Box Scraper Hydraulic Top Link Length and Box Blade

[GIJOE]

I am trying to determine what length of a HTL to get. I am looking at two that may fit the bill. The first one measures in at 19-1/4" - 31-1/4" and the second on at 21-1/4" - 35-1/4". The first one would give me plenty of forward tilt for the scarifiers but would only allow enough rear tilt to get the front blade off the ground about 2" for leveling. The second will still allow a few inches of scarifiers in the ground when tilted forward and will allow a lot more clearance of the front blade when tilted to the rear. So, what's more important, forward tilt or rear tilt? How much of the scarifiers should penetrate the ground and how high should the front blade be above the ground to effectively use a box blade?

Joe

 

[greg_g]

Three questions first:
1. is the boxblade the ONLY implement you'll be using the HTL with? Your ultimate HTL choice might have to be a compromise so it will work with every thing you own (or plan to own).
2. is there any possibility you'll ever buy something like Pat's Easy Change system for the lower lift arms? (They add >3" to the length, which usually results in owners buying longer toplinks).
3. Assuming you're shopping for the 3510, are you sure those HTLs are for a Cat 1 rear lift? I've never seen one with a 12" extension, much less a 14". I ask, because I'm pretty sure my Cat 2 HTL has only an 8" throw.

//greg//

 

[GIJOE]

Hey Greg,

1. The HTL would stay with the tractor, so it would be used with my other implements. The only other one that would benifit from a HTL would be my Woods rear blade. I think the rotary cutter and finish mower would fall within the length adjustment of either one of these HTL.
2.I do have the PEC system and that is why I need a longer than normal top link.
3.Yes, it is for the 3510. Here are the links to the top links. They are cat1.

Surplus Center Item Detail

Surplus Center Item Detail

Joe

 

[greg_g]

Those are very attractive prices, I paid nearly double that for mine. But that's neither here nor there. The question is about what size. I've uploaded a picture to help clarify this response.

Your selection should be based upon what closed length will give you the geometry in the photo. That is, the HTL eye should be as close as possible a vertical line through the lower lift arm swivel balls - or in our case, through the PEC hooks. If you're limiting your choice to those two, this criteria in itself should pretty much make the open length academic.

//greg//

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Wow, those are some small diameter cylinders. I'm not sure that you are going to be happy with a small cylinder like those have. You will find that most people are using either 2", 2 & 1/2", or 3" cylinders.

Good luck with your decision.

 

[Glowplug]

I'm not absolutely convinced those cylinders are truly designed specifically for a hydraulic toplink. Nonetheless, even if they were, I'd be hesitant to purchase them due to the cylinder diameter. So I agree with MtnViewRanch.

 

[JerryG]

Joe,
I used one of those cylinders with a 2" diameter for a while. The ball that is mounted on the body of the cylinder is to close to the cylinder. When the cylinder would turn to one side or the other the body would contact the hitch point on the tractor. I have some pretty big grooves in the cylinder because of that. I would suggest that you get a cylinder for Carter and Carter. Theirs don't have that problem.
You need to size the cylinder to where you can tilt the implement forward as well as back. You need both directions from straight up especially for a box blade.
Set you box blade on the ground level with the rippers shanks up out of the way. Measure the distance from the center of the eye on the box to the center of the eye on your tractor (preferably the center hole if you have three holes). That measurement needs to fall in the middle of the distance allowed by the available cylinder.

 

[greg_g]

You need to size the cylinder to where you can tilt the implement forward as well as back. You need both directions from straight up especially for a box blade.

My experience may be more limited than yours. I suppose if the boxblade lift pins are in a vertical line with the toplink holes, what you say might be valid. I based my recommendation on an assumption that the OP boxblade is built like mine; where the toplink pin holes are offset a few inches to the rear of vertical. Like this one: http://www.bergdahlsinc.com/images/boxblade.jpg

I didn't feel like dropping my rotary cutter and mounting the boxblade just to take a photo. But when I do, the HTL has to first be extended several inches to reach the BB pin holes. When retracted, it then pulls the rear of the BB about 3-4 inches off the ground. That's plenty of forward movement for me, and is the reason I suggested selecting the HTL that's closest to being vertical with the PEC hooks.

Now if the OP's boxblade has a different geometry than mine, that shines the light back on your recommendation.

//greg//

 

[JerryG]

Greg,
If the HTL is bottomed out in either direction with the implement in the level position, it isn't a HTL that I would want. I want to be able to adjust the implement in either direction.
I suggested taking the measurement off of the box blade because it is the implement that uses the widest adjustment of a top link. I am sure that I'm not the only one that uses the full extent of adjustment both forward and aft with the box blade.

 

[GIJOE]

Thanks for the info guys.
If I understand this correctly, I need to sit the BB down on level ground with the rear blade about four inches off the ground, and that should be close to the shortest length of the HTL I need (maybe allow an extra inch). If so, I'll try that today and see what I come up with.

Joe