I fought the '75 Troybilt and Won!

   / I fought the '75 Troybilt and Won! #1  

NoTrespassing

Elite Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2003
Messages
2,682
Location
East Central Illinois
Tractor
Kubota 1999 L3710 HST FWA
I fought the \'75 Troybilt and Won!

Went toe to toe for 3 hours, called a few people for help, couldn't reach em, still won in the end.

Fighting out of the red corner: 1975 6hp. Tecumseh Troybilt tiller.

Fighting out of the blue corner: A 40 yr. old guy that hates working on small engines and can put cuss words together in combinations that few people could imagine.

The challenge started over 2 years ago and the fight was destined to happen sooner or later. The Troybilt thru down the gauntlet by spewing gas out of its carburetor killing several patches of grass. Not to be goaded into a fight easily, the 40 year old used a coffee can to catch the gas for two tilling seasons, avoiding the fight at all costs. The fight was on when the wife of the 40 year old got tired of new dead spots all over the place from unavoidable gas spillage. Its was time for the 40 year old to start training, he knew it would be the fight of his life.

The day before the scheduled fight, the 40 year old started training by going to the small engine parts store. He picked up a float and gasket. The morning of the fight he worked out by doing the spring maintenance on the lawn tractor. He sharpened the blades, changed the oil and oil filter, and even deleted the reverse safety switch that turns the blades off. He knew he was ready.

The fight started slowly at first. The 40 year old got in the best punches, changing the float without even removing the carburator. He had the Troybilt tiller on the ropes early but it wasn't going to be as easy as it seemed. In the second round the Troybilt struck back by refusing to run right. It coughed and sputtered and played havoc with the 40 year olds nerves. It played the ropadope, first pretending to run right and the running terribly. No matter how many times he started the tiller he couldn't get it to right right. The 40 year old was confounded, throwing amazing combinations of cuss words that didn't seem to phase the Troybilt. The fight went on for hours. He tried adjusting the fuel. He tried removing the air cleaner. He tried adjusting the idle and the fuel together. He checked the fuel line but nothing seem to help. He even called on friends, but this wasn't a tagteam match, he was on his own.

And then... just when he thought all hope was lost, it came to him. Words of wisdom that were spoken by a small engine guru just days before. "brass floats are adjustable" were the words that he remembered. In a flash the 40 year old had the carb off, the float adjusted andthe carb back on. The Troybuilt knew the fight was over. The 40 year old had won. All thanks to a wise small engine guru named Jim.

Kevin
 
   / I fought the '75 Troybilt and Won! #2  
Re: I fought the \'75 Troybilt and Won!

Very good, Kevin. Glad you won that fight. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
   / I fought the '75 Troybilt and Won! #3  
Re: I fought the \'75 Troybilt and Won!

I am fighting a 15 year old Troybilt tiller with a Kohler 8 hp engine. The machine hasn't run in about 8-9 years. I changed all the fluids and get it to start with starting fluid through the air cleaner but it won't keep running. I pulled the carb today and it seemed OK but I don't know what I am doing. There was gas in the bowl and nothing seemed to be too gummed up. Any thoughts?
 
   / I fought the '75 Troybilt and Won! #4  
Re: I fought the \'75 Troybilt and Won!

I just about 6 hrs ago was pulling the rip cord on a dang old troybuilt tiller with a h 5~6horse tecumpse engine. its a spewing gass and all too, the dang choke lever hold down screw keeps comming off, and my sister bought this thing new back in the 80's. well I have hated it since day one. rear tine wheelie standing POS leaks everywhere and will only run for a few min befor over reving and shtting down. have to keep constantly re-adjusting carb and rebuilding it... only thing I can say is I'm sure glad I ahve a 48" 3 point tiller... now I'll just have to tell the woman to keep the HOE going after the weeds. cause this dang thing is worth about 4 bucks in scrap metal only! lol

Mark M /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif
 
   / I fought the '75 Troybilt and Won! #5  
Re: I fought the \'75 Troybilt and Won!

Hey Mark,
I'll give you the $4 for it /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
   / I fought the '75 Troybilt and Won! #6  
Re: I fought the \'75 Troybilt and Won!

You might check the gas tank for rust. Even small particles can clog the uptake valve and of course if you get 'em in the cylinder, which ain't hard to do, you can scratch and pit the downline pretty bad. If you notice, the carb is aluminum. It scratches easy too. I ruined a Lawnboy once like that.
The reason this is so fresh to me is that my tiller (TBPony-'91 model) has only been sitting one season, covered with a large plastic flower pot with no holes in it and the gas tank looks like the inside of my barbecue pit. I guess I should have used a winterizer last year. I've been trying to start mine for about two hours and have used starting fluid, taken the tank off, pulled the spark plug and yanked on the rope 'til my hand to too sore and blistered to do anything else. I found this site while I was looking for a new gas tank for the tiller. short of buying one, I heard that you can use a pound of BB's and shake 'em around real hard and it'll break lose most of the rust scale inside the tank. Anyone else got any ideas?
 
   / I fought the '75 Troybilt and Won! #7  
Re: I fought the \'75 Troybilt and Won!

Small engine carburetors are very finicky about having gas left in them over winter. Once you do this, it is off to the local small engine repair shop to have the carburetor overhauled. The trick is to soak it in cleaner for about 24 - 48 hours and then blow out all the passages. Put in a new gasket set, set the float and reinstall. Adjust the idle and high speed screws and it is good to go for another season. When the season ends, put in a good dose of gas preservative and then run the engine until all the gas is used up. The small amount of gas that remains in the carburetor will have the gas preservative mixed with it, and will protect the carburetor over the winter. In the spring, install a new spark plug and fresh gas and you should be ready to go. I always use premium gas in all my small engines. For the little difference in cost, it is well worth the better performance. If possible, store the small engine in the cellar where it is warm. The cold engine blocks will have moisture condense on them in the middle of winter. I also change the oil in the fall after the engine has run out of gas. Open the drain plug and let it drain for a day. Then I refill with fresh oil and pull the plug. Put in about an ounce of engine oil in the spark plug hole and pull the starter rope to circulate it. Put the old plug back in and it should be ready for another season.

As for the gas tank problem, you can purchase a fuel tank liquid liner kit from most motorcycle shops and install that. Just make sure that the kit that you purchase is labeled for use with all the things that are in your local gas supply. MBTE is one of them and alcohol is another.
 
   / I fought the '75 Troybilt and Won! #8  
Re: I fought the \'75 Troybilt and Won!

Hey all:

I think I found the problem with that ole troybuilt & techumpse on it that I've been chasing. the other day i pulled the carb off and was looking to see why the dang choak was so loose. as it turns out I rememberd my brother saying something about the choak screw comming loose and killed the engine, (screw didn't get sucked in but it wouldn't run. so he fixed it.) anyhow after looking at it I realized he had installed the choak plate UPSIDE DOWN so that it would lift up and out of the lower hole a bit as the choak plate is half round almost (has a side cut out of it, that side cut out HAS to be on the bottom where the air passes the fuel suction hole for idle circuit.) otherwise it will not run! also the rounded half keeps the choak down in the lower center hole too! this was fixed and still choak wouldn't stop swinging, so I removed plate only to find out that not only was it upside down but backwards, the hole was/is not dirrectly CENTER in the choak plate. it sets slightly off center and the full off then contacts a small angled bracket behind the choak which keeps it form over centering and rotating past 90 degrees open... it may not matter for most but the little angle bracket appears to be slightly broken on mine, and that off set made all the differance in it;s ability to run!!!

anyhow it ran pretty good but still very touchy on the throttle either over reving or simply ideling... a gumbed up internal oil splase lubercator thing is how it's speed is kept constat and it blows oil smoke out around it there for ends up getting dirt fowled adn will not opperate smoothly... really bad design if you ask me. anyhow the air speed ones on the briggs seem so much simpler untill a leave gets ate! lol

Mark M /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
 
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