Loader Hydraulic Warm up

[johndam]

I am pretty new at Kubota ownership. Just wondering, should you run the tractor for a certain amount of time to warm up the hydraulic fluids. Thanks

 

[oldnslo]

If the hydro tranny squeals or growls a lot while trying to move or the loader is sluggish and very noisy these are indications the pump is starving or cavitating due to cold thick oil.

 

[arkydog]

i wait up to 15 minutes in cold. ok to move outside at first, fumes. 2-3 when warm

 

[davesl708]

I engage the mid-mount and rear PTO to get the hyd. fluid moving to help warm it up. Slowly raise and lower the FEL to move the cold fluid into the flow.

Warm up for 5 to 15 minutes depending on how cold. Easier on seal and the pump.

 

[nikerret]

The manual states to let it warm up for five minutes, as a minimum. In cold weather it recommends over 20 minutes warm up.

 

[Rustyiron]

I do a generous warm up all the time, the colder, the longer, esp below freezing. I just imagine (in the hydraulic system) a $1 "O" ring that is $300-400 in service deep into the tractor, and rock hard, failing in those conditions. I'll bet that there are at least a couple dozen of them in a tractor.

 

[Wagtail]

I do a generous warm up all the time, the colder, the longer, esp below freezing. I just imagine (in the hydraulic system) a $1 "O" ring that is $300-400 in service deep into the tractor, and rock hard, failing in those conditions. I'll bet that there are at least a couple dozen of them in a tractor.

That's a bloody good way of looking at it. Good onya!

 

[Stargazer]

I always heard to using it lightly ie just moving slowly or up/down loader (good idea on pto on) will warm faster basically 1-2 min to stop diesel shake/unburnt fuel just above idle. sub zero maybe longer idle

 

[sandyc]

I let it run at fast idle until the temp gets to operation range. In my case that is three bars on the gauge which can take up to 15 minutes at below zero.

 

[BigBoyToys]

When it's cold the block heater get plugged in for 30 minutes or so...starts like it a nice summer day! Then she sits running at 1200 rpm for 15-20 minutes occasionally working the FEL to warm up the hydro oil. Block heater was a easy install and worth the $60!!! Anything to help keep the cold starting wear and tear down.

 

[RaydaKub]

I let it run at fast idle until the temp gets to operation range.

If that was the criteria, I'm not sure I could ever drive mine. After a couple hours of scooping snow, my gauge is just barely into normal range. It will never get there at an idle if it is below about 10.

I added a block heater this fall and when I've needed to start it, I've turned it on for an hour or 2. Open the hood and the air is warm around the engine. Feels like I finished mowing an hour ago. I wish there was a decent heater for the HST/hydraulics. I put my FEL in float and activate rear & mid pto to circulate fluid as much as possible. I give it 5 minutes or so, then I take it really slow and easy while it limbers up.

 

[big bubba]

The manual states to let it warm up for five minutes, as a minimum. In cold weather it recommends over 20 minutes warm up.

sound advice. if you have access to the owners manual, it states warm up times according to ambient temps. basically 10-20 min according to winter start up temps in your area. once the water temp gauge reaches operating temp, you should be good to apply full load to tractor. best regards

 

[Rustyiron]

It would be nice to have an hyd. oil temp guage. Engine coolant temp imo has little relationship with the hydaulics at warmup. I'm more concened with that "end" of the machine for possible expensive damage in my "o ring" scenario above.

 

[ccsial]

I use the block heater too. But I still let it warm up since the block heater does not warm the hydraulics.

 

[czechsonofagun]

I see my error, will warm her up next time first

 

[MinnesotaEric]

I am pretty new at Kubota ownership. Just wondering, should you run the tractor for a certain amount of time to warm up the hydraulic fluids. Thanks

I live in northern Minnesota which climate wise is referred to as the polar peninsula. I let the any engine run long enough until I do not hear piston slap, rod or crank knocking (crank knock is a single noise with every engine revolution, rod knock is a double tap with every engine revolution), pump whine from cavitation either from the hydraulic pump or the HST pump. This is maybe 40 seconds in 40 degree weather, or a few minutes in 5 degree weather.

 

[Rmart30]

It would be nice to have an hyd. oil temp guage. Engine coolant temp imo has little relationship with the hydaulics at warmup. I'm more concened with that "end" of the machine for possible expensive damage in my "o ring" scenario above.

No Hyd temp guage on them to me is not wise on Kubotas part. Especially on HST machines it should come standard. At the very least a "overheat light" for the HST.

 

[Patches]

If that was the criteria, I'm not sure I could ever drive mine. After a couple hours of scooping snow, my gauge is just barely into normal range. It will never get there at an idle if it is below about 10.

You need to cover your radiator opening; you can purchase a canvas at your dealer for a price, or you can make one from almost any material that is wind proof. Mine is made from a Bud Light 12 pack cardboard carrier, tie wrapped to the grill screen. It covers practically the entire opening, and the tractor has never overheated, but runs at optimum temp, but I'm in the "colder than Mars" zone

 

[dchemphill1]

With the new tier iv engines they tell you to not idle very much!

 

[MinnesotaEric]

With the new tier iv engines they tell you to not idle very much!

DPF tier IV, exactly right.