I Beam Trolley Mounted Chain Hoist for Implements -- What size I Beam?

[fried1765]

you could sheet the center of every 3rd or 4th with plywood or sister a 2x along the bottom chord of ever few trusses and attach to those just to be safe.

I am sure you will be fine either way though. 4 in beam should be great, just make sure the trolley fits it.

"You could sheet the center of every 3rd or 4th with plywood"

Not the best idea overall.
But.....if you insist......
Sheet the center of EVERY OTHER truss with plywood.
2' O.C. trusses?
The 5" beam should be fine.

 

[SmallChange]

Don't do it!
At least without the blessing of the truss builder and his corrective strengthening you'll have to perform. They (the bottom chord) are usually designed to only work in conjunction with the rest of the truss members to support the roof & any snow loading and some insulation and interior finishes, ie; drywall or other finishes, not any additional loading.

Just to note this, I'm spreading the load with a ten foot beam, across trusses that span twenty feet. That's a 200 square foot area. A 5 lb per square foot load seems to be a typical call-out for supporting ceiling, drywall and insulation, etc. That would be 1000 lbs in my case.

Even so, I like the idea of putting separate supports under the ends of my beam. That's going to happen on walls, not in free space, so it's easy to anchor my uprights to the walls to keep them upright, and to put concrete under the bottoms of the uprights.

 

[ruffdog]

I made my lift area 9ft x 9ft...if it fits in the door, it'll through the hoist. That is a 2 ton hoist.

 

[countrybumpkin]

Just to note this, I'm spreading the load with a ten foot beam, across trusses that span twenty feet. That's a 200 square foot area. A 5 lb per square foot load seems to be a typical call-out for supporting ceiling, drywall and insulation, etc. That would be 1000 lbs in my case.

Even so, I like the idea of putting separate supports under the ends of my beam. That's going to happen on walls, not in free space, so it's easy to anchor my uprights to the walls to keep them upright, and to put concrete under the bottoms of the uprights.

Your not understanding the load spread for the ceiling vrs what your asking to do.

 

[Nat]

I have a 10 foot 3" I-bean connected to the bottom chord of 4 trusses and have lifted 2000 pounds a couple inches off the floor and let it hang for a hour to test it. It didn't move at all so I took the 1 ton hoist off and put a 1/2 ton on it and it has been up there for 8 or 10 years. Not telling you to , just telling you what I did

 

[ruffdog]

Your not understanding the load spread for the ceiling vrs what your asking to do.

I'm thinking the same thing....here is a good thread on the subject:

Hanging a Chain Hoist from Truss? Thoughts? - The Garage Journal Board

 

[DJ54]

I put up a 15" beam, on 8" H-beams, running parallel with my trusses. Plenty of head room, so no problem using a 15 incher. I bought it all from a local demolition salvage contractor, for less than 1/3 of what the cost of a new 12" I-beam.

Holes to set them in were approx. 36" deep, below the top of the squared out anchor pad. I put rebar pins in the anchor pad, to tie it into the 6" floor I had poured for the shop floor. I had to do some serious calculations, measuring from the bottom up, to allow less than an inch clearance, for the ceiling that had not yet been installed. I made some jibs that bolted into the uprights, and used a 2-ton, double dog come-a-long on each end, anchored to the Massey 180, and IH 656 on each end.

Once I had things in place to lift it up into position, it took me 45 minutes to get it up there, by myself taking it up 3 notches at a time, on the come-a-longs. I also welded a 1/2" plate on top of the H-beams, to have something to weld the I-beam to.

It felt pretty good, when it swung into position to weld, with very little adjustment. Even better when I put the level on it, and was dead nut on. Once I had the ceiling panels in place, there is 7/8" clearance.

I had quite a few people ask, "why such a large beam, and why a 6" floor, what are you going to bring in there??". My standard answer is, "What ever I want, that will fit through the door." Even better, many ask, "How did you get that up there...??" Seeing the close ceiling clearance.

I had a similar beam in my other shop, but it spanned 6' longer. I put 3 trolley's, and 3 chain hoists on the beams, mainly for working on tractors. I can break a tractor into sections, and roll them down the beam out of the way. Either set a section on the floor, or, leave it hang, depending on how far I'm tearing it down. I came in especially handy for when I had to put new brakes an seals in the Massey 180, having to remove the loaded 16.9-38's, and axle housings.I rolled the tires out of the way, then let them down just enough they stood up. I could work on the axle housing replacing the seals, while hanging, and not have to lug it over to the bench.

I also have an assortment of lifting tabs I bolt on to whatever, made out of bar stock. Occasionally I have to make others for something specific.

Probably a lot of overkill for many people, but so far, not for me. Around here, I never know what I'll be working on. I had more than several times before even having a beam, and doing things the hard way, so decided when I built my first dream shop, I'd put up a beam that would cover all the bases. So far, so good.

Just something to ponder on, for future use.

 

[countrybumpkin]

Very nice!

 

[Citydude]

Nice job DJ. Thanks for posting.

 

[MoArk Willy]

I always like a beam on two columns, stand alone, no reliance on the strength of the roof structure.

This is the ONLY way to do it properly. The trusses are engineered to support the roof and snow load (if any) in your location. They are not intended as supports for any lifting device.
Invest in lolly columns instead of relying on the stud wall. Leave the integrity of the building intact and you will have a safe installation.