Hydraulic Top links

   / Hydraulic Top links #1  

bsrfarms97

Silver Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2011
Messages
118
Tractor
John Deere 3150
Hey everyone im looking for opinions on hydraulic top links. How do they hold up in heavy use? (plowing, or hauling rolled hay on 3pt spear) which one would be best suited for 100hp tractor?
 
   / Hydraulic Top links #2  
I added hydraulic top links to my JD 4120 & 1026R this spring. I wish I would have known about them years ago.
The hydraulic top link makes hooking up implements easier. I can change the pitch of rear attachments such as a box blade on the go.
I personally would not be with out a hydraulic top link again. I have not had any problems with mine. When I do not have a rear implement on my 4120, I have a 1000+ pound weight box on the 3 point. Both of my top links have double-piloted check valves. I do recommend them. The check valves keep the cylinder from setteling & they are also safety devices. If a hydraulic were to rupture while the an implement is raised, the implement will not drop.

You will need to get one that is the right category for your 3 point. The length will will depend on how you use your hitch.

I got mine from Agri Store.

Hydraulic Top Links by Category - Agristore USA | Top-quality agricultural, lawn & garden and industrial replacement parts at prices you can afford | Indianapolis, IN
 
   / Hydraulic Top links #3  
I was plowing potatoes, had a ton of extra weight on for down pressure, hit a big rock that jarred the tractor... it's been leaking ever since. Replaced the seals where it was leaking which slowed it down but it's still leaking a little. I have it off now, hoping to get more seals (better ones?).
 
   / Hydraulic Top links
  • Thread Starter
#4  
the biggest implement id be pulling would be a triple bottom sod buster with one. I was just wondering how one would hold up.
 
   / Hydraulic Top links #5  
Unless you are getting gnarley side loads on them a hydraulic cylinder is going to be thicker & beefier than a standard screw type toplink. Heck I bet my toplink is twice the strength of stock, even with sideloads.

I'm happy with my Fit Right setup.

I'd guess any force enough to cause the cylinder to leak would trash a stock link as well, assuming you have a properly sized quality cylinder.
 
   / Hydraulic Top links #6  
I have had hydraulic top link for going on 4 years now. I can still remember the agony of hooking up implements and constant stopping to get off and readjust with the manual link. I would never be without it.
 
   / Hydraulic Top links #7  
I can't imagine ever operating without one. As far as strength, I unknowingly got mine stuck on my drawbar and extended it. It bent the drawbar like it was a twig.

Many of us have worked with Brian (MtnViewRanch) who handles Fit Rite Hydraulics and have been very pleased with his products.
 
   / Hydraulic Top links #8  
I got my hydraulic top link(Fit Rite) a little over a year ago. It was a snap to instal, went on with no mods required and has functioned perfectly. I had a class 2 manual top link on tractor and the Fit Rite unit is easily 2X more robust. Until I got a hyd top link and used it - my opinion was that they were unnecessary. Man, was my opinion based upon wrong info. I've found it so very handy to not have to make manual adjustments any more. Just twitch the lever and get instant feedback from the implement you are using. No more - stop, get off, loosen & twist the manual top link, retighten, hope you made the correct adjustment, get back on, go & check to see if it is correct. I'm not a lazy person - I work hard when out on the property. However, I can get frustrated and the hyd top link saves a lot of frustration.
 
   / Hydraulic Top links #9  
While I don't have a hydraulic top link, I want one!. I learned my lesson while spreading a bunch of dirt with a small angle blade. I was constantly getting on and off of the tractor to adjust the top link to set the angle of attack of the blade. It is not that I am just lazy, as has been pointed out by others, when you hop off of the tractor to make an adjustment, you have to "try" that adjustment on the materiel you are working. It would seem much easier to adjust it on the fly and get instant feedback as to how that adjustment worked out.
 
   / Hydraulic Top links #10  
While I don't have a hydraulic top link, I want one!. I learned my lesson while spreading a bunch of dirt with a small angle blade. I was constantly getting on and off of the tractor to adjust the top link to set the angle of attack of the blade. It is not that I am just lazy, as has been pointed out by others, when you hop off of the tractor to make an adjustment, you have to "try" that adjustment on the materiel you are working. It would seem much easier to adjust it on the fly and get instant feedback as to how that adjustment worked out.
James, you need to get one.
You already have a set of rear remotes.
Once you go hydraulic top link, you will wonder why you didn't do it sooner.
 
   / Hydraulic Top links #11  
No fawking way I'd do 3pt work without one. That turnbuckle is a waste of time.
 
   / Hydraulic Top links #12  
One of the best things I installed! You can get them for $180-300 online, plus figure another $20-40 for hoses and fittings. Easy and fun project.
 
   / Hydraulic Top links #13  
I am pretty sure that the top link for a JD3150 does not use the std ball swivel at the tractor end. The knuckle end (u joint) type end hydraulic top links that are available off the shelf sometimes do not fit without reworking them. So that $340 kit cost + shipping of a heavy unit is most likely not going to be his total cost. And then he needs to get one that is the right working length, that can be another problem.

So for the OP, a properly fit hydraulic top link is not quite so easy. :(

I happen to know of a place that can take care of him though, just needs to be patient and have a few extra $$$ if he wants a unit that fits right. ;)
 
   / Hydraulic Top links
  • Thread Starter
#14  
I am pretty sure that the top link for a JD3150 does not use the std ball swivel at the tractor end. The knuckle end (u joint) type end hydraulic top links that are available off the shelf sometimes do not fit without reworking them. So that $340 kit cost + shipping of a heavy unit is most likely not going to be his total cost. And then he needs to get one that is the right working length, that can be another problem.

So for the OP, a properly fit hydraulic top link is not quite so easy. :(

I happen to know of a place that can take care of him though, just needs to be patient and have a few extra $$$ if he wants a unit that fits right. ;)

You are correct. My standard toplink will cost $300. The knuckle type is a must for me. I tried a standard cat 2 on some plows once and snapped the top clean off. I have my factory toplink and it performs flawlessly. But just like many others im trying to find a way to make life alittle easier.
 
   / Hydraulic Top links #15  
You are correct. My standard toplink will cost $300. The knuckle type is a must for me. I tried a standard cat 2 on some plows once and snapped the top clean off. I have my factory toplink and it performs flawlessly. But just like many others im trying to find a way to make life alittle easier.

Get me a working length that you want and I will do some layout and see what I can do for you. Plus get me the distance between your pin on the tractor and the mount on the tractor. 5/8" 3/4" ? :confused3:

I just did a cat 3 for a Case last month, big is no problem. Big or small, I build them all. ;)
 

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