I need some advice on how to rig a horizontal tree to pull it sideways 30'

[Looking4new]

Surprised no one has mentioned the obvious. Looking has no where near the proper equipment or expertise to move that thing whole. Cannot imagine any one bringing in such equipment to tackle one tree. Each 20' section, minus branches, weighs as much as his jeep. Cut it up in manageable pieces as most have said. Always start at the tree top and work back. Only cut branches as you move down the tree that support the section being cut. As you remove the outboard weight, the tension in the fractured stump will lessen, and reduce danger of a pop up. I have done a couple of those successfully. Looking, what is our hurry to get it moved?

Ron

The bottom section of it is resting on the tail end of my septic field. I would be cutting at head height, but it is do able. The top 50' is totally unreachable without standing on something like a ladder. I have seen how cutting trees on ladders has worked out for other people.
You are right, I don't have the expertise nor the equipment to tackle this job.
I am thinking that the way the stump split in two places that I will tie the whole tree off in 4 places, then snip a couple of the stringy bits that are all mangled anyway on the East side (same side as the house is on) at the stump, then tackle the tree itself near the fork. From the fork to the top (40-50') is impossible to get at from the ground. I will NOT get in between the tree and where I want it to go, because it will be tied off in that direction with tension.
Also, because it is resting on the septic field (weeping bed) the only equipment that goes on that is my riding lawn mower.

 

[dougtrr2]

Surprised no one has mentioned the obvious. Looking has no where near the proper equipment or expertise to move that thing whole. Cannot imagine any one bringing in such equipment to tackle one tree. Each 20' section, minus branches, weighs as much as his jeep. Cut it up in manageable pieces as most have said. Always start at the tree top and work back. Only cut branches as you move down the tree that support the section being cut. As you remove the outboard weight, the tension in the fractured stump will lessen, and reduce danger of a pop up. I have done a couple of those successfully. Looking, what is our hurry to get it moved?

Ron

I second this. I had straight line winds that snapped and uprooted a number of trees on my acreage. First I would trim off every branch that is not supporting weight and get them out of the way. Then starting at the top I would start cutting branches that are supporting weight. Always look up to make sure there is nothing above you. In some cases I only cut off a foot or two which limited the distance the tree would go down. Eventually you will get it low enough that the main trunk is touching the ground at the tip. Just keep cutting off branches and slowly letting the tree come down.

When you go to rig it to move pieces out of the way if you rig it right you can cause the tree to roll out of the way rather than dragging it.

Take it slow and think about all the possible outcomes. There is a lot of energy bound up in that tree. If at any point you don't feel comfortable stop and consider calling in a pro.

Doug in SW IA

 

[oosik]

I've had two ancient pines "jack knife" on me in all my years of falling out here. A REAL encouragement to not stand directly behind a falling tree.

It was an unplanned situation. However - not THAT hard to work with. Starting at the tip of the tree. Cut the limbs for a distance of ten feet or so. Cut the trunk into desired lengths. Just work your way to where the tree split and jack knifed. By the time you get there, all the built up tension will be released.

It's really not that big a deal. Besides a Jeep or small tractor IS NOT going to pull that tree. That entire tree - either limbed or whole - is just too heavy.

Without exception, all the gigantic ancient pines I fell would end up being off the ground. They were held up by their enormous limbs. Alway had to be careful cutting to length. Not so much a danger to me but a pinched blade.

I tried the nylon wedges and other contraptions. Just another PITA. The quick & easy solution - a second chain saw.

 

[MossRoad]

The tree is on the ground, supported by the branches, maybe. Can't tell if it is in compression or tension at the trunk near the stump.

I'd (that's me not telling you what to do, but what I'd do) make a cut 1/4 of the way through from the bottom at the red marked area. Then I'd start cutting from the top, about 3" up the stump at the green marked area. Watching the kerf carefully for movement. If it starts to open, I'd finish the cut from the top. If it starts to close, I'd finish the cut from the bottom. I'd also watch for rolling, as who knows where it will want to go if it's just resting on branches.

Clear the area of all debris on the ground and trim off all those sticker branches and splintered wood before beginning to lessen the chance of snags and tripping in my escape routes.

Or, if you're not comfortable doing it, hire a tree service. They'd probably only charge a few hundred bucks to get it on the ground if you're going to saw it up and remove the branches yourself.

 

[CobyRupert]

One source I found says a 5/8" nylon rope has a working load limit of 743 lbs, (breaking strength of 8910 lbs, using a safety factor of 12).
That's not much force when pulling a tall tree. Stay out of "snap back kill zone" if rope breaks.

Like MossRoad and other say. Cut into small pieces. Watch the kerf when cutting to see that it is opening and not closing to pinch saw. Use a (plastic) wedges in kerf so that tree kerf CAN'T close and pinch saw bar.

I'd leave the branches on. Although that would make it tougher to know if sections are in compression or tension when cutting them, you're only dragging out 3 or 4 pieces of tree and not 100's of branches when cleaning area up.

 

[Looking4new]

Thanks for the advice guys, I will let you know how it goes.

 

[MossRoad]

Good luck and be safe. :thumbsup:

 

[msmith]

Surprised no one has mentioned the obvious. Looking has no where near the proper equipment or expertise to move that thing whole. Cannot imagine any one bringing in such equipment to tackle one tree. Each 20' section, minus branches, weighs as much as his jeep. Cut it up in manageable pieces as most have said. Always start at the tree top and work back. Only cut branches as you move down the tree that support the section being cut. As you remove the outboard weight, the tension in the fractured stump will lessen, and reduce danger of a pop up. I have done a couple of those successfully. Looking, what is our hurry to get it moved?

Ron

This.

And...when pulling, just leave the rope, all rope, in the garage. Over the last 30+ years farming and working for the power company, I have used ropes, chains, steel winch lines, synthetic winch lines, and even guy wire on occasions to pull poles, trees, trucks, and other assorted items. I have broken all of the above except appropriately rated steel winch lines and appropriately rated chains.

Ropes are weak and when you tie a knot, their strength is basically cut in half. They slingshot really bad when they break. I watched a grown man of about 250 pounds knocked to the ground when a rope broke and hit him in the chest. Fortunately it was winter and he had Carhartts on and it didn't hit him in the face. Sorry for the rant but using ropes to pull scares me and I would hate for someone to get hurt, maybe losing fingers or eyes if one were to break.

 

[LD48750]

This.

And...when pulling, just leave the rope, all rope, in the garage. Over the last 30+ years farming and working for the power company, I have used ropes, chains, steel winch lines, synthetic winch lines, and even guy wire on occasions to pull poles, trees, trucks, and other assorted items. I have broken all of the above except appropriately rated steel winch lines and appropriately rated chains.

Ropes are weak and when you tie a knot, their strength is basically cut in half. They slingshot really bad when they break. I watched a grown man of about 250 pounds knocked to the ground when a rope broke and hit him in the chest. Fortunately it was winter and he had Carhartts on and it didn't hit him in the face. Sorry for the rant but using ropes to pull scares me and I would hate for someone to get hurt, maybe losing fingers or eyes if one were to break.

Of your knowledge do farmers & the power companies still use rope?

 

[msmith]

Of your knowledge do farmers & the power companies still use rope?

To tie stuff off or to pull light loads, yes. To pull heavy loads or unknowns, no. I'm sure there are those in places that are ok with taking the chance though.