Box Scraper Hydraulic Top Link Length and Box Blade

[Spudland_Dave]

I hear you, SPUDLAND. I have made up 4 or 5 hyd toplinks, and it has cost
about $55 for a 2x8x1.125 cyl, and $12 for two forged swivel eyes.

Where'd you get your swivel eyes? I've been looking for "weld on" swivel eyes but cant find em...only find the thread on style...Which is kinda why I was gonna use the Surplus Center cylinders with them already on it...just cut em off and re-weld em into the correct position...
If I could find the swivel eyes, I could use a cylinder I already have or get something even cheaper from SC or such...

 

[3RRL]

Here's one I found at Surplus Center.
Ball Swivel Joint

 

[dfkrug]

Where'd you get your swivel eyes? I've been looking for "weld on" swivel eyes but cant find em...only find the thread on style...Which is kinda why I was gonna use the Surplus Center cylinders with them already on it...just cut em off and re-weld em into the correct position...

I buy the mechanical toplinks from AgriSupply and cut the swivel eyes off.
The cheapest toplink is up to $12 now. I did not know SC had the naked
swivel eyes (thanks Rob!) and I would buy them in a heartbeat, but you
might prefer the toplink eyes with the forged "collars".

Agrisupply now sells an hyd toplink now, too, but they are $180+ shipping
and have no DPOCVs. AS also has the 3PH swivel eyes with 7/8" hole for
$4.

 

[Spudland_Dave]

Great ideas guys, enough to get the wheels turning and I found a few things:

JD PN: PM00310:

for $8.16

Or for 4.99 you can get the replacement top link end from AgriSupply:

Think I'm gonna be ordering up the JD one when I swing by to get some parts I got on order.. I'll be posting pics of what I got cookin when I get all the ingredients together...

 

[GIJOE]

Here's one at TSC
Tractor Supply Company - SpeeCo Top Link End Category 1 Weld On 3 Point

Joe

 

[3RRL]

I buy the mechanical toplinks from AgriSupply and cut the swivel eyes off.
The cheapest toplink is up to $12 now. I did not know SC had the naked
swivel eyes (thanks Rob!) and I would buy them in a heartbeat, but you
might prefer the toplink eyes with the forged "collars".

Agrisupply now sells an hyd toplink now, too, but they are $180+ shipping
and have no DPOCVs. AS also has the 3PH swivel eyes with 7/8" hole for
$4.

Dave,
Can you give a link to that 7/8" hole 3ph swivel please.
I got lost in their website.

 

[Renovator]

I bought the Agri-Supply top link because it had more romm than the standard cylinder from them. I broke a hose off so I had to turn the fittngs to the bottom haven't had a problem since. I would have bought A CCM toplink but they didn't have the size I needed.
renovator

 

[seapea]

Does anyone have an exact measurement of the length of the CCM 21-32" hydraulic top link when completely retracted? Obviously it's close to 21", but I need an exact measurement (center of eye hole to center of eye hole). There are few reasons I ask:

• Currently I have a SpeeCo toplink that is suppose to be 21-31", but is it closer to 20" when fully retracted (which is actually good in my case).
• When using my boxblade, 21" is marginally acceptable. I could really use something a bit shorter. 21" allows for the rear blade to be maybe 2.5" higher than the front. That is probably enough, but if the retracted toplink length is more like 21.5", then maybe it is not enough.
• I can't go with the 18-26.5" because my landcape rake requires about 28" to get it level with the ground. I suppose I could rig up a short run of chain to extend the toplink as proposed in another thread, but then I'd need to use the 3PT lift to adjust the rake bite rather than the HTL.

BTW, I do have PEC already.

thanks,

Chris

 

[greg_g]

Don't forget Chris, that your 2620 should have at least one more set of hole on the bracket to which you pin the toplink. Each set changes slightly the angle at which the toplink attaches to the implement. The greater the angle, the shorter the effective length - open or closed.

//greg//

 

[seapea]

Don't forget Chris, that your 2620 should have at least one more set of hole on the bracket to which you pin the toplink. Each set changes slightly the angle at which the toplink attaches to the implement. The greater the angle, the shorter the effective length - open or closed.

//greg//

Thanks. I started cluing into this after I posted last night. I currently have the toplink in the top hole. The bottom hole is 2" lower. I'll spare how I did my calculation, but it looks like using the bottom hole will increase the distance to the toplink pin on the box scraper by .66", so this will definitely help.

I'd still like the exact measurement of the CCM 21-32" toplink if anyone has one.

thanks,

Chris