Hydraulic steering help

/ Hydraulic steering help #21  
The problem is that the wheels angle in when they are lifted, so he would have to re-work the way that they lift in order to use a tie rod.

------>snip<----------

Aaron Z
I think it would work if the tie rod was mounted so it could slide at the same height as the pivot pins for the lift cylinders. It would need ball joints on a link parallel to and the same length as the lift cylinder.

With the wheels down it would be nearly straight. It doesn't have to move very far when turning lock to lock.

Wonder what the turning radius is on that sled?
 
/ Hydraulic steering help #22  
The problem is that the wheels angle in when they are lifted, so he would have to re-work the way that they lift in order to use a tie rod.Aaron Z

If the frt axles were configurated similar to to older style(mid 60''s to mid 80's GM) A frame pickup frt ends a tie rod could be used connecting both sides.
 
/ Hydraulic steering help #23  
Well I guess I'm missing something. With all cyls. full of oil and you plug the feed line I don't understand how the cyls could move. They should be locked up to me.
 
/ Hydraulic steering help #24  
I think it would work if the tie rod was mounted so it could slide at the same height as the pivot pins for the lift cylinders. It would need ball joints on a link parallel to and the same length as the lift cylinder.
With the wheels down it would be nearly straight. It doesn't have to move very far when turning lock to lock.
Wonder what the turning radius is on that sled?
Meh, it would be cheaper, simpler and faster to use the existing lines and plumb it as shown in my "B" diagram... Nothing new would be needed other than a plug if you put a Tee in the middle of the green line (so that you could reuse the two existing lines rather than buying a new longer line) and a pair of couplers where the Tees are currently to connect the short red and blue lines to the long lines from the steering box.
The wheels wont turn parallel (due to the differences in the displacement between the rod and base ends of the cylinder), but it should be close enough and it would only require reconnecting the 4 lines.

Aaron Z
 
/ Hydraulic steering help #26  
Meh, it would be cheaper, simpler and faster to use the existing lines and plumb it as shown in my "B" diagram... Nothing new would be needed other than a plug if you put a Tee in the middle of the green line (so that you could reuse the two existing lines rather than buying a new longer line) and a pair of couplers where the Tees are currently to connect the short red and blue lines to the long lines from the steering box.
The wheels wont turn parallel (due to the differences in the displacement between the rod and base ends of the cylinder), but it should be close enough and it would only require reconnecting the 4 lines.

Aaron Z
The difference in the displacement between the rod and base ends of the cylinders is what concerned me, but it would be worth trying on this sled.
 
/ Hydraulic steering help #27  
Well I guess I'm missing something. With all cyls. full of oil and you plug the feed line I don't understand how the cyls could move. They should be locked up to me.

I got it now, you are right.
Here is visual proof, push down one fork, the other comes up. It is the reason my Independent Forks work.
P9060001.JPG P9060002.JPG P9060004.JPG P9060006.JPG
More info here: FEL, TORO Groundsmaster Put Together - Page 5
 
/ Hydraulic steering help #28  
The difference in the displacement between the rod and base ends of the cylinders is what concerned me, but it would be worth trying on this sled.
If the difference in displacement was a problem, I would see how much work it would be to move one cylinder so that both were in front of or behind the wheels. That way you could die the base ends together and put your other lines into the rod end and the wheels would be in sync no matter what...
I would try it first with just re-plumbing as our golf carts (and our B7500) have a fairly significant difference in the angle of the front tires at full lock and they work fine.

Aaron Z
 
/ Hydraulic steering help #29  
Has it always had this problem, or did it once work OK but now it doesn't? (Is it a design problem or is it a part failure?)

Bruce
 
/ Hydraulic steering help #30  
"I would try it first with just re-plumbing as our golf carts (and our B7500) have a fairly significant difference in the angle of the front tires at full lock and they work fine."
Thats known as Ackerman, its designed into the steering geometry to allow sharper turns without dragging the inside tire. Racers spend a lot of time getting this set properly.
 

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