Hydraulic hose repair kit

[NEPA guy]

I have the LA534 Loader on the B2650. Just at the end of the season I noticed a leak just by the cylinder (see first photo.) I couldn't tell where it was coming from. Now that I'm preparing to reattach the FEL, I thought I would drop the pin on the cylinder and take a closer look so I could fix it.

When I dropped the cylinder the hose was twisted up and I can see a crack in it. I'm not sure if it's leaking from the crack or where I screw it in the cylinder. I assume to replace the hose and put it back in so its not twisted so much.

I've never worked on a hydraulic hose before and wanted to ask if there is a tool kit with various hose sizes that you can recommend for this machine, seeing that I'll be doing this on the regular and dont have the time or the resources to drive it an hour away to the nearest dealer.

I would appreciate any feedback.

Thanks

 

[Peter 315]

No hydraulic shop to have hoses made , The end on the piston if you loosen the fitting you can straighten the hose out and use two wrenches one to hold the hose and the other to tighten the fitting

 

[Dan33Klein]

Can you take the hose off and take it to a local hydraulic shop? Even Napa makes some hoses. If the hose itself is leaking there is no fix.

 

[NEPA guy]

I took the hose off and found a shop that will do it for me right away. I'm jumping in my truck now.

There isn't a kit available so we can fix stuff like this in the field?

I also noticed that there's no teflon tape in the groves on each end. Is that normal?
I thought we have to use something to bind it up so it doesn't leak. (Someone told me not to use tape and to use the hydraulic liquid seal stuff.)

 

[Peter 315]

You can use tape just start it two threads back from the end, You don't need tape on the swivel end

 

[Fallon]

Unless it's a really long hose you are far better off replacing the whole thing instead of trying to splice in a new section. By far. It's best to keep the number of fittings down as they are more likely to leak. And if you splice in a patched section on a busted hose, it's already proven to be weak. So you should replace the whole hose.

NPT fittings seal on the threads. Teflon tape & pipe dope lubricate the threads & fill the gaps between the threads. Just make sure you dont let any get past the threads into the hose where it will contaminate the oil.

Other fittings like JIC or ORB seal on machined surfaces or O-rings. They don't need tape or dope at all. They are pretty much better than NPT except more expensive.

 

[Jay4200]

For future reference, generic hoses that are 1/10th the cost of local. Buy whatever ends you need and screw them on.
Hydraulic Hose Assemblies | Hydraulic Hose and Hose Assemblies | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

 

[NEPA guy]

Just got back from the hydraulic shop. The new hose is with the green stripe. When I asked the shop guy if it was OK that this one's a little fatter because I had to run it in the groove of the FEL, he looked at me kinda funny. I guess it was a stupid question. lol.

Being that the cylinder is somewhat empty, I'm curious how once I plug it back in to the tractor and get it running, how does it deal with big pockets of air. Is there a breather or something that gets rid of the air so the system is pressurized?

Thanks for the advice!

 

[Peter 315]

Just move the loader up and down , open and close the bucket it will bleed itself ...

 

[NEPA guy]

Thanks!


Should I start a new thread?

I just noticed a leak on the floor. I thought it was just from taking the hoses on and off. I wiped everything down best i could and revved it up to 2000 rpm's. I can see the blue male end leaking from the center pin piece. Is this something I can order and simply screw on and off myself or should I have the shop do it? It's still under warranty. I wonder if it has anything to do with the hydraulic cylinder breaking a few days ago, when I turned the blade to the left and it popped. Is left blue?

Please advise.