ovrszd
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- May 27, 2006
- Messages
- 33,499
- Location
- Missouri
- Tractor
- Kubota M9540, Ford 3910FWD, Ford 555A, JD2210
Finally decided to build a Tilt Link. I bought my goods thru Surplus Center and one item at the local tractor supply store. Here's the list from Surplus Center.
Item # 9-7261-8 3x8x1.5 DA Hyd Cyl Swivel Eyes
Item # 9-5460-8-6 (2) 1/2 NPT to 3/8 NPT Bushings
Item # 9-6901-8-8 (2) SAE 8M x 3/8 NPTF 90 Swivel
Item # 928-AA (2) 1/2" NPT Coupler Male Tip S71-4
Item # 918-3236 3/8 x 36" 3/8 NPTM x 3/8 MPTM 4000 PSI Hyd Hose
Item # 918-3224 3/8 x 24" 3/8 NPTM x 3/8 NPTM 4000 PSI Hyd Hose
Total Surplus Center cost with 3 day shipping was $253.75. Cost of the CAT I link was $8.50. Parts total cost was $262.25.
Then went to Tractor Supply store and bought a Weld-On replacement end for CAT I 3pt lower link. This is used because the tractor pin size where the link fastens to the lift arm at the top is 7/8". Also I needed a little extra length from the pin location to the barrel of the cylinder so it wouldn't bind when fully lifted.
First thing I did was cut off the Swivel Eyes on both ends. Yeah,,,,, kinda silly. I could have saved $10 by buying a clevis ended cylinder and cut them off instead, but done deal now.
Welded the boughten CAT I link end to the barrel of the cylinder. Then built a lower end to match the capabilities of the factory Kubota end. Kubota designs their end to be pinned in a float position which allows 3" of vertical travel. I like that feature when using a 3pt Brush Cutter. Lets one side of the cutter ride over humps without having to lift the entire cutter.
I also moved the adjustable factory link to the left side and removed the fixed factory link. Now I have considerably more vertical adjustment and can vary the amount of lift or lower capability of the hydraulic link.
Here's a couple pics of the factory fixed link beside my homemade link for comparison.
Here's a couple pics of the installed link and the use of the rectangular headed pin that holds it to the tractor. By removing the clip at the end of the pin, and removing the recangular washer on the inside, then turn the pin and washer 1/4 turn in either direction and reinserting you get the float effect I talked about earlier.
Here's three pics of the final result.
I had earlier built a hydraulic top link in a similar fashion. Used my new hydraulic top/tilt system pretty hard over the last week. Can't imagine life without it. Total cost of materials for top and tilt links was $520.70. Cheapest gain of productivity I've ever had. :thumbsup:
Item # 9-7261-8 3x8x1.5 DA Hyd Cyl Swivel Eyes
Item # 9-5460-8-6 (2) 1/2 NPT to 3/8 NPT Bushings
Item # 9-6901-8-8 (2) SAE 8M x 3/8 NPTF 90 Swivel
Item # 928-AA (2) 1/2" NPT Coupler Male Tip S71-4
Item # 918-3236 3/8 x 36" 3/8 NPTM x 3/8 MPTM 4000 PSI Hyd Hose
Item # 918-3224 3/8 x 24" 3/8 NPTM x 3/8 NPTM 4000 PSI Hyd Hose
Total Surplus Center cost with 3 day shipping was $253.75. Cost of the CAT I link was $8.50. Parts total cost was $262.25.
Then went to Tractor Supply store and bought a Weld-On replacement end for CAT I 3pt lower link. This is used because the tractor pin size where the link fastens to the lift arm at the top is 7/8". Also I needed a little extra length from the pin location to the barrel of the cylinder so it wouldn't bind when fully lifted.
First thing I did was cut off the Swivel Eyes on both ends. Yeah,,,,, kinda silly. I could have saved $10 by buying a clevis ended cylinder and cut them off instead, but done deal now.
Welded the boughten CAT I link end to the barrel of the cylinder. Then built a lower end to match the capabilities of the factory Kubota end. Kubota designs their end to be pinned in a float position which allows 3" of vertical travel. I like that feature when using a 3pt Brush Cutter. Lets one side of the cutter ride over humps without having to lift the entire cutter.
I also moved the adjustable factory link to the left side and removed the fixed factory link. Now I have considerably more vertical adjustment and can vary the amount of lift or lower capability of the hydraulic link.
Here's a couple pics of the factory fixed link beside my homemade link for comparison.
Here's a couple pics of the installed link and the use of the rectangular headed pin that holds it to the tractor. By removing the clip at the end of the pin, and removing the recangular washer on the inside, then turn the pin and washer 1/4 turn in either direction and reinserting you get the float effect I talked about earlier.
Here's three pics of the final result.
I had earlier built a hydraulic top link in a similar fashion. Used my new hydraulic top/tilt system pretty hard over the last week. Can't imagine life without it. Total cost of materials for top and tilt links was $520.70. Cheapest gain of productivity I've ever had. :thumbsup: