Hydraulic heat
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DuckSlayer1017
Platinum Member
Very normal for them to be warm to hot.
boggen
Elite Member
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2011
- Messages
- 3,789
- Location
- Trivoli, IL
- Tractor
- SSTT (Sideways Snake Tain Tractor) and STB (sideways train box) tractor, dirt harvester
x2
the hydrualic pump, to all the valves, all the fittings, all the pipes and hoses, and then the hydraulic cylinders. there ends up being a lot of "friction" of the oil flowing through it all. this friction creates heat, resulting in stuff heating up.
radiator for cars/trucks/tractors. generally always up in front of the engine. BUT there also generally tends to be a hydraulic oil cooler (looks like a smaller version of the radiator for the engine),
and some times you can find a "transmission oil cooler" up in front, or some place behind the engine or just below near the transmission. (no idea if your tractor has a transmission oil cooler" or not.
but what i am trying to get at... is you need to make sure you blow the radiator and these oil coolers out. from all the dust, pollen, etc... that will clog up the fines and like on the radiator/coolers. a "leaf blower" can be a nice easy way to do this. other times a simple air compressor can be used with a blow gun.
TIP: generally i attach a hose to the blow gun, so i can push it down and around as needed to get into places.
TIP: if using air compressor having a "large tank" really helps, but if you have say 10 gallons or less air tank, you may need to blow some, then wait till air compressor pumps it back up. then blow some more. the pressure helps a lot when you can not get in close to spots.
if you are having issues getting into some areas. but can run a long pipe down into the area. due just that get a long pipe, and then put an end cap on one end, and attach blow gun to other end. and then drill a couple holes or so on end of pipe. so it blows out air to the side. (90 degree)
TIP: cut a V notch in a 2x4, and a drill press helps drilling holes into pipe.
clevalley
Bronze Member
They make something called a Radiator Genie which has two pieces; one for water one for air. They work GREAT for cleaning out radiator debris.
Browneyesvictim
Silver Member
Do you know what your hydraulic temperatures are? Do you have "idiot" lights or gauges? either or both? Get an infrared temp gun and shoot around on your hydraulic system. If you just have high temp "idiot lights", do you know at what "high temp" they are to go off at? What does your book say?
Specifically check the temps at the inlets and outlets of your hydraulic oil cooler. It may often be stacked in front of the engine radiator or in some cases mounted elsewhere as boggen pointed out. It could even have an electric fan (and possibly not working). Yes! and make sure it is clean! It sometime is integrated into a multi-core radiator as a two or three core in rows of the radiator.
Some hydraulic oil coolers and transmission coolers will have a THERMAL BYPASS (not a thermostat) wherein oil will bypass the cooler in cold weather to reduce pressure in the return side on start-up. If this fails, generally it will split the flow to the cooler and to tank and hydraulic cooling will be partially reduced.
Typically you shouldn't see around 130-150'F as a normal high (depending on the system and ambient temps of course) of a hydraulic system, but there are some that 190-200' is normal but this is an exception unless you live in Arizona or something. ;-) Most importantly, check your book and go by what it says.
At 190 hours, have you already done the first (initial) hydraulic service? Is the right oil being used? Something else to think about is using an approved synthetic oil can reduce operating temps by as much as 20'F in some cases as well as help starting in cold months.
The #1 flaw of my Max is the problem of debris and fodder plugging the grille vents and cooler and radiator. I must stop at least twice while mowing or things will heat into the RED!
Specifically check the temps at the inlets and outlets of your hydraulic oil cooler. It may often be stacked in front of the engine radiator or in some cases mounted elsewhere as boggen pointed out. It could even have an electric fan (and possibly not working). Yes! and make sure it is clean! It sometime is integrated into a multi-core radiator as a two or three core in rows of the radiator.
Some hydraulic oil coolers and transmission coolers will have a THERMAL BYPASS (not a thermostat) wherein oil will bypass the cooler in cold weather to reduce pressure in the return side on start-up. If this fails, generally it will split the flow to the cooler and to tank and hydraulic cooling will be partially reduced.
Typically you shouldn't see around 130-150'F as a normal high (depending on the system and ambient temps of course) of a hydraulic system, but there are some that 190-200' is normal but this is an exception unless you live in Arizona or something. ;-) Most importantly, check your book and go by what it says.
At 190 hours, have you already done the first (initial) hydraulic service? Is the right oil being used? Something else to think about is using an approved synthetic oil can reduce operating temps by as much as 20'F in some cases as well as help starting in cold months.
The #1 flaw of my Max is the problem of debris and fodder plugging the grille vents and cooler and radiator. I must stop at least twice while mowing or things will heat into the RED!
I've done all my required maintenance at scheduled hours. Everything is running fine. I just happened to grab the hydraulic arm going to the FEL to support myself standing up and noticed it was extremely hot. I didn't know it hot that hot. It is black and the SC sun was beating on it and I was using the grapple for 30-45 minutes. Thanks for all the extensive responses.
BgMac
New member
The 2555’s and 2565’s are known for “hot” hyd fluid. I have a 2555 and it does very hot even when the radiator fins are clean. The dealer told me Mahinda is looking into it and there may be a resolution soon.
wendlingknives
Member
So I just ran my new to me (has about 400 hours on it) 2555 HST today raking hay. Only time using the hydraulics was occasionally lifting/setting the rake wings when moving fields. Found out very quickly the hydraulic hoses for the loader joystick were hot enough to burn your hand. Not a blister, but still. So I checked the remotes (pump) and they were very hot to the touch as well as were the hydraulic hoses from the remote to the rake (spinning wheel rake if that matters). Is that normal for this tractor to run that hot? I checked the fluid with the little dipstick on the left side of the rear axle. Im assuming thats the only one for trans/hydro fluid? I didnt check the radiator fins, but i will tomorrow when i go out
mikeman1
Silver Member
Yeah, I have a 2017 2555 with over 230 hours or so, its always been that way for me too. i do a lot of grapple work, some bucket, etc. its been a great machine, no issues so far. well escept:
1) The 65b hoe did not have the pressure relief valves..vendor covered bent cylinder and gave me teh valves to install.
2) the most difficult grease fittings is the front center pivot (2 fittings) , so tight wont take grease, you have to lift front end off the ground to get weight off pivot then it will usually take grease.
3) there is a grease fitting on the right side of engine either on the alternator? or something like that, the fan belt goes around it. this was not in the manual.
4) there is a another hydraulic filter of some sort on the rear by the rear remote, it looks like a pipe, i changed it as well at the first oil change when i bought the tractor new even though there was no mention of it in the service section.
1) The 65b hoe did not have the pressure relief valves..vendor covered bent cylinder and gave me teh valves to install.
2) the most difficult grease fittings is the front center pivot (2 fittings) , so tight wont take grease, you have to lift front end off the ground to get weight off pivot then it will usually take grease.
3) there is a grease fitting on the right side of engine either on the alternator? or something like that, the fan belt goes around it. this was not in the manual.
4) there is a another hydraulic filter of some sort on the rear by the rear remote, it looks like a pipe, i changed it as well at the first oil change when i bought the tractor new even though there was no mention of it in the service section.