Hydraulics 101 - Connections

[sriddle1]

Recently purchased a used X730 and while doing research I noticed I can use my 47" Blower from my old 425. One thing I noticed right off the bat, the Hydraulic quick connects are on the opposite side so I went through the Parts list, purchased some gaskets and (2) 90-degree couplings since the X730 is not a straight shot in.

Since I don't know what I'm doing, I turned the 90 degree couplings on the cylinder and tightened them back up, switched the hoses since one is shorter than the other to coincide with the new destination and tightened everything up, slow and steady with a couple of subtle hits with the rubber Mallot to tighten them up.

OK, what didn't I do correctly, special torque settings, etc. I read no bleeding required, so I intend to connect see how the lines hold, am I good-to-go. This is the cylinder that provides movement to the blower chute. See attached PICs Thanks for any recommendations.

 

[orangetree]

first, 2000+ psi is no joke. Among other things, it's an injection hazard; and if you have something that is going to fail under pressure, it can fail HARD, and cause death. Your post makes me a little nervous for you - not trying to offend, just trying to help.

That said, reversing the lines to a cylinder or many motors, with manual valves and no unique check valve setup, is not a problem ... the valves will just operate it "backwards". I can't speak to if that applies to you, you'll have to do some more research and maybe post some more info.

assuming (which I cannot verify here) that you have it wired correctly, are using like fasteners (haven't somehow put a straight thread in a tappered tap, etc - you're only problem should be leaks. Check your orings (for SAE straight threads), etc. Many folks use talc to detect leaks. Dust the connections, and operate the valves. Make sure you operate them "unloaded" first (this way your hydraulic pressure will remain ~low for the initial leak test).

Please be careful, wear safety glasses, durable gloves, and take care not to hurt yourself

 

[sriddle1]

first, 2000+ psi is no joke. Among other things, it's an injection hazard; and if you have something that is going to fail under pressure, it can fail HARD, and cause death. You're post makes me a little nervous for you - not trying to offend, just trying to help.

Thanks for Technical response and word of Caution, just what I needed, the facts. Yes, I put everything together, used the new rubber o rings and added the "90-degree elbows". I held off until I received some assurance that I didn't do anything drastically wrong that would cause a failure.

I see I may have been a bit awkward in my description, I reversed direction of the (2) the 90-degree elbows coming off the cylinder now headed to the left, before they were headed right. Once i did that, I swapped the lines to accommodate the location of the quick disconnects + added the 90-degree elbows to the ends.

I took my time, aligned things up, hand-tightened the connections and then tapped them subtly with a rubber mallet to tighten them down. I read to be very careful not to over-tighten and I remembered the force to loosen them up. Yes, I agree with your caution, this is no joke and no offense taken. Just wondering for those who work in this field, I'm sure the local JD Dealerships deal with this all the time, do they simply hand tighten these or have a measurable torque wrench. I remember seeing on-line for a more complex situation a chart indicating "X" PSI line capacity required 1/4 turn once hand tight.

Like the idea of talc to detect leaks. Yes, I will certainly Dust the connections, and operate the valves. Per your suggestion I'll operate them "unloaded" first (this way your hydraulic pressure will remain ~low for the initial leak test).

Yes, as "X" Navy, always safety first, always wear safety glasses, durable gloves. Loving Wife always saying don't hurt yourself..... Have a Great day !

 

[sriddle1]

FIRST, THANKS orangetree, all your suggestions worked perfectly, the talc powder gave a different smell to the garage but no leaks.

OK, next Hydraulic Connection question PLEASE. Attached find (3) Pics, the first shows the two Quick Disconnect lines originating from the Front Quick Hitch BM17347 headed into the tractor's Green and Black ports, sorry for the incorrect terminology. Taking the Quick Hitch from a JD425 and now using it on the (2021) X730, to do that it requires 90-degree elbows. In the 2nd Pic it shows the green line with the quick disconnect nipple removed, looked like remnants of a white substance in the thread, perhaps Teflon Tape or Pipe Dope which I removed. The third Pic shows the nipple and the 90m degree elbow that JD sent along with the tractor for this application and lastly, the 4th pic shows the insides of the nipple and the 90-elbow sent by JD Dealership.

So, in the original connection between the nipple to the hose threaded end I didn't see where the use of an o-ring would apply. Would this indeed be a place for tape or pipe dope, or should it have another coupling in between. Similar question with the new connection between nipple (female) to the threaded end (male) of the JD supplied 90-degree elbow. Tape, or pipe dope ?

I'm not in a rush, still time before use of the snowblower. Thanks for any technical assistance

 

[oldnslo]

Those look like pipe thread fitting so yes some form of thread sealant is required.

 

[sriddle1]

Those look like pipe thread fitting so yes some form of thread sealant is required.

Oldnslo, THANKS ! Just picked up some Pipe Dope @ HDepot. Want to get these new elbows finished so I know I'm set this coming winter.

 

[sriddle1]

Just returned the Pipe Dope and purchased Loctite 545 Thread Sealant for Hydraulic Fluid, mentioned in this YouTube on NPT Connections

Here's the NPT Fitting Guide used in the video.