I lost the track on my Komatsu. How do I fix this?

[garry1p]

Last time I had to do this with no help available was a PITA but I got it done.
I loosened the track and just could not line up the track fortunately the front was still on the drive sprocket so I used the bucket to tilt the tractor used a long chain tied to a tree connected to the track at a proper angle to pull the track towards the back sprocket then bump that track forward maybe 10 12 inches and relocated the chain to a good angle and bumped the track again. Eventually I got everything lined up switched the chain to the top of the track and in a few more hours I was back working.
I hope this makes sense but I had to think outside the box since the other times (twice) a few years back there was someone around to help.

 

[WoodChuckDad]

Removed the zerk and nothing came out. Pushed against front of track and idler with bucket. Still nothing. Loosened the 27 mm nut that zerk sat in and nothing. Gonna get my wife to bring her jeep out and see if it helps to pill tread with winch. I have the tread under the small idlers and just at the edge of the front idler.

 

[4570Man]

Removed the zerk and nothing came out. Pushed against front of track and idler with bucket. Still nothing. Loosened the 27 mm nut that zerk sat in and nothing. Gonna get my wife to bring her jeep out and see if it helps to pill tread with winch. I have the tread under the small idlers and just at the edge of the front idler.

I usually pull the big bolt completely out when I want to release the tracks. My dozer has a separate bolt to release the grease so you can leave the grease fitting alone but none of my other machines do.

 

[WoodChuckDad]

No success. We felt like we were close at one point and I tried to rotate the tread but it slipped away.
I may have to remove those two small bolts that seem to be holding a flange in place, that in turn is holding that large 27 mm nut. The front idler did not move back at all.

 

[4570Man]

No success. We felt like we were close at one point and I tried to rotate the tread but it slipped away.
I may have to remove those two small bolts that seem to be holding a flange in place, that in turn is holding that large 27 mm nut. The front idler did not move back at all.

The tracks should release the tension fairly easily. Sometimes on old machines the track tensioner seals will blow out and instead of fixing it people will put in hard stops. Are you sure that’s not been done?

 

[WoodChuckDad]

The tracks should release the tension fairly easily. Sometimes on old machines the track tensioner seals will blow out and instead of fixing it people will put in hard stops. Are you sure that’s not been done?

I have had the machine since 2016. I’ve pumped grease in there several times over the years and it will tighten. I have not done so this summer and that is probably why This happened. I am going thru my shop manual trying to get more in on that tension cylender. I cant seem to find an exploded view of it.

 

[D&D]

Removed the zerk and nothing came out. Pushed against front of track and idler with bucket. Still nothing. Loosened the 27 mm nut that zerk sat in and nothing. Gonna get my wife to bring her jeep out and see if it helps to pill tread with winch. I have the tread under the small idlers and just at the edge of the front idler.

Put a chain around the bucket and hook to either side of tracks.

 

[WoodChuckDad]

Recoil spring assembly. I found it in the disassembly and assembly section. I definitely don’t want to remove that 27 mm nut. It is the nut on the cylinder. Every page seems to have a warning that the adjustment ccylinder is under extremely high preasure “never loosen the lubricator more than one turn. If grease does not come out, move the machine back and forth. I guess I need to tighten that 27 mm nut back up and find a way to put some better pressure against the track and idler. The bucket is adjusted to just barely reach it. I think I will get a good solid log and use the bucket and thumb to push against it like “letsdig” does in this video. I’m tempted to try propping the excavator up like he does. I dont have the skill to roll the link up onto the idler like he does.

 

[WoodChuckDad]

There is so much value in taking pictures along the way, when doing something like this.
I am reviewing my photos and I think I was incorrect about the bolt. I also see some grease coming out in a later picture.

This is the assembly diagram

I dont think the 27 mm nut that I was turning is represented well in the diagram. #6 is the massive nut on the right in the following picture and that is probably75-100mm.
View attachment IMG_3354.jpg
If you look carefully you can see some grease at the top of that picture on top of the threads. I need to go back out there and check. There may be a relief hole there and turning that 27 mm nut may have opened it. The fact that there is no old grease on this tells me it is a result of something that was done yesterday.

 

[4570Man]

There is so much value in taking pictures along the way, when doing something like this.
I am reviewing my photos and I think I was incorrect about the bolt. I also see some grease coming out in a later picture.

This is the assembly diagram
View attachment 982623

I dont think the 27 mm nut that I was turning is represented well in the diagram. #6 is the massive nut on the right in the following picture and that is probably75-100mm.
View attachment 982627
If you look carefully you can see some grease at the top of that picture on top of the threads. I need to go back out there and check. There may be a relief hole there and turning that 27 mm nut may have opened it. The fact that there is no old grease on this tells me it is a result of something that was done yesterday.

The number 6 nut is the really big one that goes around the whole thing. You definitely don’t want to loosen that one. The correct bolt is possible labeled #3 but it looks more like the pointed one that lays between #1 and #3 that’s not labeled. The one that has the grease fittings in the end is the one that needs loosened. It looks like it already has been loosened some and lost a little grease. Maybe remove the bracket that’s encasing it and remove it completely if the tensioner still won’t go back. You shouldn’t have to remove the bracket though. If it’s backed up as far as the bracket will allow it should let the tensioner go back. This is a picture of the bolt that holds the grease in.