol and heavy equipment. Just keep trying and know you are not alone. Everyone of us has done it.

BB_TX · Apr 21, 2005

What I have found works for me is this. Ripping, moving dirt, and preliminary leveling I do going forward. Beginning final leveling I do going backward (of course your BB has to have a rear blade). The reason I do this is that when going forward over uneven ground, when the front wheels go up the BB goes down and vice versa making leveling difficult. Going backward the wheels are going over ground already leveled by the BB making for a smoother ride and easier leveling. Then I may make multiple passes forward just for final cleanup and getting rid of tire tracks (and more seat time /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif).

_RaT_ · Apr 21, 2005

A box blade is not easy to use for leveling, add to that soil that won't spread easily and it is a problem. Debris can also make using it tough. A hydraulic toplink in my opinion is one way to get through the learning curve much quicker. A light weight box can also create problems that heavier ones don't have. Perhaps what you describe is precisely the problem most of us have with a box blade when we first use one. You really need to get all of the soil to about the same consistency by using the rippers and then filling in the low spots which takes a decent eye and some common sense. I generally rip the soil and then depending on what I am doing, will use either extreme of my hydraulic top link. For spreading roadbase for instance, I use the longest or most tilted back my box goes. It does a nice job of spreading and the 1000lbs it weighs helps consolidate the roadbase somewhat. With earth, I typicaly start with my top link fully retracted and let it ride on the front edge of the box. It takes a lot of experimenting. When things really need attention, I simply slap on my Harley 8' powered landscape rake. It eliminates just about everything I just mentioned and will make you look like you know what your doing even when you do not. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

bczoom · Apr 21, 2005

Bob,

Your profile isn't filled out so we don't know where you live nor what you have for tractor/implements.

What other implements do you have (or have access to)? If you can get it close with the BB, there are all types of other things that can be used to do a final grade.

Like others said, keep working at it. It takes patience.

Brian

KiotiJohn · Apr 21, 2005

Bob, maybe you don't want to, but it would be a great idea for you to go to "My Home" and then click on personal settings to fill out your profile. Having information about where you live, what you're working with, etc. helps us all to give more qualified answers.
RAT: ( When things really need attention, I simply slap on my Harley 8' powered landscape rake. )
Now you're just bragging!!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif John

Scratchnbell · Apr 21, 2005

Thanks for all the advice
I live in Bakersfield Calif
The soil is a sandy loam and is really not wet.
The places I have the most trouble is at the turns.
I just got a 6 foot wide by 12 foot long box made out od double stacked I beams. It's very heavy. I'm thinking about pulling that around for a while and see if I can get things leveled out better.
I also think that a Hydro transmission tractor would be helpful and allow for a little more control.
I filled out the profile also.
Bob

Soundguy · Apr 21, 2005

( I alway have a pile of stuff left over in the box after I'm done. What do I do with that? The little piles don't look so good all over the yard )

Sounds like you are almost there. once you get it adjusted so you aren't scalping, and digging holes.. then you are at 95%.

Whatever material you have left over inthe box at the end of your run/fill/cut, can be feathered out.. say leave a half inch to an inchspace, and your box will empty in a few feet, and be virtually the same level as the spot you drug.

Soundguy

creeper · Apr 21, 2005

The feather method is what you need to work on and for me it is a timing thing. You have to anticipate how long it will take for the implement to rise after you move the lever and then learn not to over compensate. Some tractors have adjustments that control how fast the 3 pt hitch will raise and lower. I have recently learned the importance of moving extremely slow while doing blade or loader work, it gives you more control and more time to adjust. I use low 1st for precision work. Hope some of this makes sense and you are able to see it start working for you.It takes some patience, wich I have none of, so I feel your pain. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Boone · Apr 21, 2005

Wouldn't dropping the loader bucket down into a float position and then backing up (boxblade raised,) be a quick way of leveling things out?

jloppy · Apr 21, 2005

Don't forget the most important link...the TOP link. Once you've gotten most of the digging out of the way and it's looking better, raise the scarifiers out of the way and extend the top link, so the rear of the box blade is lower than the front. Then you can set the blade height at about 2" above the ground. Gradually work the area until you can run the blade at about 1" without picking up much extra dirt. If the soil is faily loose, though, you can probably do the 1" right away. Just remeber to have fun while you are learning. If it takes ten hours to accomplish, just consider that as "on the job training!" /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

TN75Jason · Apr 21, 2005

I have had a JD box blade for about 15 years and have used it on the back of probably 12 or more tractors and it still aggravates me occasionally. I used it this past weekend to level an area for a new hay barn extension and see that the responses above all have some good advice. RaT is correct - you usually need to rip up plenty of loose material with the teeth before you begin finish grading. Another responder is also barking up the right tree - soil moisture is a key factor in getting it to cooperate. One thing that I did not see mentioned is proper use of speed. While it is true that you may need to go slow when cutting or ripping, or in tight areas, my favorite method to finish grade is to grab a higher gear and get a little speed going with some loose material in the box blade set a constant height and cover the entire area. This eliminates the problems you described when you are creeping along, hand on the 3 pt lift, scalping and leaving hills. Then, as others said, just feather out the remainder in the bucket on the last pass. Also, if you drag up debris (roots, rocks, grass clumps, etc) in the process, get rid of them by dumping them at the edge or hand raking - they will mess you up in the finish grading. The finish dragging is best accomplished with the box tilted somewhat rearward so that the front blade is not trying to dig in. I have used this method to end up with areas that look like putting greens if you were to paint them green.

_RaT_ · Apr 21, 2005

Very difficult. Not enough mass to do it. I do some final finish sometimes by having the cutting edge of the loader bucket just tilted down enough to have the back edge of the bucket raised about 3/4" and then go in reverse. I still have my front wheels touching, but barely. I very, very rarely use float. For me, it just does not do much. As the previous poster mentioned, go slow until you get it figured out. Its so easy to over cut and when you do, you just created more work.

riptides · Apr 22, 2005

I just had to laugh at your choice of subject title. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

More seat time with your attachment is needed. It is a learning/using thing. It just takes time to fine-tune.

Good luck.
-Mike Z.

edski · Apr 22, 2005

I'll have to 2nd TN75Jason's approach/summary. Once I have enough material to work with (in my case a clayey rocky soil), I'll just make multiple passes in a higher gear and not pay close attention to the 3pt. For me this helps bust up the clay and give a more homogenous base to work with, and eliminates "major hills and valleys". In areas with tight turns (eg. driveway), I won't even worry about feathering the "ends" until later. Either make a tight brake turn or dump the box, turn around, grab the pile, and go again. While this may not be the most efficient method, it's fun, it works for me, and I don't look like I suck as bad as I do. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Once I have a decent base, I've used most of the above suggestions for the finish grade. The 2nd time is easier. You'll still suck but it won't bother you so much. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Cheers, edski

Panache · Apr 22, 2005

The top link adjustment works with a fixed backblade, It works differently with a hindged backblade. I use a landscape rake for the final passes, and reverse it for the last pass.