hydraulic dump trailers
- Thread starter Hillbilly
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Steve_in_Ont
Silver Member
Hillbilly - Take a look at the current thread under "attachments". We have a bit of a conversation going on this topic... I'm also in the market for something, but I can't seem to decide - small & maneuverable, or big &... well... just big!
Here are a few manufactures that I have found in the 3000 - 10000 lbs GVW range:
- Provonost
- EZ Dumper
- Gran Prix
- Normand (from Eastern Farm Machinery)
- Homesteader
- Maxidump
- Dressen Custom Trailer
Good luck!
Here are a few manufactures that I have found in the 3000 - 10000 lbs GVW range:
- Provonost
- EZ Dumper
- Gran Prix
- Normand (from Eastern Farm Machinery)
- Homesteader
- Maxidump
- Dressen Custom Trailer
Good luck!
Charlie_Iliff
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I ordered a Bri-Mar 5000 lb, single axle 5x8' dump trailer. It should be delivered this week, and I will report.
They have a web site. Bri-Mar.com ?
They have a web site. Bri-Mar.com ?
Robert_in_NY
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EZ dumper has an option to upgrade to 14k, mostly stronger ram and heavier axels I think. Kinda hard to put 14k pounds in a trailer unless your hauling stone or gravel.
Charlie_Iliff
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This morning, I picked up a Bri-Mar 508 hydraulic dump trailer. It was $2,395 plus taxes & tags, so on the road for a total of just under $2,600. It is single axle, 5x8 bed, rated at 5000 lb. gross, with electric brakes. There is a similar model rated at 3000 lb., which is less expensive, but I wanted the brakes and additional capacity. The trailer is fairly stoutly built, but not overbuilt, and looks well designed. I tested it by hauling and dumping heaped loads of compost, with between a yard and a half and two yards per load. The electric hydraulic pump handled dumping easily. The compost was fairly dense, with some topsoil, so I probably was getting a ton and a half or so per load. It handled it easily.
For short hauls, I am pushing the trailer backward with my Power Trac 1845. It is easy, and positioning is precise. (Backing the Power Trac, thus pulling the trailer forward, takes some practice with the articulated PT.) Since I drive forward to hitch up, and the ball swings sideways when I turn the wheel, hitching is astonishingly simple. It is easier, I think,than with the rear-steer loaders most commonly used for pushing airplanes. And, since the ball is on the loader plate, I can lift the tongue and shake the trailer with the PT hydraulics to supplement the dump.
So far, I like the Bri-Mar but one day is hardly a career. It was a couple of hundred dollars cheaper than quotes for an EZ Dumper, and seems very similar.
So, I moved a compost pile a couple of hundred yards away from the barn, and stuck the trailer behind the barn where it will be filled with horse manure and sawdust daily. Seems a nasty thing to do to a pretty new piece of equipment.
For short hauls, I am pushing the trailer backward with my Power Trac 1845. It is easy, and positioning is precise. (Backing the Power Trac, thus pulling the trailer forward, takes some practice with the articulated PT.) Since I drive forward to hitch up, and the ball swings sideways when I turn the wheel, hitching is astonishingly simple. It is easier, I think,than with the rear-steer loaders most commonly used for pushing airplanes. And, since the ball is on the loader plate, I can lift the tongue and shake the trailer with the PT hydraulics to supplement the dump.
So far, I like the Bri-Mar but one day is hardly a career. It was a couple of hundred dollars cheaper than quotes for an EZ Dumper, and seems very similar.
So, I moved a compost pile a couple of hundred yards away from the barn, and stuck the trailer behind the barn where it will be filled with horse manure and sawdust daily. Seems a nasty thing to do to a pretty new piece of equipment.
bubenberg
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we have a hydraulic dump trailer for 4 years. dual axle electric brakes on all four wheels. the trailer is rated at 10,000 lbs abd does well behind a 3/4 ton truck.
my experience is the backing-up is as difficult as with a 2 horse trailer. i can back-up our 20 foot mower trailer alot easier then the dump trailer.
the dumptrailer is a great asset to our business and we have less pick-up repairs since we no longer have one with a dump bed. the cops don't pull us over as much to weigh us all the time.
charlie has pretty much said all the other more technical aspects.
my experience is the backing-up is as difficult as with a 2 horse trailer. i can back-up our 20 foot mower trailer alot easier then the dump trailer.
the dumptrailer is a great asset to our business and we have less pick-up repairs since we no longer have one with a dump bed. the cops don't pull us over as much to weigh us all the time.
charlie has pretty much said all the other more technical aspects.
wroughtn_harv
Super Member
I've built a couple of hydraulic dump trailers. The last one was from a twelve foot dump bed off of a long wheelbase 83 chevy one ton. The truck chassis had a pto pump.
What I did was pick up a couple of seven thousand pound torkflex axles with brakes. The reason I like the torkflex is they act independently so if you catch a bump with one side you don't feel it from the back to the front and end to end.
They also come with a longer guarantee than spring assembly types. They're easier to mount. And you can get them where they raise the frame, lower the frame, or carry the frame level. They're just tricker than a pocket on pants.
I built the frame for the trailer out of two by six eleven gauge tubing. I centered the axles where the load wouldn't lift the tow vehicle off the ground when dumping and yet not have so much tongue weight as to make it impossible for anything but a large truck to comfortably tow it.
The bed was a flat bed. So I had to make sides and a tailboard. I made it just like a regular dump bed for a truck. The tail board hinged on the top. This is great for materials like sand and gravel or dirt. It's not worth a doggone on a rainy day for unloading construction debris like from a demo or a remodel.
The hoist was a scissor type. I contacted the manufacturer and picked up their recommended twelve volt pump and resevoir for that assembly.
I paid two fifty for the bed, hoist and frame. I should feel guilty but then I don't do everything I should all the time. It cost eight plus for the reservoir and pump from the manufacturer. I picked up a rebuilt from them and saved about three, just a note for those who think cost is a factor. The axles w/brakes cost me another five to almost six. Four hundred for four ten ply sixteen inch tires that were take offs from a new Ford. Bear in mind, chevy eight hole wheels look the same as Ford or Dodge but the center hole is about an eighth of an inch smaller. They won't fit over ford or dodge hubs or trailer hubs either. The eight holes are all the same. But it's the center hole that gives you the heartache. Before you take out the torch to the center to fix the problem keep in mind that inner ridge is there for a purpose. It severely weakens the wheel when you remove it.
I had about three in the extra steel for the side boards, tail board etc including lights and so on.
It's a great trailer. It tows straight and hauls. I've hauled as much as four yards on it without any trouble at all.
There are a couple of problems with it though. The first is when you have the bed over the wheels, the full eight foot width. You have the deck high enough that loading it with a wheelbarrow and a ramp is out of the question.
When hauling construction trash the great tail board means the big stuff has to be hand unloaded or it jams up at the tailboard and then you have a real problem. Of course the old construction trash solution is the two doors that meet in the middle. They ain't worth a flip when it comes to trying to spread materials with your dump bed.
Some interesting points on dump trailers. First is the obvious about if you aren't comfortable with a trailer to begin with then it's going to be a pain for you to use a dump trailer. The other problem is folks load them wrong. Say like loading it with dirt and figuring that since it's got two foot sides you can fill it up to the top.
That can give you three problems. The first is if your tow vehicle can't get traction and you get into soft stuff you're stuck until you unload right where you are which might be the perfectly most bad place imaginable to unload.
Next you just might have went beyond the capacity of the hoist or even worse the frame of the trailer.
Third is of course the hazard of going out into traffic with an improperly loaded trailer and at fifty miles an hour finding out that your steering wheel is good only as something to hold on to while your pucker string does it's best imitation of a too small bungee cord for the fat lady falling.
I'm building me a new dump trailer. I've taken a twenty foot flat bed gooseneck trailer with fifty two hundred pound axles.
I've removed the deck. I've replaced the axles with new seven thousand pounders with brakes and new ten ply sixteen inch tires.
It had twelve inch I beams for the frame. I've cut down the last eleven feet to only four inch. I've welded four by twelve quarter inch angle to that upper edge the length of the eleven feet.
This is to give me the lower deck height and width I need to put my skid steer there. What's neat about carrying a skid steer is you always back them onto a trailer. The main reason for this is they like to fall over backwards if going up an angle. It's rough on the pocketbook when this happens and even harder on the cardio vascular system. It's also good cause your weight is at the back which means you don't have to be as far forward to balance the weight over the axles of the trailer.
So now you're wondering about the dumping part I guess.
Well, one thing really nice about gooseneck trailers is you can turn them around in places you never could a bumper pull. You can jack knife one where you're actually closer to facing the back of the trailer than the front.
So I figured a side dump. Yup, I'm gonna have a nine foot long and eight feet wide bed front to back that will dump to the side, passenger side even.
With the gooseneck I can dump a load and drive out from it without the wheels ever touching it.
I've never seen one made like that. But heck, that's what I do. I make things. Most of them haven't been made before but that isn't all bad.
Pierce wrecker sales, they've got a good internet site, sells a neat kit for dump beds that would be great for someone making their own dump trailer.
What I did was pick up a couple of seven thousand pound torkflex axles with brakes. The reason I like the torkflex is they act independently so if you catch a bump with one side you don't feel it from the back to the front and end to end.
They also come with a longer guarantee than spring assembly types. They're easier to mount. And you can get them where they raise the frame, lower the frame, or carry the frame level. They're just tricker than a pocket on pants.
I built the frame for the trailer out of two by six eleven gauge tubing. I centered the axles where the load wouldn't lift the tow vehicle off the ground when dumping and yet not have so much tongue weight as to make it impossible for anything but a large truck to comfortably tow it.
The bed was a flat bed. So I had to make sides and a tailboard. I made it just like a regular dump bed for a truck. The tail board hinged on the top. This is great for materials like sand and gravel or dirt. It's not worth a doggone on a rainy day for unloading construction debris like from a demo or a remodel.
The hoist was a scissor type. I contacted the manufacturer and picked up their recommended twelve volt pump and resevoir for that assembly.
I paid two fifty for the bed, hoist and frame. I should feel guilty but then I don't do everything I should all the time. It cost eight plus for the reservoir and pump from the manufacturer. I picked up a rebuilt from them and saved about three, just a note for those who think cost is a factor. The axles w/brakes cost me another five to almost six. Four hundred for four ten ply sixteen inch tires that were take offs from a new Ford. Bear in mind, chevy eight hole wheels look the same as Ford or Dodge but the center hole is about an eighth of an inch smaller. They won't fit over ford or dodge hubs or trailer hubs either. The eight holes are all the same. But it's the center hole that gives you the heartache. Before you take out the torch to the center to fix the problem keep in mind that inner ridge is there for a purpose. It severely weakens the wheel when you remove it.
I had about three in the extra steel for the side boards, tail board etc including lights and so on.
It's a great trailer. It tows straight and hauls. I've hauled as much as four yards on it without any trouble at all.
There are a couple of problems with it though. The first is when you have the bed over the wheels, the full eight foot width. You have the deck high enough that loading it with a wheelbarrow and a ramp is out of the question.
When hauling construction trash the great tail board means the big stuff has to be hand unloaded or it jams up at the tailboard and then you have a real problem. Of course the old construction trash solution is the two doors that meet in the middle. They ain't worth a flip when it comes to trying to spread materials with your dump bed.
Some interesting points on dump trailers. First is the obvious about if you aren't comfortable with a trailer to begin with then it's going to be a pain for you to use a dump trailer. The other problem is folks load them wrong. Say like loading it with dirt and figuring that since it's got two foot sides you can fill it up to the top.
That can give you three problems. The first is if your tow vehicle can't get traction and you get into soft stuff you're stuck until you unload right where you are which might be the perfectly most bad place imaginable to unload.
Next you just might have went beyond the capacity of the hoist or even worse the frame of the trailer.
Third is of course the hazard of going out into traffic with an improperly loaded trailer and at fifty miles an hour finding out that your steering wheel is good only as something to hold on to while your pucker string does it's best imitation of a too small bungee cord for the fat lady falling.
I'm building me a new dump trailer. I've taken a twenty foot flat bed gooseneck trailer with fifty two hundred pound axles.
I've removed the deck. I've replaced the axles with new seven thousand pounders with brakes and new ten ply sixteen inch tires.
It had twelve inch I beams for the frame. I've cut down the last eleven feet to only four inch. I've welded four by twelve quarter inch angle to that upper edge the length of the eleven feet.
This is to give me the lower deck height and width I need to put my skid steer there. What's neat about carrying a skid steer is you always back them onto a trailer. The main reason for this is they like to fall over backwards if going up an angle. It's rough on the pocketbook when this happens and even harder on the cardio vascular system. It's also good cause your weight is at the back which means you don't have to be as far forward to balance the weight over the axles of the trailer.
So now you're wondering about the dumping part I guess.
Well, one thing really nice about gooseneck trailers is you can turn them around in places you never could a bumper pull. You can jack knife one where you're actually closer to facing the back of the trailer than the front.
So I figured a side dump. Yup, I'm gonna have a nine foot long and eight feet wide bed front to back that will dump to the side, passenger side even.
With the gooseneck I can dump a load and drive out from it without the wheels ever touching it.
I've never seen one made like that. But heck, that's what I do. I make things. Most of them haven't been made before but that isn't all bad.
Pierce wrecker sales, they've got a good internet site, sells a neat kit for dump beds that would be great for someone making their own dump trailer.
