Hydraulic leak - what to do?

[Sedge1]

Friends, I have a BX2200 that has served me very well over the past 17 years or so. In fact, it has been one of the most reliable mechanical things I own. But it is showing some age, though only 550 hours on it. And one of those things is a hydraulic leak. At least, I think it is a hydraulic leak. I am not terribly mechanically inclined but am learning, as stuff goes wrong. Like this leak.
So I assume this is a fluid vs engine oil issue because of the location. And I checked the dip stick which shows no fluid, as far as I can tell.
As I said, fixing this kind of thing is not really in my wheel house. But I was wondering if it is something that I could fix myself. Like disconnecting the coupling (if that is the right term) and putting some kind of teflon or other lining on the threads. Or, if there is some product that I could cover the coupling with as a seal.
The alternative is to pay several hundreds of dollars for my not so local dealer (50 miles away) to come and get it and fix it.
Thanks in advance for any help.
David

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[newbury]

If that milky colored drip is your problem you probably need to change your hydraulic fluid anyways and find out how water is getting in.
Hydro fluid changes milky after a certain % of water.
For that leak it might just need the fitting tightened.

 

[Sedge1]

Thanks for the reply and for schooling me on the water infiltration issue which is a new one to me. What are the possible sources of water infiltration. And, yes, tightening the fitting makes perfect sense. I just wondered if there was something more to do to insure the integrity of the fitting. Thanks again.
David

 

[Username Taken]

Thanks for the reply and for schooling me on the water infiltration issue which is a new one to me. What are the possible sources of water infiltration. And, yes, tightening the fitting makes perfect sense. I just wondered if there was something more to do to insure the integrity of the fitting. Thanks again.
David

Looks like a compression fitting but I'm not a mechanic.

If it were me, I'd load it up in the bed of a pickup or in a trailer and tow it to a dealer. Doesn't really have to be your dealer. Ask around

They're not light. 1,600 lbs without the MMM, which you might want to take it off so the dealer has room to work and so it will fit in the back of a P/U. A trailer would be much better. Get somebody with experience to help you if you're uncertain or unsure of yourself. It's okay to not know how to do some things. Better to admit it to yourself rather than somebody getting hurt.

 

[LouNY]

It is most likely a JIC fitting, it may just need to be broken loose and then retightened.
As has been mentioned looks like the fluid could be changed, along with clean any screens and replacing filters.

 

[aczlan]

It is most likely a JIC fitting, it may just need to be broken loose and then retightened.
As has been mentioned looks like the fluid could be changed, along with clean any screens and replacing filters.

Could also have air in it from running low.
First tighten the fitting (one wrench on each side, probably a 3/4" and a 11/16"), then either add fluid until it reads as full, or drain it out and replace the filters (should be a drain plug underneath, one filter in front to replace and the suction screen on the right rear corner to remove, wipe off and replace), then refill it with either SUDT or SUDT2 compatible fluid.

Aaron Z

 

[Sedge1]

Aaron, are you saying that the milky consistency could be the result of air, caused by low fluid level, rather than water infiltration? My plan, subject to other suggestions, is to drain the system, replace the fluid/filter (and clean off the suction screen), as I have not done that before. I will crack and tighten the JIC fitting and keep my fingers crossed.
Thanks again.
David

 

[aczlan]

Aaron, are you saying that the milky consistency could be the result of air, caused by low fluid level, rather than water infiltration? My plan, subject to other suggestions, is to drain the system, replace the fluid/filter (and clean off the suction screen), as I have not done that before. I will crack and tighten the JIC fitting and keep my fingers crossed.
Thanks again.
David

Drain a little into a clear glass cup and see if the bubbles clear out after a few hours, or if it stays milky.
If it's water, it will look like a milkshake and stay that way. If it's bubbles it will clear up after a few hours and you should be able to see that it's bubbles.

I have seen milky looking fluid caused by the system being low and either the pump sucking in air with the incoming fluid, or they're not being enough fluid for it to rest and let the bubbles from the return settle out and it getting sucked back through the pump. When you look at it closely you should be able to see if it's bubbles.

Aaron Z

 

[Sedge1]

Aaron, will do.
Thanks, mate.
David

 

[Smokeydog]

I would fix the leak first and check your fluid level in case you have to replace a line or other repair. Then do a fluid and filter service.

 

[Sedge1]

Makes sense. Tx
David

 

[rScotty]

All good advice - especially the part about how to distinguish whether it is entrained air from running with too little fluid, or water that has gotten into the hydraulic fluid. Either way, it is probably time to drain the fluid, change the filter and put in new fluid.
But first you obviously want to see if this is a leak that can be fixed by tightening the fitting and then adding fluid. That may well be the case.
To my eye that looks like a compression fitting - also known technically as a JIC fitting. Google it. Compression fittings do not have O rings or thread sealers. They rely instead on the shape of a cup/cone fitting between a hard cone and softer cup that are forced together by the pressure of the screw threads. This is really the best of all types of pressure fitting and is preferred for many applications.
It isn't unknown for them to loosen up from vibration, and sometimes they will fail from being so overtightened that some part of the mating sealing suface or the the outer nut itself will develop a hairline fracture from over-tightening.

To tighten it right is easy, you MUST be sure to use two properly fitting wrenches so that one will hold the longer section of the fitting stable to keep it from rotating - that's the part to the left in your photo. Then you use the other wrench to turn the part that is more to the right in the illustration. All (well, almost all) fittings and bolts tighten the same way i.e. tighening is considered clockwise if all the tubing didn't exist and you could you look at the fitting from the end.
Tighten it until you feel that all the play as been taken up, and then give it some compression by turning it another 1/8 to 1/4 turn. No more than that. It should seal then.
This type of compression joint can be successfully reused several time if it is carefully assembled and the mating surfaces kept clean before tightening.
Good luck,
rScotty

 

[Sedge1]

Scotty, OP here. Many thanks for the excellent explanaion and suggestion.
David

 

[Tractor Seabee]

On steel lines like those it is not uncommon for the JIC flare on the tubing, RH side on your picture, to fracture from vibration or catching on something. The flare is not the common 45 degree like plumbing stuff. Takes a special expensive flaring tool especially on steel tubing. The flaring process can/does stretch the tubing creating a weak point. Hydraulics are not a good subject for novices.

Ron

 

[Sedge1]

Friends, OP here. Just wanted to report that the tractor gods smiled on me and my trusty BX2200. This morning I got under the tractor to examine more closely the hydraulic leak coming from what I think are the FEL lines. And as soon as I laid a crescent wrench on one side, I discovered that the JIC fitting, where the fluid was leaking from, had thoroughly loosened. So I tightened it and fired up the tractor. No more leak. So I added about 1 3/4 to 2 gallons of Super UDT, which brought the level to the high water mark. I then mowed for about 45 minutes. No whining from the HST or leak from the JIC on inspection - and no Hansel and Gretel "bread crumb" trail on the grass.
Want to thank you all for your great help, and for saving me an expensive and embarassing trip to my local dealer.
David