Hydraulic Cement

   / Hydraulic Cement #1  

galaxie428

Gold Member
Joined
Apr 28, 2009
Messages
401
Location
Rushville, IN
Tractor
Bobcat CT230
Does anyone have any experience using it? I have a leaky basement, that has a crack all the way down the center of it. With all the rain we have had, the water is coming up through the crack. I have had someone tell me that it would not hold up over time, maybe a year or two.
 
   / Hydraulic Cement #2  
I concur with that statement. Not a permanent fix. Unfortunatly the best method if room permits is to trench around thr foundation, clean the walls, check or install foundation drain tile, waterproof outside walls, lathe, waterproof with tar again, plastic membrane and drainboard after that down to the drain tile. An interior option is to cut the floor and install a gravel sump system. Not a great fix though if you have exposed walls.
 
   / Hydraulic Cement #3  
I agree with the above comments. All the water is doing is taking the path of least resistance. Stick your finger in that hole and it will go on to the next porous entry point. Hydraulic may work in the short term but only treats effect. You need to go after the source.

rimshot
 
   / Hydraulic Cement
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Thanks for the replies.

I have a project over the next couple of weekends to route the rainwater from my downspouts away from the house. Right now, they pretty much drain a couple of feet from the house. The yard is sloped so that helps but I am going to dig some french drains to get the water further away. That is the least expensive option I have to try first.

Any thoughts on how far to get away from the house? My soil is pretty sandy and drains well so if I put 10' of pvc out away from the house and then 10' of sloted pvc, do you think that is far enough? Or, should I go 20' and then 10' of drain pipe? Right run, funds are limited so I don't want to spend more than I have to if it is not needed. On the other hand, I only want to have to do this once.
 
   / Hydraulic Cement #5  
Sounds just like a good start. Instead of dumping into perforated pipe is it possible to go to daylight. In other word given the slope away from your house is helpful you might be able to start your solid pipe carrying the roof wash well away from the house and gutters. dig a trench and if you don't want the pipe visible try to keep it at least 4" below surface so grass can grow. Get the water as far from the basement as possible and dump it towards lower ground.

If that can't work and given the sandy soil you are in go ahead and use the perforated pipe in some gravel wrapping pipe and gravel together in geotextile and let it leach away. If that fails along with your hydraulic crack fill things turn ugly.

best of luck.

rimshot
 
   / Hydraulic Cement
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Instead of dumping into perforated pipe is it possible to go to daylight.

I could do that, my ground slopes enough it would work but I would think that all that water coming out in the spot would start to wash the soil away from there. It would be one more thing to mow around too and I already have enough of those! My thought with the french well was that I would not have to worry about mowing around it and it would be out of sight. I have a BH so I don't think it will be that hard of a job to do.

I talked to the previous home owner today and asked if they put tile in around the perimeter when they built the basement and he said yes but I wonder if is a plugged somewhere or has gotten filled with dirt? He is also old so maybe his memory is not that great and he really don't remember.
 
   / Hydraulic Cement #7  
It is easy to stop a crack in concrete from leaking...you just have to be able to seal it from the (wet) outside...

A slurry of 85% Portland and 15% (very fine) sand applied heavily with a masonry brush will create a water proof barrier...

No sense buying hydraulic cement...
 
   / Hydraulic Cement #8  
here is a temporary solution.

the product site is Thoro - Waterproofing Products

they have products caled water plug, thoroseal and others that can help.

we use them inside swimming pools to stop water leaks.

best perminant fix is to do what i did.

1. trench around basement.
2. after cleaning foundation walls, i ran 2 coats of thoroseal, first one white, the second one Grey.
3. Installed a layer of Bituthane rubber membrane over adhesive
4. Installed 1-1/4" thick insulation board
5. Installed french drain and drainage rock
6. Back-filled foundation.

I have a full 9 foot deep basement. i did this work 14 years ago. never have had any leaks or moisture issues at all.

completely dry...no mold or mildew.

My neighbors all have issues with mold. they went with the cheaper route used here...spray on a layer of tar. how good is that when the concrete cracks.

the main problem with sealing just the inside, the water is still in the wall. rotting the steel in the wall.
 
   / Hydraulic Cement #9  
You might try widening and deepening the crack sufficiently using a Stihl saw or angle grinder for an epoxy repair to take hold then use Hydrostop to waterproof.
 
   / Hydraulic Cement #10  
We ran the gutters the right way, away from the house. Then used hydraulic cement to close any little gaps, and then painted the whole block with drylock. very nice basment now.
 

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